Author Topic: I may never spray clear again! (Read 4073 times)

Randy Ryan · « **on:** June 14, 2013, 05:16:59 PM »

Well the Gladiator debacle is nearing a close. The masking tape adhesive caused my no end of aggravation and even some words I haven't used in years. The KBS clear is great stuff, but the adhesive collected in the color surface caused very bad stippling, like a billion fisheyes. This is when I learned NEVER use Smoothy with KBS paints, it only multiplies the problem 10 fold. So reading up on this stuff they say that it can be brushed with excellent results, yeah right says I. So I intended to clean even more and them try to seal to offending remnant under to butyrate clear then the KBS clear. A little more experimentation confirmed that this was NOT an option and I was once again stuck. So I started sanding but could not go to the color without complete disaster. I scrubbed the entire model with a toothbrush and mineral spirits concentrating on the offending white where the tape had left its glue, bear in mind I have washed this thing about 4 times with both naptha and MS, so this was a last ditch effort to recover this model without a total strip. I semi smoothed the stippled areas and did a test to see if it would not cover without fish eye, IT DID! I did these tests with a foam brush in several areas on the underside. I went back down a couple hours later and my eyes popped, the stuff had flattened out like glass. So right then I decided that come H er H I was going to finish this project, and I was going to apply the clear with a foam brush. What you see is the first and perhaps the only coat it will receive, this is the bottom, the top goes on tomorrow when I can touch it.

Added a couple more shots.

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #1 on:** June 14, 2013, 05:25:52 PM »

Randy that is a beautiful job. I posted on the KBS Diamond clear coat a few months back. It says it does not need to be thinned but you can thin it with Xylene and I did about 80/20 clear to Xylene, used a foam brush and it came out beautiful. The stuff just levels out like glass.

Mike

Randy Powell · « **Reply #2 on:** June 14, 2013, 06:31:54 PM »

A great painter is one that can improvise and adjust.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #3 on:** June 14, 2013, 07:05:08 PM »

Quote from: Randy Powell on June 14, 2013, 06:31:54 PM

A great painter is one that can improvise and adjust.

Thanks my friend, but the fact is I am near the point of abandonment, I don't have another project like this in me.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #4 on:** June 14, 2013, 07:11:33 PM »

Quote from: Mike Griffin on June 14, 2013, 05:25:52 PM

Randy that is a beautiful job. I posted on the KBS Diamond clear coat a few months back. It says it does not need to be thinned but you can thin it with Xylene and I did about 80/20 clear to Xylene, used a foam brush and it came out beautiful. The stuff just levels out like glass.

Mike

Yes Mike I think it was your post that made me decide to try the stuff. I have 2 projects on which to use it, this and a motorcycle. I do have some dust inclusions but I always get that no matter what, n\but in this case I think I will only lightly sand with 4000 and buff it, no mater how shiny, that "wet look" looks unfinished to me!!!! It is thinned about 20% with KBS thinner.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #5 on:** June 14, 2013, 07:16:25 PM »

That was done with a brush??
Great work!!

Marcus

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #6 on:** June 14, 2013, 07:36:22 PM »

Does anyone have an aprox weight per coat yet?

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #7 on:** June 14, 2013, 09:22:45 PM »

Quote from: Clint Ormosen on June 14, 2013, 07:36:22 PM

Does anyone have an aprox weight per coat yet?

I'll let you know.

Clint Ormosen · « **Reply #8 on:** June 14, 2013, 10:13:46 PM »

Quote from: Randy Ryan on June 14, 2013, 09:22:45 PM

I'll let you know.

Awesome, thanks.

Steve Thomas · « **Reply #9 on:** June 15, 2013, 07:48:30 AM »

I wasn't altogether happy with the results I got brushing it on (using a regular brush, not a foam one), but have just tried airbrushing it. With about 30% thinners, it worked beautifully, although obviously you can't afford to be slack about cleaning up the airbrush heads. I also tried rubbing a fully cured section with acetone, and I might as well have been using water for all the impression I made. I'm definitely a fan, so thanks Mike for letting us in on it.

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #10 on:** June 15, 2013, 08:55:40 AM »

Glad it is working for you Steve. I agree with the thinning. I tried using a foam brush without thinning it and it was OK but after thinning it flowed a lot better. The best thing to me is that it is a one part finish.

Mike

Ward Van Duzer · « **Reply #11 on:** June 15, 2013, 12:59:08 PM »

Sounds cool for me! How much does it take to cover a Nobler?

Ward-O

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #12 on:** June 15, 2013, 04:42:51 PM »

I thinned it about 20%, I am going to go over the model with 600 grit and put on a second thinned even more. So far this IS the way to go. I do know however that contrary to their claims of chemical impermeability, Brodak dope thinner WILL attack it and turn it to alligator skin, good thing I'm only using 5% nitro glow fuel!!!!!!

Ward, it seems to go a LONG way, and it better at 50bucks a quart. I'd guess there are at least 4 Nobler's worth in a qt, probably more.

Just did the first coat on the top, now the color's starting to pop!!!

john e. holliday · « **Reply #13 on:** June 16, 2013, 07:35:27 AM »

Like some clear coat paint, doesn't this have a time for total cure. I know Epoxy Clear had a total cure time and my auto clear paint is not really good for about a week or more.

louie klein · « **Reply #14 on:** June 16, 2013, 09:22:29 AM »

Morn'n guys, Happy fathers day! Reading about this KBS application is something I would like to try but being new to it could you tell me who sells it. Thanks ---LOUIE

Dennis Toth · « **Reply #15 on:** June 16, 2013, 10:04:22 AM »

Randy,
This seems like some good clear coat but how does it hold up to raw 10 - 15% nitro fuel? If it blushes under raw fuel then its not any better than dope. Can you do a little test on some scrap that you apply the clear too and dump some raw fuel on it, let us know.

If this doesn't work out I have used Max 2K spray can, two part clear. It is bullet proof and has a very high gloss with no rubbing.

Best, DennisT

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #16 on:** June 16, 2013, 12:33:21 PM »

Here you go Louie

http://www.kbs-coatings.com/diamondfinish-clearcoat.html

Mike

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #17 on:** June 16, 2013, 08:00:17 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on June 16, 2013, 07:35:27 AM

Like some clear coat paint, doesn't this have a time for total cure. I know Epoxy Clear had a total cure time and my auto clear paint is not really good for about a week or more.

You can fly the next day, in 24 hours you can polish, but it is tuff.

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #18 on:** June 16, 2013, 08:01:46 PM »

Quote from: Dennis Toth on June 16, 2013, 10:04:22 AM

Randy,
This seems like some good clear coat but how does it hold up to raw 10 - 15% nitro fuel? If it blushes under raw fuel then its not any better than dope. Can you do a little test on some scrap that you apply the clear too and dump some raw fuel on it, let us know.

If this doesn't work out I have used Max 2K spray can, two part clear. It is bullet proof and has a very high gloss with no rubbing.

Best, DennisT

I'm using this stuff on the recommendation of others here that have used it an report it is BULLET PROOF.

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #19 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:05:21 PM »

Randy...or Mike...have you got any fresh opinions on the weight penalty for using this stuff, or how it holds up to glow fuel?

Steve

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #20 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:46:58 PM »

Steve I put mine on an electric but there is a guy in our club who built a SAKITUMI (spelling ?) and he has a glow engine in it and has been flying it for a couple of years now I guess and i have not heard him say anything about it not holding up.

Mike

Steve Thomas · « **Reply #21 on:** January 31, 2014, 04:41:16 PM »

Hi Steve, I recently tried to strip some KBS off a model, and couldn't make an impression on it with straight acetone. I ended up having to abrade it. I don't think glow fuel should give it any problems, as long as it's applied properly.

After quite a bit of experimentation, I found that actually following the instructions isn't a bad idea

. It doesn't need to be thinned excessively to airbrush it, 2 coats are better than one, and it needs a chance to cure (I'd suggest a couple of weeks to be on the safe side). The second coat also needs to be applied within a few hours of the first, or it'll just bead up and not wet the surface properly. I haven't found the weight penalty excessive - my Vector 40 and Quek Yak-9D came out at 46 and 47 oz respectively after using it.

Steve

Randy Ryan · « **Reply #22 on:** January 31, 2014, 05:07:21 PM »

Well, I guess I just use products sparingly. The Glad weighted 66 OZ in dope. During the refinish I made new LG from 5/32 wire (originally 1/8), heavier wheels and harder pants wood. Some minor repairs and added CF veil which was not on it before, I was purposely trying to add a bit of weight. First weigh-in at a contest 68oz so as far as my case goes it was a complete wash, I think the Dupli-color/KBS finish weighs virtually the same. That said, you could easily got overboard with this stuff. As far as glow fuel goes, its bullet proof. I'll be using the same finish on my new ship soon.