Author Topic: Build threads look fun (Read 59731 times)

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #450 on:** January 02, 2014, 02:59:41 PM »

Apply some dope, lay in a piece and ram it in the corner with the card. Apply another coat of dope. Move on to the next piece and on around. The pieces need to get pretty small going around the leading edge. Don't worry about overlaps- they sand.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #451 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:05:28 PM »

Here's a shot of the first fillet complete.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #452 on:** January 02, 2014, 03:30:43 PM »

Here on the stab. Eventually I'll also lap the canopy with it too.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #453 on:** January 02, 2014, 09:28:17 PM »

A pretty productive few days. All three are in carbon mostly and spackled up. Tomorrow I start sanding.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #454 on:** January 09, 2014, 09:39:09 AM »

Wiky lerks photo. No additional info available.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #455 on:** January 09, 2014, 11:02:44 AM »

Thanks Lauri and yes keep me informed. I'm actually looking at three (at least) different systems right now or some combination of them. I think each of my three new airplanes will have something different. I think electronic will be more reliable but at least with mechanical I won't need to carry batteries. The hardest thing so far to develop is the actual pinch off that works with light activation but enough force. The servo route makes that easier. We'll see.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #456 on:** January 09, 2014, 11:28:20 AM »

Lauri if you don't mind, make me up one of your systems when you get back and send it my way. Gladly pay you whatever. If I understand what you have I could only use it in FAI and not AMA but FAI is where the gremlin is.

Lauri Malila · « **Reply #457 on:** January 09, 2014, 12:23:00 PM »

Ok but I cannot give any estimate when it is ready. I have a new engine coming, hopefully it's ready for Poland.
The electronic parts, receiver & transmitter, you can get from Ken Bauer.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #458 on:** January 09, 2014, 12:57:39 PM »

Sounds good Lauri.. Now I just need contact info for Ken Bauer.....

Lauri Malila · « **Reply #459 on:** January 09, 2014, 01:12:06 PM »

Check his website:

mysite.verizon.net

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #460 on:** January 09, 2014, 01:13:43 PM »

Found it. Thank you!

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #461 on:** January 09, 2014, 01:16:54 PM »

This will really speed up the flight trimming process too.

Lauri Malila · « **Reply #462 on:** January 09, 2014, 02:22:15 PM »

Yes, that's the reason why I use it. When testing our very powerfull engine that has a very low fuel consumption even at rich run. I got bored at flying 13 minutes with 4 sec. laptime when something went wrong. It saves the engine and airframe.
Actually, even when FAI rules allow its use (don't know about AMA), I don't find it so important in competitions. For sure I will use it but I've never really had issues with engine stopping too late (knock-knock..). I will still continue to fill the tank for 6.5 minutes flight, just in case.
There are other benefits than just avoiding overtime, like a possibility to choose the point where the engine stops, it is very usefull in strong wind. Often the engine likes to stop when model flies against the wind and that is not good for landing glide. Also, as the engine does not get the last bubbly fuel in the tank, it will not go lean in the end and stops more quickly. That's also good for landing glide speed.

My clamp is mounted be in the 10mm wide space right between needle valve and tank front end. You can see the mounting holes in the tank mount. I think thats an ideal situation but I don't know what the effect will be when the clamp is further back from the carburetor.
With front intake engine, the device can be bolted in to backplate or mounting lug for example. Receiver, servo and battery are just in front of bellcrank.

RknRusty · « **Reply #463 on:** January 09, 2014, 05:23:22 PM »

Y'all probably already know about it, but since you haven't mentioned Hank Nystrom at Texas Timers.com, maybe he's a useful resource for these types of devices. The only reason I know about his Free Flight site is because that's my source for fine thread needle valves and bladder materials.

Rusty

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #464 on:** January 09, 2014, 05:44:24 PM »

Thank you Rusty! Hank built the unit in my photo and we have been working on the project. Great guy. If I can make this work well Hank might make me a run of purpose-built units. Right now we are plowing ground to see what sprouts.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #465 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:50:49 AM »

Just to show I'm not sitting on my duff thought I'd show the machines are in grey undercoat and today I'm using the spot putty to fix bad spots. Should start spraying white by this afternoon. The grey is just the fourth coat from dry tissue! Light! In the foreground is the Merco Black Streak .35 I found to go in the Warburton Tony I plan to build as a classic project. I'm pretty sure this is the type engine Frank Warburton had in his Criterium winner about 1963.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #466 on:** January 30, 2014, 10:51:22 AM »

RknRusty · « **Reply #467 on:** January 30, 2014, 12:33:03 PM »

Ah, great. Thanks for the update. Just this week I was just thinking about this thread, wondering if we were going to see anymore. I remember you saying you didn't plan to post minute finishing details.
Rusty

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #468 on:** January 30, 2014, 12:47:59 PM »

Ken Bauer's email is: airtek at verizon dot net

I tried the address Lauri posted and only got the home page for Verizon News. And, I applaude your efforts for doing battle within the FAI rules. Timers are legal in AMA stunt regs. But, I would also suggest that with our 8 minute rules that it's relatively easy to get the flight time adjusted by only adjusting fuel load, and it's probably better (IMO) for the lower skill classes not to bother with timers and R/C cutoffs.

As an alternate, there's been some work in the past done on tanks that shut off the engine after too many laps of flying upright. Basically, if you're running an engine that needs 6 oz to do the pattern, you'd get a 7 or 8 oz tank and install a small wedge tank inside. The tank is installed inside the big tank, and has holes arranged in it to allow fuel in, but only in some positions. The feed line and uniflow line would go into the small tank. How big that tank is requires some experimenting, of course. Some calculations would help narrow down the size required for the small tank. One of the benefits of this deal is that you could move the small tank up/down inside the big tank, to adjust your engine run for inside/outside equalization. No, I haven't got it all figured out, and since I have no plan to enter the NATS or fly in the TT's, I don't really need to. But I do like the concept a lot better than adding mechanical or electronic systems. See the two attachments.

Steve

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #469 on:** January 30, 2014, 01:22:25 PM »

Very interesting about the tank Steve. I'm pretty fussy about my tank set up tho and would rather not mess with what is working good at least for me. Actually getting an engine stop within eight minutes for AMA is usually not too hard unless something causes a lean run like trash in the spray bar or a pipe leak. My greatest interest in this is for FAI rules where you get 7 minutes and not one extra second. Here a slight weather change or insect down the tank plumbing ( or a simple error) can ruin a two year program. However it would be nice to short-run during the trimming phase with a new airplane or to shut down when something goes wrong.
I too found that Ken Bauer must have quit. So for now I have a couple other ( unnamed to protect the innocent) sources building autonomous electronic units for me. I also already have a supply of the 2.4 gig radio units built and on hand ready for post-2014. Thank you Nick Leichty. I will say you shouldn't add any complication to your AMA stunt endeavors for this year. You can grow and harvest a crop in 8 minutes. But we'll have to see what develops after that. You can be sure some change is at hand!

Lauri Malila · « **Reply #470 on:** January 30, 2014, 03:26:10 PM »

No, Ken has not quit, maybe his time just is limited because of real work. But for sure he is making the RDT units. I will get new ones next week in Lost Hills.
I recommend sending an email to him.
As I wrote before, the main point is not to stop the engine with a presicion of second. More important is to be able to stop the engine in right place, and also with shut off, the engine stops more quickly and does not kill glide speed. When all is working well, my run times without shut off are same anyway, within a few seconds. L

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #471 on:** January 30, 2014, 03:50:44 PM »

Yes you are right about the stopping points. When you talk to Ken please direct him my way. All efforts to contact him on two web addresses have failed. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. Give him my email.... VegasDave4@gmail.com. Thank you Lauri!

wwwarbird · « **Reply #472 on:** January 30, 2014, 08:38:24 PM »

Looking good Dave!

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #473 on:** January 31, 2014, 09:47:36 AM »

All stop!! Have to strip and recover all three airplanes. I used Lite Flite Plyspan to cover the open bays, light silkspan everywhere else. On just the Plyspan the dope started to delaminate when I started to spray. Very strange. It's fine over the silkspan. It's like the Plyspan was waxed paper. The regular or super Plyspan doesn't do this but has a whole different feel and texture- no slick side. So I recover.

Bill Little · « **Reply #474 on:** January 31, 2014, 10:43:06 AM »

Quote from: Dave_Trible on January 30, 2014, 10:50:49 AM

(snip) In the foreground is the Merco Black Streak .35 I found to go in the Warburton Tony I plan to build as a classic project. I'm pretty sure this is the type engine Frank Warburton had in his Criterium winner about 1963.

Hi Dave,

Actually, Frank used a Red Head Merco from the early '60s. The Black Head is a later model and as you probably know, there have been several owners of "Merco". There were quality issues off and on during the time. The latest Rustler-Merco (Ian Russell, a member here) are excellent engines. The early Red Heads were excellent stunt.35s of the period. A bit more punch than a Fox .35. The Black Heads varied from good stunt engines to unusable engines.

BIG Bear

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #475 on:** January 31, 2014, 11:12:38 AM »

Hi Bill! It was a ( bad) guess on my part. Well, so was the covering. This Merco feels pretty good and doesn't look to be run very much so we'll see. Didn't give too much for it. When I get going on classic I'd like to keep the engines pretty close too. Hard to understand putting a piped whatever in a 60s classic. Sort of lost the point. If this doesn't work I've got a half dozen Enya .35s looking for a job.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #476 on:** January 31, 2014, 11:58:57 AM »

Hey Dave I hope you are painting in a well ventilated room. I don't spray in my shop, I do brushing of dope instead.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #477 on:** January 31, 2014, 12:50:06 PM »

John I don't have anywhere to spray but I have a big box fan blowing out when I dope. It does a pretty good job. I use nothing but an airbrush so the cloud isn't too big anyway. But this is the main reason I have to get these done very soon before the daughter and baby move home. Maybe 4 weeks or less. Think I'll make it? Having to pull the covering back off didn't help. Thank goodness Hobby Haven had a fresh batch of Super Plyspan in. Thought about using the light silkspan I have but it starts splitting when the dope gets really hard and brittle. I've used a lot of the super and like it-just was trying to cut a little weight... Silly me.

Bill Little · « **Reply #478 on:** January 31, 2014, 01:49:56 PM »

Quote from: Dave_Trible on January 31, 2014, 11:12:38 AM

Hi Bill! It was a ( bad) guess on my part. Well, so was the covering. This Merco feels pretty good and doesn't look to be run very much so we'll see. Didn't give too much for it. When I get going on classic I'd like to keep the engines pretty close too. Hard to understand putting a piped whatever in a 60s classic. Sort of lost the point. If this doesn't work I've got a half dozen Enya .35s looking for a job.

Let me know if you want a good Veco .35S. They were about identical with the Red Head Merco. Pretty strong for the "old" engines. It was the strongest of the old USA .35s IMHO. The run of the McCoy .40 was great, but the problems they had made them iffy, or else you bought a "supply" of them so that you wouldn't get caught short.......... this can be "cured" in these days, but not much luck back then.

BIG Bear

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #479 on:** January 31, 2014, 02:32:16 PM »

The Veco sounds interesting Bill. Let me know what you want for it. I have one that I bought to go in the Veco Hurricane kit I found but another would be good. Unless you want to trade something....looking for anything in particular? I'm deep in many engines other than Fox or Tigre.

Serge_Krauss · « **Reply #480 on:** February 01, 2014, 12:13:24 AM »

'sorry, Dave. How aggravating!!!! I admire your perseverance! 'looking forward to eventual success.

SK

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #481 on:** February 01, 2014, 07:15:33 AM »

Thanks Serge. Sure is aggravating. I think this is why I usually stick to old proven ways. However if we don't try something new once in a while....... In this case it's also about finding reasonable alternatives to losing the medium silkspan we always had at the hobby shop. Makes the all- sheeted wing look more attractive though I hate throwing another five or six sheets of wood on the airplane for no reason other than covering space. The heavier Plyspan works well but just soaks up more dope. At least I know it will last and not start popping apart like the last light silkspan job I did. Split wide open while just hanging on the wall. It's also aggavating to have to work all weekend and not get anything done in the shop! Coffee ready yet? Ggrrrr....!

Serge_Krauss · « **Reply #482 on:** February 01, 2014, 09:59:30 AM »

I don't think you have to take a big weight hit with fully sheeted wings, and they're potentially better shaped. However, I don't like the prospects of repairing them after my inevitable mishaps, many of which only tear some silkspan, but would buckle or fracture the skin. I'm still tempted.

SK

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #483 on:** February 01, 2014, 11:38:28 AM »

You know the part about wing shape in regards to full sheet vs. say open bay or I beams might be a great
topic ( should you accept the mission) over in the design board. In our scale I don't think it matters too much. In fact years ago I built mostly I beams and thought I was gaining something with the slight channeling of air flow. Sure know the Werwages and Sheeks of the world liked them. I actually stopped when the women in my life said they didn't like the 'bumps' on my wings- seriously!

Steve Helmick · « **Reply #484 on:** February 02, 2014, 04:05:54 PM »

I tried SIG Plyspan on a FF and didn't like it at all, as I recall. Probably took it back off and used something else.

Time for Mr. Trible to get some Polyspan!

Steve

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #485 on:** February 02, 2014, 04:43:31 PM »

Yes maybe. Don't even know where to get it. Actually I'm intrigued with the Thai silk thread. Haven't used silk in a generation but might do that again. Thinking.....I know it will get brittle and split too but it takes a long time.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #486 on:** February 04, 2014, 12:47:44 PM »

Just making sure I'm not looking at a mis-spell above, are we talking Plyspan or Polyspan? I only use Polyspan and the stuff works great.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #487 on:** February 04, 2014, 01:40:42 PM »

Wayne I'm talking about Sig Plyspan. The super is pretty good, pooh pooh on the Lite Flight. It's not a thinner version of the super. It's something completely different. Covering with super today and looking good.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #488 on:** February 04, 2014, 08:14:46 PM »

Thanks Dave, good to know.

BTW, what did you use to strip the covering?

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #489 on:** February 05, 2014, 07:38:41 AM »

This wasn't too bad on these for a couple reasons. The lite Plyspan is actually pretty tough so I could pull it off in big chunks. Since it is so dense dope never gets all the way through it so when applied, the wood is prepped with dope before hand then the tissue is attached with thinner which will go through. That being true then a simple re-wetting with a brush full of thinner loosened it. There was just four very thin coats of dope on them so the thinner got through in a few seconds. I've done a few and may do a couple more with thick, hardened finishes that required an acetone bath with six rolls of paper towels and a gallon and a half of acetone. Those are nasty but can save an old or heavy airframe.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #490 on:** February 19, 2014, 02:52:04 PM »

Ah the smell of castor......got in the first two patterns for 2014. Flying called due to sleet. FYI, all three new ships are in white base color as of this morning.

MarcusCordeiro · « **Reply #491 on:** February 20, 2014, 06:18:56 AM »

Marcus

john e. holliday · « **Reply #492 on:** February 20, 2014, 04:21:07 PM »

Was it a little muddy? I have pondered on going out too, but wonder about the ground. At the Knorthern Knights field we had to move the center a couple of times one year because of mud. Can we get permission to lay some cement blocks down for a center pad? The ones I put down at the KK field were on close out at the time. I think Tulsa uses a septic tank lid for the center. Also I did not hear my phone ring!!!

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #493 on:** February 20, 2014, 04:49:45 PM »

John about the phone....thought you were still in Texas and wasn't sure if I'd get out of the dentist early enough to even go. Won't happen again! The field was a little soft but do-able. Some mud patches at the center. I'm going to get some grass seed. Still see our oil spots from last year but you still see the mowed line around the circle. I'm not sure about putting something down in the center. I'll talk to Robert, our contact there about it. He actually stopped by here at work to say hello earlier. It is flyable now though weather willing, if you don't mind muddy knees!

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #494 on:** February 26, 2014, 03:21:55 PM »

Igor... New Norden bomb site.

55chevr · « **Reply #495 on:** February 26, 2014, 06:12:40 PM »

I like the idea of a precast concrete septic lid ... Good idea by somebody.

Doug Moon · « **Reply #496 on:** February 26, 2014, 07:48:34 PM »

Quote from: Dave_Trible on February 26, 2014, 03:21:55 PM

Igor... New Norden bomb site.

Dave,

Can you give a little explanation on these guys?

wwwarbird · « **Reply #497 on:** February 26, 2014, 08:41:35 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 20, 2014, 04:21:07 PM

I think Tulsa uses a septic tank lid for the center.

A septic lid for a center circle pad? Ironic.

Dave_Trible · « **Reply #498 on:** February 27, 2014, 06:21:48 AM »

Quote from: Doug Moon on February 26, 2014, 07:48:34 PM

Dave,

Can you give a little explanation on these guys?

Doug I'm not quite ready to give a full run down right now. Still pulling
'Briddled Thunder' together and needed those working on the project on the same page. Just imagine your IC airplane with an accelerometer, idle and shutoff.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #499 on:** February 27, 2014, 08:35:37 AM »

Quote from: 55chevr on February 26, 2014, 06:12:40 PM

I like the idea of a precast concrete septic lid ... Good idea by somebody.

Give credit to Tulsa Gluedobbers.