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Author Topic: Saito .40 carb mod question...  (Read 2402 times)

Offline wwwarbird

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Saito .40 carb mod question...
« on: May 22, 2012, 06:53:38 PM »
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: Saito .40 carb mod question...
« Reply #1 on: May 23, 2012, 01:00:35 AM »
If the replacement barrel was aluminum I would say it was probably one I did but I've never used anything but aluminum. Looks like it should work fine as long as whatever plastic it's made of is stable.

Randy needs to move that thread over to this section...

Offline wwwarbird

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Re: Saito .40 carb mod question...
« Reply #2 on: May 23, 2012, 06:57:10 PM »
 Thanks Bob. H^^
Narrowly averting disaster since 1964! 

Wayne Willey
Albert Lea, MN U.S.A. IC C/L Aircraft Modeler, Ex AMA member

Offline ash

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Re: Saito .40 carb mod question...
« Reply #3 on: May 24, 2012, 07:44:53 PM »
Here's what I did to the carb barrel on my Saito 62CL. They're not a great fit, so leakage is a possibility. I turned a notch into the outside edge and fitted an o-ring to positively seal the barrel. Added an M5 nylon screw as I do to any engine that could benefit from speed regulation and adjustment. And I cut down the spraybar so that it feels from about half-way once the nylon screw is in there partially obstructing the bore.

The thread for the nylon screw is done with a taper (first) tap, but not all the way through. This makes the nylon screw a tight fit, so it will stay where you put it without leaking or winding itself out.

Similar to the famous Bob mods to the RC carb.
Adrian Hamilton - Auckland, NZ.

Offline Bob Reeves

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Re: Saito .40 carb mod question...
« Reply #4 on: May 26, 2012, 07:06:24 AM »
Not sure how famous my mod is but it does work  y1

I just install the barrel with a dab of JB weld to seal it, see no need to ever take it back apart and even if it becomes necessary a little heat will soften the JB weld enough to get the barrel out.

Offline ash

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Re: Saito .40 carb mod question...
« Reply #5 on: May 26, 2012, 07:57:50 AM »
One benefit of the o-ring is that for the break-in phase you can loosen the barrel lock grub screw and turn the barrel to an "idle" position under 4000rpm without having the needle set so rich that it fogs your entire neighbourhood with fuel/oil mist.

I found that the nylon screw wasn't enough to get down to 4000rpm by itself.
Adrian Hamilton - Auckland, NZ.


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