Author Topic: How to ink panel lines? (Read 5777 times)

John Rist · « **on:** January 28, 2012, 05:28:30 PM »

What is the best way to ink panel lines? What type (brand) of ink pin is best? I will be inking on top of a Klass Kote epoxy finish.

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #1 on:** February 02, 2012, 04:54:28 PM »

To simplify it :

Any pen that will write on CD's will work - but will fade over time. You can use plastic rule with tape underneath to prevent bleeding.

I like to airbrush thin dope of the ink lines to secure them for clear.

Rapiodgraph or Indian ink are choice, but expensive.

However TY is offering to show you the ink line ropes - and he knows his stuff.

rob biddle · « **Reply #2 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:19:41 AM »

Hey PJ,

Was your experience with the "cd writable" pens fading under 2 pack clear?

I'm just looking at options for my next project and can't really justify the expense of radiograph pens for a 1-off.

Thanks, Rob.

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #3 on:** February 03, 2012, 05:10:15 AM »

Depends on the 2Pack.

I have used some cheaper Clear in the past with very little UV resistant properties and fading did occur.

Currently I use PPG Global clear and that has VERY high UV protection no fading has occured at all that I can notice..

However for what you pay for PPG Id expect nothing less.

If you cannot justify the expense of Rapiograph pens ( understandable ) then you really wont be able to justify PPG Clear - However depends on what you're after the fading will only occur after 2 years. Food for thought to do it on the cheap.

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #4 on:** February 03, 2012, 08:48:22 AM »

John, For what it's worth, here's a suggestion. As you know Klass Kote is very slick. I have experience with many Klass Kote finished models. I would suggest you sand the area to be inked with 1000 or finer grit sandpaper so the ink will adhere. I have used a raised ruler and a right off the shelf fine line "uniball" or fine line "Sharpie" to ink the lines. Works just fine. Of course, you'll have to shoot a coat of clear over top. Just for info.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #5 on:** February 03, 2012, 10:08:32 AM »

Charles,

This is certainly possible, but very, very tedious and you still don't really get the effect you're looking for with inking. Inking is a skill like any other. I've been using Pigma Micron pens. They use an ink that doesn't seem effected by clear overcoats (lacquer or urethane) or the sun.

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #6 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:12:27 PM »

Randy, I'm not a novice at this. If you haven't tried it, don't knock it.

Randy Powell · « **Reply #7 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:24:03 PM »

Sonny,

I was talking about the idea of taping off and spraying paint for inklines. It can be done, but usually doesn't have the same effect.

Sonny Williams · « **Reply #8 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:33:46 PM »

10/4 Got'cha and I agree.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #9 on:** February 03, 2012, 03:43:39 PM »

Two major problems with spraying a color then taping ink lines, then spraying again,,
#1, there really isnt any tape thin enough to get the effect
#2, by definition panel lines are a dark color, then you spray a light color over it, so you have one complete coat of dark, followed by several coats of light to cover. Lots of weight build up there

while It is an interesting idea, its not practical to meet the intended GOALs
The Pigma Micron pens are very reliable and repeatable. They are sized just like rapidograph pens are, but they are less money, and when they "clog" you just chuck them and get a replacement,,

Lauri Malila · « **Reply #10 on:** February 03, 2012, 04:52:28 PM »

Hi.

I'm happy with my inklines. I use Rotring Isograph (The one with re-fillable ink reservoir, it seems that in US those are sold also with name "Rapidograph"). In Europe, the Rapidographs have a single use ink cartridge. please correct me if I'm wrong.
For ink, I use Rotring (or similar) ink, which is ment for Mylar drawing film. Also "normal" ink does work, but it's very, very fragile before clearcoat.
You can help the adhesion and surface tension problems by mixing a tiny amount of dishwasher detergent with the ink. A tiny amount means that you just dip the tip of a pin into detergent and then mix it into the ink reservoir.
I've never tried to rub the painted surface with talc to improve adhesion but I understand the idea. Instead of that, I work very slowly and I'm very patient.
After all lines are done, I spray every line with a narrow spray with an airbrush, twice. I think it's good, especially if you're going to wet-sand and rub the plane, but it's not absolutely necessary. I do it because I must shoot the clear quite far from home and the parts are much easier to pack into my car.

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #11 on:** February 03, 2012, 06:10:32 PM »

Why would you bother attempting to tape up ink lines.. GOD.. how teadious would that be?

I've seen Lauri's ink work.. its pretty impressive.

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #12 on:** February 03, 2012, 07:11:50 PM »

A:jet : " Or what if an older modeler had the shakes and couldn't work with a pen?"

Use a ruler.

Howard Rush · « **Reply #13 on:** February 03, 2012, 07:24:15 PM »

The shakes might be useful with a Rapidograph to keep the ink flowing. On the other hand, you could stir a can of paint just by holding it. So I guess they'd work for you either way.

PJ Rowland · « **Reply #14 on:** February 03, 2012, 09:45:34 PM »

Howard : Now thats funny.. I just didnt want to go there

rob biddle · « **Reply #15 on:** February 04, 2012, 12:56:27 AM »

Thanks gents,

PJ, I'm fortunate to have a mate who does high end muscle car restos for a living, Gt falcons, Hk monaros and the like.

I've done a lot of sheetmetal repair work for him as his working space is limited and his specialty is predominantly paint, the beauty of which is he that uses ppg 2k products fairly exclusively and I can get a lot of basecoat and clear leftovers from previous jobs.

I'd be happy if the finish served me for close to 2 years. Work commitments don't allow enough weekends off to be competing but I still get plenty of flying time during the week.

Cheers, Rob.

Tom Strom · « **Reply #16 on:** March 28, 2012, 04:06:27 PM »

Mark and Randy, what size number on the pens you use? What colors have you used, if any, besides black? Inquiring minds want to know.

Tom

Derek Barry · « **Reply #17 on:** April 02, 2012, 08:32:33 AM »

Here is what I use, I have the whole set but these are my most used sizes.

Derek

John Desrosiers · « **Reply #18 on:** April 02, 2012, 09:06:44 AM »

Has enyone tried Top Flite panel line pen?

Tom Strom · « **Reply #19 on:** April 02, 2012, 01:03:08 PM »

Thanks Derek. That's perfect.

Tom

Derek Barry · « **Reply #20 on:** April 02, 2012, 02:05:51 PM »

Quote from: Tom Strom on April 02, 2012, 01:03:08 PM

Thanks Derek. That's perfect.

Tom

No problem, if you have any more questions feel free to ask. I have been using these pens for a long time and if you take care of them they will last forever.

Derek

Derek Barry · « **Reply #21 on:** April 02, 2012, 02:13:38 PM »

Some of my recent work. The panel lines are the biggest pen (red) the rivits and the small boxes are the medium pen (grey) and the cracks are the very fine pen (tan).

Derek

RandySmith · « **Reply #22 on:** April 02, 2012, 02:18:52 PM »

Quote from: Derek Barry on April 02, 2012, 02:13:38 PM

Some of my recent work. The panel lines are the biggest pen (red) the rivits and the small boxes are the medium pen (grey) and the cracks are the very fine pen (tan).

Derek

WOW that looks like an very very ***old*** Dreadnought Stab/elev. sure ya wanna fly something that is deteriorating so badly

Derek Barry · « **Reply #23 on:** April 02, 2012, 02:30:40 PM »

Quote from: RandySmith on April 02, 2012, 02:18:52 PM

WOW that looks like an very very ***old*** Dreadnought Stab/elev. sure ya wanna fly something that is deteriorating so badly

Bill Little · « **Reply #24 on:** April 02, 2012, 02:57:32 PM »

Yeah, Derek, what Randy says! You can just send up this way and I will do the repairs and fly it. Don't want anything bad happening to it!

RandySmith · « **Reply #25 on:** April 02, 2012, 03:34:47 PM »

Better open the access panels and check the wing spar too !!! :-O