Klasskote Again

[Ron King]

Folks,

Here is the new bird. It came out a little heavy (67 ounces), but that was because I originally built it for the big 75 engines. I remember Dirty Dan writing about "Over-engineering" (or out-thinking) ourselves in one of his early Stunt News columns and I'm afraid that's what I did.

Anyway - the plane actually flies better than I thought it would. The PA 65 is more than enough power and I think it will actually be competitive next season.

The finish is 100 percent Klasskote over silkspan and nitrate dope. The Klasskote epoxy sprays very well, covers like gangbusters, and is just as easy to handle as dope or lacquer. I took Dave Platt's advice and used Satin catalyst for everything until the final clear coat. The satin color coats were easy to sand (I use 1500 - 2000 to knock off the masking edges) and the gloss clear really sparkles.

After using the epoxy clear, I'm not going back to dope or urethane. 

Later,

Ron

[Greg L Bahrman]

Really Beautiful Ron... Whats the point of using the Satin Catalyst ?
Thanks

[Ron King]

Really Beautiful Ron... Whats the point of using the Satin Catalyst ?
Thanks

Greg,

It sets up quicker, sands easier, and doesn't build up weight as fast.

I'll admit, it doesn't look as good - until you put on that clear coat. Then it really sparkles. 

I also went back and used some of the leftover clear on one of my butyrate ships. The Klasskote went right over the top with no problems (I didn't expect any) and brought the shine right back to my little classic Oriental. (More pictures coming soon.)

Ron

[Bill Little]

I gotta get some Klasscoat.  This winter looks like a good time to sgtart using it!

Bill <><

[Ron Merrill]

Question, i like to use an airbrush to fuelproof engine compartment with, can Klasskote be thinned enough to airbrush? Ron. 

[Ron King]

Question, i like to use an airbrush to fuelproof engine compartment with, can Klasskote be thinned enough to airbrush? Ron. 

Klasskote handles just like dope or lacquer. I use a Badger 400 single action airbrush for the big areas and the Badger 150 IL double action for the canopy frosting and assorted touch ups.

The airbrush can still be cleaned with the cheap hardware store lacquer thinner; saving the expensive reducer and/or Dupont thinner for painting.

Another point to consider: since this paint is really just epoxy glue with color, I have been able to airbrush dope (lacquer) over Klasskote with no problem and have been able to spray Klasskote over dope with no problem.

The key thing to remember with this stuff is - A LITTLE GOES A LONG WAY. I mixed up three ounces of clear, plus the three ounces of catalyst. After this mix set for 20 minutes (following the directions), I thinned it 1:1 with Reducer and started spraying. This 12 ounce total mix was way too much for a 700 square inch plane. After I clear coated the new Alouette, I started running around the basement looking for more planes to paint. 

I figure a Classic plane could be done with 1.5 ounces each and my next full size stunter could be done with 2 ounces each. The stuff is expensive if you figure it by gallon costs.

Ron

[Ron Merrill]

Thanks Ron, being epoxy, wasn't sure i could thin it enough. I use Powermaster 20/20. Ron.

[Ron Merrill]

Ron, sorry brain fade I mean thin enough to airbrush and still be fuelproof using Powermaster 20/20. Ron 

[Dick Fowler]

Hey Ron, a quick question. How long after application before it's no longer tacky? I remember using Hobby-Poxy and while it gave a great finish it required some effort to keep any dust or particles from imbedding in the paint before it "cured up". If I recall it was about four hours before dust wouldn't stick.

[Ron King]

Hey Ron, a quick question. How long after application before it's no longer tacky? I remember using Hobby-Poxy and while it gave a great finish it required some effort to keep any dust or particles from embedding in the paint before it "cured up". If I recall it was about four hours before dust wouldn't stick.

Yes, I also remember the old Hobbypoxy days. Clean the model thoroughly, use a tack cloth, require everyone in the house to leave for the day - then come back a few hours later to find dust particles stuck in the finish. Ugh. 

That's the secret for using Satin Catalyst with Klasskote.    If you use satin catalyst, you can actually see the coat of paint "flash over" (go dull) within minutes. This minimizes any dust pick up while you are applying colors.

For the clear coat: If you apply it gingerly (one light dust coat, followed 3 - 5 minutes later with another slightly heavier coat), the clear coat is tack free within an hour and it doesn't seem to have that molecular attraction for dust particles. I would not handle it for another couple of hours and typically just "go away" from the shop for the rest of the day.

Take care,

Ron

[Don Kirmess]

  Hi Ron

I got this from the Klass Kote web site "If Klass Kote Reducer is unavalible use a high-grade lacqure thinner formulated to reduce epoxies" Did you use the Klass Kote Reducer or did you use some other reducer and if so which one?
  The paint itself isn't too bad price wise but I was wondering if a cheaper but equally effective reducer is on the market somewhere?

Don Kirmess

[Ron King]

Don,

I used Klasskote reducer for my first efforts. We are only dealing with ounces here, because I'm just thinning the paint for spraying. Primer, white, blue, red, and clear - I used about 20 ounces for the whole plane (704 square inches). Now that I have learned just how well this stuff covers, the next big plane might take even less.

I have two gallons of Dupont 3608S lacquer thinner left over from my butyrate dope paint collection, but have not tried them yet with the epoxy. Maybe I'll try this when I refinish one of the older birds this winter. I'll let you know.

I use Ace Hardware lacquer thinner for all clean up. It's the cheaper stuff.

Ron