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Author Topic: Sig Koverall  (Read 1651 times)
David M Johnson
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« on: September 30, 2011, 08:36:22 PM »

The instructions call for Nitrate dope has anyone used Butrate dope or Balsa rite to hold it down?
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kenneth cook
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« Reply #1 on: October 01, 2011, 05:19:23 AM »

          David, the problem with using synthetics is that butyrate dopes don't adhere to it well. I've done it, it worked and I also had a failure doing it one time. The clear coats actually shed like a sheet from the material. One thing to remember about nitrate is it is probably the most universal base for most paints. Therefore having this product on hand or having extra isn't a bad thing. Nitrate works with  laquers, enamels, water based as well. This is assuming you let it gas off properly.  You can apply the adhesion coats with nitrate then switch to butyrate. Remember nitrate first than butyrate, never the other way around or it will crinkle and alligator. I use it extensively with Koverall due to the finish I use afterwards which is Nelson water based polyurethanes. I do know that nitrate seems to be sanded at a quicker rate than butyrate. This is a real advantage when using Koverall. I don't sand Koverall when using it. I use Scotch Brite pads and scuff it down which really works well giving you a great finish and no tears in the weave which is easily done and impossible to repair. Yes, you can use Balsa Rite but it has to be the formula for fabric and not for film. Sig makes their version which is Stix-It. For a first time user of this product, I would highly recommend them. They do add  weight. I find that the dope installation works better myself. Just remember once you install the bottom wing panel your left with no dope on the overlap areas for the top wing panel.  This just means you have to either use the adhesive or dope on all the overlap areas prior to installing the top panel. Koverall is very durable, stays tight and can be easily twisted to straighten a wing with a heat gun afterwards. Use a sharp knife to cut it. The little frays can be a real pain in the !@#$. These can be removed after a few coats of dope and some light sanding will clean the fuzzies up. Ken
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Fred Cronenwett
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« Reply #2 on: October 01, 2011, 06:29:25 AM »

I have always used Nitrate dope with Koverall. Ken is right about the edges, it always made sure the edges had 1 or 2 coats of dope before I cut the edges, works much better that way.

Fred C.
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David M Johnson
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« Reply #3 on: October 01, 2011, 07:22:11 AM »

Thanks for the reply's I have dope but it's all butyrate and I have Balsa Rite but not sure which formula.  The LHS seem to carry some stuff but its hit and miss.  I just needed to know whats compatible with what.
Thanks again
David Johnson   
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john e. holliday
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« Reply #4 on: October 01, 2011, 05:19:25 PM »

The problem people don't realize is that you need several coats of dope on the areas to be covered.   Sanded smooth after every other coat.  When the dope gets a slight sheen to it, then I put the covering on.  The dope has to be thin to get thru the covering.  Almost like water for me.  And yes sometimes you have to recoat the areas of over lap before putting another layer on.   
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« Reply #5 on: October 03, 2011, 03:03:07 PM »

I have used Balsa Lock with great results to adhere Sig Koverall.  It is water based no odor.  Use like Balsarite.  Paint it on the wood, let dry and iron down the fabric.  I have used nitrate to fill with then applied dope, automotive paints, and Nelson water based paints all with great results.  I really like the way Koverall goes down but becarefull with heat settings as it can turn a wing into a banana if not careful.
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Paul Wood
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« Reply #6 on: October 03, 2011, 04:24:03 PM »

David,

I've used Koverall for years on my R/C planes and on a couple of C/L's.  I have always used the film formula Balsa Rite to attach it with good results.  I use two coats of the Balsa Rite.  The first coat will soak into the wood and not allow the Koverall to attach well.  You can certainly use the fabric formula, but the can I got from the hobby store was so thick it was a pain to use.  I don't know if it is formulated that thick, or if it was just a bad batch.  Regarding shrinking the fabric.  Never use a heat gun.  You cannot control the heat and it is easy to over shrink and ruin the panel.  Use a heat iron.  I normally use 250 degrees, but have actually used 300 degrees to shink trouble spots.  Did not melt the fabric.

Paul
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David M Johnson
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« Reply #7 on: October 04, 2011, 01:54:21 PM »

Ok Sig coverall with Balsarite works so far as I can tell.  I have Balsarite fabric formula which is very thick I thinned it down with straight acetone with good results the mixture is thin enough to brush on and using a iron I was able to adhere the coverall very easily. brushing on around the edges to stick down the top covering was very straight forward and using a low heat setting I was able to cover the top and bottom of the wing with no troubles.
Thank you all for your input and experiences.  I would have been lost without your input.
David Johnson 
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