Glenn, it's just the tight bends through the locking plate. I wouldn't try adjusting while flying but I'm told it works. However, as the drawing specifies, it's important to remove all the burrs from the holes in the locking plate so sharp edges do not cut the fine strands of the cable.
Also, it's important for the cable to be reasonably soft. I have a bicycle brake cable that is way too hard and springy. It will not bend through the locking plate.
And the earthing plate, Marvin insists that is is important—but I don't know about a tinfoil hat.
As some have noted here, they have been zapped. I've never heard of an instance where I fly in Sydney. There may have been one or two, but I don't know anybody that earths their handles.
One other issue. Marvin glues on the very back piece of 1/16" ply—the one with the little slot for the cable. This means that to replace the cable, you need to cut the piece off. I have been playing around with 4 small countersunk head wood screws which I think will work. I'm also trying some 5/16" thick clear pine for the sides. I don't know whether the pine will stand up to the side loads but they should not be very high and I think that, with ply through the core, it will be fine. The only advantage is a couple less pieces.
Cheers, Geoff