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 on: Yesterday at 06:08:33 AM 
Started by Shug Emery - Last post by Shug Emery
Thanks Shug for the info.Now I don't feel so bad that mine is 74oz.
They feel heavy but it still seems to fly well. The Enya has developed good power.

 on: Yesterday at 06:05:17 AM 
Started by Allenayres - Last post by Jim Roselle
I have a Fox .35 that I was able to purchase for $5 because it was seized. I submersed it in fuel for a week, cleaned with a rag, mounted it on a model and went flying. Runs great, just saying.


 on: Yesterday at 06:01:07 AM 
Started by Steve Berry - Last post by Avaiojet
I still intend to vacuum bag a wing, fuse and tail for a stunter...
I'll core out the wing panels on the second one. First will be a trial run and proof of concept with a solid core wing and external bellcrank.
MGS Epoxy or bust.

Does anyone know if simple Krylon paint used with MGS will hold up to glow fuel?
If not, electric is my friend. It's my friend anyway, but it would be even more so.



Would you be sheeting with CF?

Regardless of the sheeting material, afterwards, there's no reason you cannot hot wire out the inside possibly leaving a vertical foam spar. Or two.

I have a foam wings in the works for my biplane stunt pusher, model has no name yet.

The wings will have a 1/8" vertical spar at the high point of the airfoil from the root to the tip. This means the entire front of the foam wing will have to be removed and replaced for the spar.

When this wing is sheeted, the inside will be hot wired and hollowed leaving a vertical foam spar forward of the trailing edge.

Others have built foam wings this way with success so it's not something I made up.

Keep in mind I'm sheeting with 1/16" balsa, not CF and I will not be vacuum bagging.


 on: Yesterday at 05:08:03 AM 
Started by Shug Emery - Last post by Steve Thomas
I've got the ABC RE version of the 61CX in a 63 oz model, and it uses only 4 1/4 oz, much like Shug's. (5/11/11 fuel, 12.5x4.5 3B Eather prop). Great engine - I couldn't be happier with it.

 on: Yesterday at 04:39:50 AM 
Started by Skip Chernoff - Last post by Skip Chernoff
Randy,thanks so much for your response,much appreciated.PhillySkip

 on: Yesterday at 03:57:02 AM 
Started by Crist Rigotti - Last post by Don Coe
Ultra Hobby Gieseke Nobler Component Kit converted to electric.
Arrowind 2820/07 motor
Arrowind 40A ESC
FM-Oc Rem Hubin Timer
4 Cell 3300 mAh battery
Graphics by Avaiojet

 on: Yesterday at 03:30:23 AM 
Started by Don Coe - Last post by Don Coe
Hats off to Charles for the fine graphics on my Nobler.  Wanted something clean simple and Charles came through.   Hoff

 on: Yesterday at 03:07:15 AM 
Started by Allenayres - Last post by kenneth cook
              A heat gun will free the engine up which is frozen most likely due to castor oil solidifying. Concentrate on the conrod and make certain it's not frozen on the wrist pin. Heat gun, gloves,  penetrating oil and a allen key is what your going to need to free it up. Spray the penetrating oil into the underside of the piston holding it upside down. Heat the top of the rod with the heat gun obviously holding the engine with gloves and heat until the oil is beginning to smoke. You should be able to get the allen key behind the rod and carefully pry it away from the crank web. Push it back in and repeat this process several times until it's freely sliding. Taking apart the Fox can be a bit troublesome if your not familiar with doing so. Nothing indexes the cylinder so it's critical to mark the cylinder to the case with a witness mark prior to taking it apart. Many times the sleeve goes back in and the installer not knowing puts it in backwards. The cork backplate gasket is more than likely going to be need of replacement and these are becoming a bit more difficult to source due to Fox exiting their engine manufacturing. Permatex makes a product anaerobic gasket maker and it comes in a very small tube about 1.5 " long which costs less than $7. It works terrific for this application and there's enough in there to last a long time afterwards . Unlike RTV, this material doesn't harden in the tube and has good shelf life.

           I've found the 40th anniversary case Fox's to work very well aside from the muffler ears which are extremely fragile. If you can source a gasket kit, you will receive allen cap screws for the entire engine (minus the muffler attachment screws) , a case gasket and a head gasket. Brett's comment are very correct and the circlips as he suggests deserve a lot of attention if the engine needs to be fully dismantled. I personally would avoid the area all together. Even twisting the wrist pin within the piston can cause the circlip to disengage. When this clip departs, it typically happens when the engine is running. To avoid incident, I would not take these out or even play with it unless it's absolutely needed and if your not familiar with it's construction.

 on: Yesterday at 03:00:32 AM 
Started by Bill Morell - Last post by Bill Morell
Juno sold to Jim Oliver.

 on: Yesterday at 02:11:35 AM 
Started by #Liner - Last post by #Liner

When is a good time to call you>?


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