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 51 
 on: Yesterday at 02:58:34 PM 
Started by Matt Piatkowski - Last post by Dane Martin
You can get them here for go-ped exhausts.
http://www.davesmotors.com/

Also, OS makes them, but I don't know the part number

 52 
 on: Yesterday at 02:56:00 PM 
Started by Jim Damerell - Last post by Dane Martin
I got a very close to full one right here. Its pretty old

 53 
 on: Yesterday at 02:55:56 PM 
Started by bob whitney - Last post by bob whitney


  i have a chance to pick up a NJB FP 40 wih U/C venturi  will it make a good stunt engine??

 54 
 on: Yesterday at 02:49:08 PM 
Started by Dane Martin - Last post by Dane Martin
Sorry for the delayed response, and thank you for the replies. My phone broke, just got a new one.
Tim, scratch the fuel resistance issue, I realized its where my paint had terminated and the fuel got under the paint from inside the bladder compartment.

Second note would be, I do not plan on using rustoleum clear, as I've had no good experiences.

 The reason for the clear is after the paint, on some planes I like to add decals, and then clear over that. Any thoughts? I have a friend with automotive clear who will do it for me.

 55 
 on: Yesterday at 02:26:13 PM 
Started by Jim Damerell - Last post by Avaiojet
Jim,

Crazy as it sounds, there's this guy that sells old jars of dope on ebay from time to time. You might get lucky.

No, I've never been tempted.  Layingdown


 56 
 on: Yesterday at 02:20:12 PM 
Started by john e. holliday - Last post by Avaiojet
Yes, lids that stick can be an issue. 

As a life long professional sign painter, pinstriper AND a life long professional airbrush artist, I can honestly say "Iíve never had an issue with lids."  Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown

Simple, just keep paint out of that can lid valley. Sounds easy I know.

Last thing I would need on the job, is to have a can of paint be hard or form a dry crust that would give me an issue OR to have a lid give me trouble. Dispicable lids.  Layingdown

Some sign guys actually kept their paint can inventory placed up side down to prevent that dry layer from forming. I never did.

I never pored paint from the can unless I knew I would use all of it then toss the can or I made sure I cleaned the can lid valley thoroughly.  Grin

Time was always an issue and so was using product. Wasted paint is costly and a no no. The cost of One Shot sign paint has now gone through the roof!  Head bang

Probably because thereís not as many professional sign painters as there once was. Pinstripers either for that matter. Vinyl sign guys killed it.  Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown

I managed to get most of my paint products for free from the Auto Body shops which I did work in. Those that had paint systems were a dream. Didnít have that early on.

Didnít have U-Tube either.  Because of U-Tube, you can pretend you know a lot when you actually don't.  Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown

Popsicle sticks were a good tool to remove paint from the can.  Dip the stick in then drag it, both sides, against the edge of the cups used in sign painting or for airbrushing, Pour the paint from the cup. Toss the cup.

Spraying, for large areas, can be a bit different, in that a stick may not be the best item to remove paint from the can, could take forever. Sooooooo, we simply cleaned the can lid valley with paper towels, doesnít take long AND then the lid easily goes in place AND is easily removed the next time that can or color is used. Just like new!

Look Ma, no gluie paint in the can lid valley! 

I picked up really good, excellent in fact, sign painting, pinstriping, and airbrushing tricks/skills, plus great job sight management habits, from some of the most generous and talented sign guys that were around back then when I started.

I actually shared work with many of these talented guys. You learn by sharing and I never considered another fellow sign painter a threat. The contrary actually.  n1

True professionals beyond belief.  Hoff

Much has changed.

 57 
 on: Yesterday at 02:15:23 PM 
Started by Chris Berardi - Last post by Chris Berardi
Howdy,
Well actually I need a larger size CL motor. I would like to fly a TRex or Legacy and so need a motor suitable for those models. I'm assuming a 50-60 size motor and was thinking of a PA or perhaps an Enya. But, as engines seem hard to come by now I don't seem to have a lot of choice.
I'm not in a rush, so I'm willing to wait for something on back-order.

Chris


 58 
 on: Yesterday at 01:23:42 PM 
Started by Jim Damerell - Last post by Jim Damerell
The older, the better. Needed by modeler to restore historically significant classic model. Post here, or e mail at jimdamerell@msn.com, open containers welcome.

 59 
 on: Yesterday at 01:02:32 PM 
Started by JIM Nordin - Last post by Bill Smith
Brodak .25 on an S-1.
Flies great.
Fancy Pants is also great.

 60 
 on: Yesterday at 01:01:11 PM 
Started by Tom Schwartz - Last post by Carl Cisneros
Bill

ME likey

very tidey and looks easy to deal with

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