Hello All:

        In preparation for my first Ringmaster Fly-A-Thon, I have decided to enter two Ringmasters.  One is an Imperial with a Tom Lay .35 converted to a .40 and the other is a very nice Ringmaster Jr. powered by a Cub .19.

       My questions are as follows re. the Ringmaster Jr.:

       What size of lines would work well with this combination in both diameter and length.  I think that I flew a Ringmaster Jr. powered by a Cub .14 many years ago.  It had short lines and was less than spectacular in flight performance. I think that the prop was a 8x4.  The engine would only operate in a 2 cycle and did not care to maneuver! The plane barely stayed at the end of the lines.

       What size prop  would work well for this application? 

       This engine is probably new as I can not remember running any Cub .19. It was in my junk drawer and fit the already built Jr. mounts and tank installation perfectly.   It started on the first flip but the run was a bit ragged.  Perhaps it needs to be broken in a bit more.  When this engine was evaluated in a magazine in 1953, it had been run for 1.5 hours prior to being tested.  Most of the engines tested at that time were also run for about an hour and a half prior to being tested. Is this much running needed!  My neighbors will really love to heat me breaking in another engine. Lol

       Any suggestions or comments?

                                                                                                                           Tia,

                                                                                                                           Frank McCune

This Saturday!

There is vibration in the nose. You need to add another layer of balsa to the tank floor and glue it well. I've had this problem many times. Put some thin strips of foam rubber around the tank.

The fellas say it was a standard Brodak uniflow tank. I started a new thread from this one http://stunthanger.com/smf/open-forum/good-times-bad-times/

LA 46, has a filter, Omega 10% with a cup of castor added to a gallon.  It probably is foaming the way it's running erratic on the ground. I just left it mounted the way it was, just wedged in with blocks. How do you guys mount them inside the body?

I say a Brodak 40 or Aerotiger 36. Both are lightweight and powerful.

Jim missed you @Tulsa but completely understand ,children and great cars don't come along every day!

I had one back in 72. It is smaller than the actual Slylark Ed designed, but that was so it would fit in the box. Postal rules then.  Being smaller  and having built and flown the full size Skylark, I think they are heavy for their size, but then I was living a 6,000' ASL. Build it light, or finish it light. The .40 is a good choice for that model.I used the ubiquitous Fox .35. Let's not go there.

Alex nice to meet you to meet you and your wife at the Tulsa contest, good luck with your ringmaster your in good hands with John and Dave with that kind of experience around you will be flying in no time, both these guys are good people!

Check the installation of the stab. See it it has positive or negative incidence.  Is the engine level or does it have up thrust? It only takes about 1/2 degree to drive you nuts. Been there done that. Is the wing in properly? Up thrust or down incidence of the wing can be a hunter as well. Might be best to just buy a new kit and build your own T-Bird.  Buy, beg, borrow or steal three incidence meters and use them. May be revealing, or not.

Remind me to tell you the story about Amelia Earhart and my Mom and Amelia's Autogyro broken down in Battle Mountain Nevada in the late 20's. funny story.