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I studied the German language in high school, and then spent 2+years there in the air force. That is pretty much what I heard everyday from the German nationals that we worked  with. Both sides of my family came from der Vaterland, NO complaints from me!!

Photos?

The Sig kit Has the Plastic top deck,air scoop and engine cowl.Not fuse sides. They are all easy fixes with balsa if you chose that option. It is also easy to work with. No need to shy away from it.
Also like Leester. I have the Richards Mustang. But not for sale..
 The House of balsa kits great for C/L scale. Not for stunters.

What is here on earth has always been here (except space junk) it will always remain here. Everyone is part of everything and when you pass you shall return to where it started. (just my thought)

I did not start this forum to be aggravated. I started this forum to show building techniques if you have something to show us besides your attitude please do. I can guarantee this on this forum my attitude will trump yours.

I've been using Cool Power gold castor recently and it works great. Still readily available as far as I know.only thing is it's not degummed so a squirt of CRC or WD40 is ideal if the engine isn't to be used for some time to prevent gumming up.

Got my Brodak ARF Oriental and have two motors i could use: LA46 and Brodak 40. Which is better...for this plane?

The easiest way is to call them and they will get the correct bearing to you. Second option is to go to their website and look up the bearing by engine make and model. They have a pretty good chart. Third option is to measure the bearing you have and either find it in their charts or call them. They are friendly guys and very willing to help with information and options on grades/class of bearing, materials and technical specs.

Best,      DennisT

Reads more Swedish...like the chef from the Muppets!

Phil