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 on: Yesterday at 01:34:06 PM 
Started by John Fitzgerald - Last post by John Stiles
This is also my solution..  Like being able to stick one finger through the center and use a finger on the other hand to reel in the lines. Besides have no idea what a pool noodle is.
Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown Layingdown

 on: Yesterday at 01:33:24 PM 
Started by Mike Griffin - Last post by SteveMoon
Larry's control system was called the Expo-crank. There was a lengthy
article in SN many years ago explaining it. I always thought it was a
nice system that made good sense, but maybe a bit complicated.

Anyway, I've always liked the Mo Best and would definitely be interested
in a kit.

Thanks, Steve

 on: Yesterday at 01:32:42 PM 
Started by bill rutherford - Last post by frank williams
Go to Home Depot.  Go to the metal bin that has sheet metal, aluminum rods and extrusions. steel rods and stuff.  They have a 1/8 steel rod that isn't piano wire and is tweekable.  Plenty firm enough for horns.

 on: Yesterday at 01:30:09 PM 
Started by Steve Fitton - Last post by SteveMoon
Ha ha ha! Obama's NASA!!

Laaaaaaaaaaaaater, Steve

 on: Yesterday at 01:29:14 PM 
Started by Randy Cuberly - Last post by SteveMoon
Try this website:

There are several different B-25 laser cut kits for RC listed there,
both full and short kits. Shouldn't be too difficult at all to convert
to CL Scale.


 on: Yesterday at 12:59:06 PM 
Started by phil c - Last post by big ron
How much if any weight on outboard wing

 on: Yesterday at 12:54:31 PM 
Started by Avaiojet - Last post by Clint Ormosen
Well, here's hoping.  Coffee

Just do a straight forward build. No screwball control mechanisms. Use modern hardware. Don't over think the construction. No "full fuse built around a profile" nonsense. Pick an appropriate powerplant and stick to it. Don't try to change it to JATO or something. It doesn't need a hundred access hatches or gussets in it. Use known "numbers" in the flying surfaces.

When someone suggests something to you, don't get defensive or bitter. You may have a ton of years in model airplanes, but by your own admission, it's not in U/C stunt planes. You obviously know how to cut and fit parts nicely so stop worrying about being SH teacher and just finish a model.

And most importantly, FLY IT! If you don't want do it, have someone else do it. At this point, photographic evidence will be required. (I'm not kidding)  Hoff

 on: Yesterday at 12:44:09 PM 
Started by Larry Renger - Last post by Rick Huff

I have covered two planes with your concept of SLC over polyspan.  The first was my brother's RSM Mark 1 trainer.  He didn't want it painted and was very happy with the "look" of the SLC over polyspan.  It's also tough as nails.  The second plane I covered with SLC over polyspan is my new Joe Dill Chipmunk.  I painted the SLC (after scuffing with 2000 grit sandpaper) with auto 2-part acrylic urethane.   It came out beautifully.  Attached is a photo of it (without its canopy).  Of course, I'm hoping that it stays looking that way.  Only time will tell.


 on: Yesterday at 12:41:42 PM 
Started by Randy Cuberly - Last post by Sean McEntee
Guillows has a pretty good bomber line to include the -25, and their plans would be another good starting point too.  I have B-17 plans blown up that I want to use to do a 1/2A Profile scale model (provided these wars come to an end and I have the time to do so), but they would do well to use as a base for a full fuse subject.  The only caviate to that is you would need to come up with a solution for the plastic parts i.e. scoops, cowlings, fairings, ect.

 on: Yesterday at 12:23:13 PM 
Started by Steve Helmick - Last post by Gerald Arana
Choke, Gag, Cough. I think the one speaking is the one with a small mind........ Huh

Election is coming up. Can't wait!  y1 y1 y1 y1 y1 y1 y1 y1


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