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 41 
 on: Today at 01:07:18 PM 
Started by Dennis Saydak - Last post by Tim Wescott
When you need it (isn't that helpful).  Yes, model weight matters.

Folks seem to think 3/32" is OK for a 500 square-inch model; I would only use 1/8" on a 600 squares or bigger model.  People concerned about making things rigid will make the change to a bigger wire sooner; people who want to tweak flaps by bending the wire may hold off, or may use something other than music wire.

Sorry for not giving you definitive answers -- you'll find that there's a lot of personal preference involved.

 42 
 on: Today at 01:02:17 PM 
Started by Rafael Souza - Last post by Tim Wescott
They're coming out with timers now that give you more where you need it less where you don't. I tried one but it was so finicky I went back to the FM9.

If you mean the Burger or the Fioretti timers then I think you need to be pretty good to take advantage of them.  I know that -- at least as of a couple of years ago -- Paul Walker would do all of his initial trimming with a constant-speed timer, and only start using the speed-servoing features of the Burger timer when he had the airframe close to how he wanted it.

 43 
 on: Today at 12:50:36 PM 
Started by Chancey Chorney - Last post by Steve Helmick
K&B Speed Fuel (~60% vitamin N) was said to have "epoxidized safflower oil for lube. I wasn't all that impressed with the lubricity of the fuel, and started mixing my own using Ucon oil. This was much better, apparently, because the engine wouldn't seize on a lean run until the piston had a hole in it and the cylinder liner had turned a pretty blue...still with a nice smooth bore.

One of the questions that has always nagged me was whether the glowplug seal blowing was what caused the burndown or whether the lean run caused the glowplug seal to give up the ghost and head for cooler climates. I always got my best speeds with K&B glowplugs and had most the bad stuff happen with Fireball glowplugs.  Undecided Steve 

PS: Hempseed oil might be the cat's PJ's, and I'd guess that it's legal in my State.

 44 
 on: Today at 12:45:16 PM 
Started by Chancey Chorney - Last post by frank mccune
      Hi Larry:

      I asked this same question to a knowledgeable friend concerning  other oils like peanut, olive, soy, corn, rape. cotton seed etc. and he told me that all of the above oils would be fine but castor is the best. Can you imagine the great smell that peanut oil would impart? I would probably get the munchies while flying! Lol

     Perhaps other people who have tried various oils will add their thoughts.

                                                                                                                                      Be Cool,

                                                                                                                                      Frank McCune

 45 
 on: Today at 12:41:45 PM 
Started by Rafael Souza - Last post by Mark Scarborough
That's what I'm saying. There's less speed variation with e. They're coming out with timers now that give you more where you need it less where you don't. I tried one but it was so finicky I went back to the FM9.

MM
thats the advantage of electric, it maintains speed better, you dont want the airplane accelerating and decelerating through the flight.
a GLow setup will not maintain flight speed, well perhaps a pipe will but not a fox 35 or other 4-2-4

 46 
 on: Today at 12:33:06 PM 
Started by Lauri Malila - Last post by Steve Helmick
Tom Morris sells them also.

Charles Carter

Then Stunt Hangar Hobby should have them on the order form?   Huh Steve

 47 
 on: Today at 12:32:45 PM 
Started by Dennis Saydak - Last post by Dennis Saydak
When is it appropriate/necessary to upgrade from 3/32" wire to 1/8" wire control horns? Does the model weight play a role here?

 48 
 on: Today at 12:31:36 PM 
Started by Warren Walker - Last post by Steve Helmick
I'm working on it...possible two. Today is the wife's last day of work, and I need to go visit my Bro in Ridgecrust (sic). Ask Brian if he will have any spicy brown mustard...a not so private joke!  Wink Steve

 49 
 on: Today at 12:23:34 PM 
Started by Motorman - Last post by Steve Helmick
The LH & RH is per view from the pilot's location. The "P" for "pusher" is on nylon model props because many wouldn't understand what "LH" and "RH" means. A classic case of "dumbing down America". How are 1:1 scale propellers labelled? "LH" & "RH". Check it out.  y1 Steve

 50 
 on: Today at 12:14:25 PM 
Started by Motorman - Last post by Motorman
Guys have you seen a Grish Tornado? it says pusher right on the prop. They know it's going on a the front of a reed valve running backwards or a carrier engine with a left hand crank. APC  has it too EP electric pusher, they know it's going on the front of a motor running backwards. These are major propeller designers/manufactures that know what to call a prop. I also design and make my own props but keep my terminology in line with the industry. When you flip start a model prop it goes to the left but you call it a right prop. When I say tractor or pusher you know what it is. Where do you get your info Wikipedia?

MM 

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