News:


  • April 23, 2024, 07:46:14 PM

Login with username, password and session length

Recent Posts

Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10
41
Open Forum / Re: Sig Mfg
« Last post by Steve Helmick on Yesterday at 04:19:08 PM »
Sigment is on my list of useless crap. I built a Starduster X wing with it, double glued all joints, and it pretty much just fell apart when lifted off the board. I re-assembled it with Ambroid and had no problems with it.

It would be great if somebody would import "Tarzan's Grip" from Ozzie. I saw a billboard advertising it along the highway and brought back a tube in my luggage. That probably would get me jail time these days. If any Ozzies use it, go ahead and brag!  LL~ Steve
42
https://youtu.be/xjjqtSO8Tds?si=kUW1b4knLzCaFkAh

JUST WATCHED THIS WINDY VIDEO ON HIS LAST SPITFIRE WHICH HAD FOWARD SWEPT TRAILING EDGE AND SAID IT WAS THE EASIEST TO FLY  OF HIS SPITFIRES
43
Building techniques / Re: Macchi-ized Fancherized Twister Build
« Last post by Jake Moon on Yesterday at 08:28:39 AM »
Thanks for the kind comments. A big update - we have paint! I went for the standard sand with green squiggles that the Italians employed on most C.202s and C.205s. I used some Nippon Paint rattlecans from a hardware store as that is all I can manage with my setup at the moment. The green is just acrylic art paint applied with a brush. In the future I'll certainly need to figure out some sort of airbrush system as this isn't great paint and is quite heavy. Since the color covers well, I did not prime the airframe. Even still, all the color added 3.5 ounces. Ouch!








The airframe is now 23 ounces. My new target number for the completed plane is 44 ounces. I recently bought a Brodak .40 that I'll use instead of the K&B .28 I had planned to used, so that should give me a whole lot more power for minimal weight gain.

My next step will be to design some vinyl applications for the roundels and squadron markings. We live near an art school so there are about a dozen print shops who can cut vinyl within a 10-minute walk.

Thanks for looking,
Jake
44
ARF'S / Re: Brodak SV-11 ARF
« Last post by Alex Grudev on Yesterday at 08:26:50 AM »
Glass cloth on the center section of the wing around the entire joint (top and bottom) had no effect on the alignment.  I used masking tape on the wing so that the glass cloth and epoxy was on the inside of the glue joint.  Once the epoxy dries I sand the edge of the masking tape to remove it.  I use a level on the nose of the plane (on the SV-11, this area is parallel with the thrust line) to ensure it is in fact level and in a stable position so it won't move, and I use incidence meters (old mechanical ones made by Great Planes, they also make laser meters but I have not used them) on the wing and tail.  I tack glue things in place with CA before final gluing.  I hope this adequately answers you question.

Don
Thanks Don. Do you use some special stand to fix the fuselage? Besides that I understood that having level to set fuselage horizontally correct + incidence meter will be enough for assembling.
45
Open Forum / Re: Fioretti programing g force
« Last post by Ken Culbertson on Yesterday at 07:09:06 AM »
Hi, so I have my fioretti programmed so it kicks in extra power when the nose points up. But it also says g force in another programming window.
When I did my vertical 8 today, it kicked in extra power on the first loop, but by the top of the second loop it doesn't register the nose as pointed up and I lose my power boost.  How does the g force programming work? I'm sure there must be benefits to this timer. 
Learning how to balance nose up and g-force is a plane-by-plane exercise.  I have been using Fiorotti for three years and it turns out different on each plane.  I prefer using g-force to nose up.  I have been told that it works by measuring the difference in gravitational pull but somehow I think centrifugal force also plays a part.  That is why you need to calibrate to set a level flight base line.  The boost from nose up is hard to regulate in the rounds and a real problem in winds over 10 where it creates serious wind up.  The nominal boost from the sensitivity setting is enough for most of the pattern.  Nose up is great for the RWO and the 1st leg of the hourglass but you get the same boost, only a bit later with g-force.  I was given some advice when I first started using the timer to turn off nose up and g-force and trim the plane to fly as best it could using only rpm and sensitivity.  With those settings start adding the others till you had it like you wanted it.  Of course, I ignored that and wasted a lot of time messing around.  A relatively high g-force setting is like adding an extra gear that automatically shifts when the lines start to slacken.  It has it's maximum benefit in back end of the pattern starting with the V8.  It takes some getting used to, especially in the OH8 and level flight in wind.  In my experience G-Force is an electric 4-2-4.

Just for grins, turn off nose up, crank g-force way up and see what it does.  Then do the same with Nose Up and g-force off.  That will tell you when each kicks in.   Also watch the corners.  Are you getting boost coming out of the corner or after you exit it?  Also be careful of g-force if you fly big.  You may get an unwanted boost at the top of the loops.

Good luck.  My settings will probably differ from others, and I hope that they will chime in as well so we all can learn more about this timer.

Ken
46
ARF'S / Re: Brodak SV-11 ARF
« Last post by Don Jenkins on Yesterday at 07:05:35 AM »
Hello guys. Which equipment do you use in order to place wing and stabilizer correctly (horizontally, and with 0 incidence) on SV-11? Regarding the glass cloth - you put it on top of the wing joint surface, right? Wont it affect whilst gluing wing to fuselage?
Glass cloth on the center section of the wing around the entire joint (top and bottom) had no effect on the alignment.  I used masking tape on the wing so that the glass cloth and epoxy was on the inside of the glue joint.  Once the epoxy dries I sand the edge of the masking tape to remove it.  I use a level on the nose of the plane (on the SV-11, this area is parallel with the thrust line) to ensure it is in fact level and in a stable position so it won't move, and I use incidence meters (old mechanical ones made by Great Planes, they also make laser meters but I have not used them) on the wing and tail.  I tack glue things in place with CA before final gluing.  I hope this adequately answers you question.

Don
47
ARF'S / Re: My SV-11 ARF Build
« Last post by Alex Grudev on Yesterday at 05:21:26 AM »
Hello Jeremy. Which equipment you used in order to place wing and stabilizer on the fuselage correctly?
48
ARF'S / Re: Brodak SV-11 ARF
« Last post by Alex Grudev on Yesterday at 05:19:10 AM »
Hello guys. Which equipment do you use in order to place wing and stabilizer correctly (horizontally, and with 0 incidence) on SV-11? Regarding the glass cloth - you put it on top of the wing joint surface, right? Wont it affect whilst gluing wing to fuselage?
49
Open Forum / Fioretti programing g force
« Last post by Shorts,David on April 21, 2024, 11:30:43 PM »
Hi, so I have my fioretti programmed so it kicks in extra power when the nose points up. But it also says g force in another programming window.
When I did my vertical 8 today, it kicked in extra power on the first loop, but by the top of the second loop it doesn't register the nose as pointed up and I lose my power boost.  How does the g force programming work? I'm sure there must be benefits to this timer. 
50
Open Forum / Re: Half-A plastic parts
« Last post by Dan McEntee on April 21, 2024, 10:23:24 PM »
  I'll be digging through my tank collection looking for a tank for a project. I have a ton of the square small Perfect brand metal tanks. If just for going round and round and pulling positive G for a loop or wing over now and then, they should work. Ping me back if interested.
  Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee
Pages: 1 ... 3 4 [5] 6 7 ... 10

Advertise Here