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 on: Yesterday at 04:56:10 PM 
Started by Dane Martin - Last post by Dane Martin

 on: Yesterday at 04:46:39 PM 
Started by Dane Martin - Last post by Dane Martin
I'm gonna continue posting my version of this how to. Hopefully some of this is helpful. I find that's it helps keep me motivated and my mind off of stuff to just build this thing.
A few friends asked how I do monokote around the nose and engine mounts without making cuts. This gives a smooth look. I'll split this up cuz it's a lot of pics.

So the start was finishing the splice and covering the doublers. I left about an inch over hang to have something to grab. Adhere the entire doubler area and push the iron over to get the rounded area to stick ( you should see a prominent outline) and work the bottom over. Stop almost an inch from the sharp turn. Pull some monokote towards the bottom that's shrunk down. Hold the kote up and shrink out some wrinkles, then lay it on the corner while still hot. You can heat and lift to repeat until it's tight. After the corner is done, pull tight and iron out some of the wrinkles on the excess. That will make the area that's cut off smoother

When the bottom and bottom corner are done, you can pull a lot of excess into the engine mount area. This makes the top a little easier than the bottom. Keep pulling tight but up away from the fuse for these corners. Shrink out the kote then quickly lay it on the corner. Stick down a little at a time in top, and pull tight away from the the wrinkles out and away. This inch from the top corner is slow progress, but then after that straight smooth sailing

 on: Yesterday at 04:28:14 PM 
Started by Mark Scarborough - Last post by Mark Scarborough
Mark, that looks MEAN!

Can you tell us about the gear you're using to do the airbrush work?
I use an Iwata airbrush,, apply the big areas of color with an Iwata detail gun ( HVLP) and spray my clear with a SATA Minijet,,
I cant recall the model numbers off the top of myhead,,

 on: Yesterday at 04:26:29 PM 
Started by Mark Scarborough - Last post by Mark Scarborough
you can call it anything you want to,, especially if its still around when I move up and beat you at a contest LOL,, just whatever you do dont call it sawdust, and with my history,, I wont be calling it "impact",, cause I have had enough impacts,,

 on: Yesterday at 04:24:14 PM 
Started by Frank Imbriaco - Last post by Frank Imbriaco
Hi Keith :

God willing, I plan to be at Brodaks, but  unfortunately for  only  a couple of days this year .

 Either Mon. and Tues. or  Thur- Sat.


 on: Yesterday at 04:10:34 PM 
Started by SteveMoon - Last post by SteveMoon
Thanks Dennis; it's on the way.


 on: Yesterday at 03:58:07 PM 
Started by Mike Griffin - Last post by Allen Goff
Mike, prayers on the way.

 on: Yesterday at 03:22:41 PM 
Started by Robert Storick - Last post by Robert Storick
     Hi Sparky:

     I a, trying to help you but I can not log on to subscribe.  How can I determine if I am logged on to Google?  If I am not registered on Google, how do I register?



Watch this video

 on: Yesterday at 02:55:20 PM 
Started by Frank Imbriaco - Last post by goozgog
Frank, Are you going to Brodak's this year?

 on: Yesterday at 02:48:52 PM 
Started by Dennis Toth - Last post by Robertc
Battery for Formula E:

More info:

For the first season, all teams were supplied an electric racing car built by Spark Racing Technology, called the Spark-Renault SRT 01E. The chassis was designed by Dallara, with an electric motor developed by McLaren (the same as that used in its P1 supercar), a battery system created by Williams F1 and a Hewland five-speed gearbox. Michelin will be the official tyre supplier.[6][7][8] For the first season, 42 electric cars have been ordered by the series, with four cars made available to each of the ten teams and two cars kept for testing purposes.[9]

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