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 21 
 on: Today at 05:38:20 PM 
Started by Jeff Traxler - Last post by Bob Hudak
That is a very nice looking prop. Good job Jeff. Bet it performs as good as it looks.
Bob

 22 
 on: Today at 05:29:06 PM 
Started by George Truett - Last post by George Truett
I have 2 used G-51s (new style with rectangular head) that I am not going to use.  These are R/C engines with carbs and mufflers.  They are well used but run fine no enlarged mounting holes or other apparent mods.  They are ringed engines and both run well but it is probably time for new rings.  I bought one venturi and NVA from shtterman on eBay which is included.  No prop nuts or washers for either engine(std. 1/4-28) and no boxes.  $100 for the pair and I'll pay shipping, US sale only.  PM with email address if you would like pictures.  George

 23 
 on: Today at 05:25:20 PM 
Started by #Liner - Last post by #Liner
 Ok so I bench run the Roadrunner and it seemed to have a lot of vibration. Causing lots of air bubbles and erratic run. I believe I tracked it down to the spinner. I set it up with a expensive spinner from Brodaks in hopes that it wound be a better balanced spinner. No dice.

Are there any spinners out there you don't have to screw around with trying to balance, just curious?

Can you use RTV on the inside to balance it?

When you guys get a good run do you get any air bubbles in the fuel? Should you have absolutely no air bubbles in any control line airplane engine?

 24 
 on: Today at 05:14:13 PM 
Started by #Liner - Last post by #Liner
If you lower the tank, the engine will run richer when inverted. If you raise the tank, the engine will run richer when upright.

Like Rusty wrote, the ugly end of run (on-off-on-off) can be fixed by shimming the back of the tank outward. But it can also be fixed by moving the LO's forward. I'd shim the tank 1/8"-1/4"and then work with the LO's to get them correct later. Leave the tank aft end shimmed out, it won't hurt a thing.  Only watched the first video to this point.

If the engine is new, I'd run less prop...the 11-4 APC or 11.5-4 APC would work. Have you got plenty of oil in the fuel for the newer engine? I ran my first .46LA one tank full in the plane on the ground, saw that it was stable, and flew it on Powermaster 10-29 GMA. After that gallon was gone, I change to 10-22.  

I'll go watch the other video...ah, the second engine is going lean in the outsides, so lower that tank some more. I kinda like to make my first adjustment 'coarse', so I can see something happening, then perhaps work backwards toward where it had been. I just don't see any sense in making a tiny adjustment a dozen times, when I can make a big adjustment and get something done right now! I'm sure opinions will vary.

Good wide, free turning tires will help a lot on grass. The stock Brodak wheels should be good. Hoff Steve

Thanks for the info Steve! I've been running Brodaks 10% 11.5castor  11.5synthetic.
I setteled on the XOAR 12 X 4 on my Fronkensteen 4/LA 46. It ran great, but my engine was well broken in.
That prop sometimes is hard to get, hobby shop said it's on back order till end of June. Had a problem getting it last year too.

 25 
 on: Today at 04:52:00 PM 
Started by Gene Martine - Last post by Jim Mynes
Gene,

Are there actually RV hook ups, or is that left over from last year's flyer?

If no facilities, is dry camping an option?


 26 
 on: Today at 04:48:20 PM 
Started by Mike Griffin - Last post by Mike Griffin
Why are the washers so big?




To eliminate as much wobble as possible and help keep the bellcrank in a level plane.

Mike

 27 
 on: Today at 04:32:50 PM 
Started by Gary Dowler - Last post by Fred Cronenwett
Gary - What part of the country do you live I might be able to suggest a local club that will have some experienced pilots that can show you some planes with 3-line control systems.

Fred

 28 
 on: Today at 04:25:37 PM 
Started by Chris Wilson - Last post by Paul Smith
Yeah. 

To be fair you need to require that the motor be idling during the landing, the shut off after the model rolls to a stop.  Every other rule has been tweaked in favor of electrics.  Why not one more?

 29 
 on: Today at 04:23:06 PM 
Started by Gary Dowler - Last post by Paul Smith
My technique for getting three line to work is:

Make both the handle and the airplane so all 3 leadouts are equal length at high speed with level controls.

Make the lines as equal as you can.

With the throttle line disconnected, get the controls level with different-size clips.

Then get the throttle line working with different-size clips.

This system worked OK for me from 1967 through 2013. 
Then I just switched to 2.4 and use any line and adjustable handle I want. 
I still do 3-line on my old stuff.




 30 
 on: Today at 03:58:27 PM 
Started by Gary Dowler - Last post by Dan McEntee
    Hi Gary;
    I have collected a lot of that stuff, but have not put any of it to use. So far, my only venture into scale has been with 2.4GHZ stuff, but still want to do some three line stuff because I got it! ( Do a search on the list here for my name and "Dusty").You may want to do a search on the scale section and see what it may hold. The web site here has been around for more than ten years now, so there is quite a bit of information. If you are an AMA member, you can research back issues of Model Aviation magazine and the scale columns in that publication for the "vintage: style of help you need. There are plenty of "vintage" guys on here, and I'm sure they'll chime in. Just stick to your guns on the three line set up. I think there may be some issue with bell cranks, seeing as you have an old J-Roberts handle, and a new bell crank. I'm not sure but the issue in in the length of the throttle movement? A geometry issue? I'm going on an old memory. But welcome back, have fun and I hope youget it all worked out.
  Type at you later,
   Dan McEntee

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