eBay buyers - those who collect are gradually evolving to the kids of the 60s and 70s who owned small displacement engines in their Cox , Wen-Mac and other marques model airplanes and tether cars. Some owned them in gas R/C cars and trucks. These are getting the attention now. Madwell 49s ? Old guys stuff. Unfortunate. Witness lower bids on Anderson Spitfire 60 and 65 and Super Cyclones. I'm caught in the middle. Now, I'll sit by and wait for a Dooling 61. Perfect n.i.b. and excellent were bringing 1K just a few years back. They're down 30% and dropping ; albeit at a slower pace.
Thanks for the story and suggestions, Matt. I have decided already to carry the flaps through the fuselage, since I don't trust myself to get them on right otherwise (never having built a Flite Streak or Peacemaker. I'm getting the idea that my choice of vintage engine won't quite cut it. The club guys say that if I use a .15, it should be modern. Oh, well. I have a little time to see to that. I got the main wing structure done today.
Gerald- 'sorry to be late responding, but I think you misunderstood what I do. I do not put resin on the cloth before applying. That would defeat my purpose greatly. After a coat or two of dope - with sanding - to seal the wood, I apply a very thin resin coat, scraped down to a thin sheen, to the wood. I roll the glass onto the wood, roll it tight under waxed paper (finger pressure in concave or convex places), and wait for the resin to tack some. Then I apply another coat of resin just to fill the weave. The glass does not float up. I remove the excess resin by the card method and - IF I have applied that resin right - sand down to the weave later.
The last time, I rolled the glass after taping the edges to prevent what you've described. Believe me, I know what you mean; what a mess, if the glass is allowed to stretch!! The first side of the second fuselage had to be cleaned off and redone, after the glass did that. It's a delicate operation, but you can get the job done with minimum resin this way. I'm always really tired, after that operation - takes concentration!
If memory serves (!), my calculations, and one trial weighing, showed me that I could save over an ounce of weight using 1/16 balsa and FG/Epoxy instead of 1/64" plywood, but I love the ply and probably would use it sometime for this purpose. It's much easier. - SK
I don't care for the accelerators, either in aerosol or pump. Both are hard to control and apply way too much. I did find better way to apply the kicker. I put some in a small glass bottle (like a model paint jar) about an 1/8". Use a q-tip to dab it on the joint. The q-tip does not stick and is reusable for several building sessions. I also noticed Zap kicker is especially stinky and I switched to Bob Smith.