This is the one I was building when I did the three jigging videos. Two of the three are on Walter Umland's site near the bottom of the page here: http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscPgs/AlignJigSet/AlignJigSet01a.htm
The stab jig video isn't on there yet. I have tons of pics on this build, but the thread is on my other forum hangout. Right now I'm at that point where "The devil's in the details" gets tedious. My goal is a very capable and dependable Profile PA ship, so I've been meticulous with that in mind. It looks like I'm going to hit the mark pretty close on weight.
I'm in the process of silk-spanning the flaps right now, so after they're painted and hinges glued, I can spray the trim colors and apply the decals. Then hook up the linkages, bolt on the power plant and LG and go fly. Sounds like a week, but as usual it'll probably be two.So here's a question:
I have some tissue(ran out of silk span), and it seems stronger than silk span which I would think is good for the flaps. It has an obvious grain because it resists tearing much more in one direction. Should I run the grain lengthwise from end to end of the flaps, or crosswise? I can conceive of arguments to support both ways. Thanks for any tips on that.
Here are the two sets of plans I have for it. I'm using the one for the FP.35/.40, but there are hardly any differences. I hope it's as light as projected, I'd like to use the fp.35, because the tank cutout fits a new 3-1/2 oz. Uniflow tank I have. But after Bob Z. modded my fp.40 head, It may very well run on the small tank too.
Okay, hope y'all approve of my work. I have pics of it all in case anyone is curious about some other part of the model I haven't included here.
Here's some pics and a couple more questions.
These pics are hosted on Photobucket. After opening a thumbnail, I think if you see a gray and white magnifying glass to the right of the picture, click it and you'll get a huge version for a closer look. You can see all my blems that way.
This fuselage came in the kit as two pieces to be laminated. My buddy Wayne Robinson built the fuse and sandwiched carbon fabric between the halves. He covered the whole fuse with light fiberglass and dope. After he built the fuse, he turned it over to me to me to finish the wing and rest of the kit.
I really like the sleek razorback look rather than the bubble canopy.
Now look at the 4th rib from center. Someone whacked it and it's chipped under the covering. Maybe it was me. At least I haven't dropped a screwdriver through it yet.
That white DC Lacquer is pretty bright and reflective. It might be heavier than dope, but it seems like the lightest paint I've ever used. I have blue red and black for trim colors.Questions:
Should I wet sand it before masking and spraying the trim colors on? Or wait until it's all painted, and wet sand before the clear dope?
I love the outboard tripler on the nose. Not only extra strength and resistance to vibrations, but at first glance, the recessed tank and engine will look like a full fuselage.
Here's a look at the fillets. Microballoons and eopxy.
The Stab fillet. I forgot I had 1/4" triangle stock for the underside, but I think the fillet will serve the same purpose. I'd already put it on there before I remembered.
Here is my only mistake so far as I can tell... the control rod hole is too far aft, so I have to move it forward and try not to ugly it up in the process. Another headslapper. GRRRRR!
My painting supplies.