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 21 
 on: Yesterday at 10:21:44 PM 
Started by Motorman - Last post by Motorman
The zoot cranks are softer than OEM.

 22 
 on: Yesterday at 10:15:20 PM 
Started by RknRusty - Last post by RknRusty
This is the one I was building when I did the three jigging videos. Two of the three are on Walter Umland's site near the bottom of the page here: http://www.builtrightflyright.com/MiscPgs/AlignJigSet/AlignJigSet01a.htm The stab jig video isn't on there yet. I have tons of pics on this build, but the thread is on my other forum hangout. Right now I'm at that point where "The devil's in the details" gets tedious. My goal is a very capable and dependable Profile PA ship, so I've been meticulous with that in mind. It looks like I'm going to hit the mark pretty close on weight.

I'm in the process of silk-spanning the flaps right now, so after they're painted and hinges glued, I can spray the trim colors and apply the decals. Then hook up the linkages, bolt on the power plant and LG and go fly. Sounds like a week, but as usual it'll probably be two.
So here's a question: I have some tissue(ran out of silk span), and it seems stronger than silk span which I would think is good for the flaps. It has an obvious grain because it resists tearing much more in one direction. Should I run the grain lengthwise from end to end of the flaps, or crosswise? I can conceive of arguments to support both ways. Thanks for any tips on that.

Here are the two sets of plans I have for it. I'm using the one for the FP.35/.40, but there are hardly any differences. I hope it's as light as projected, I'd like to use the fp.35, because the tank cutout fits a new 3-1/2 oz. Uniflow tank I have. But after Bob Z. modded my fp.40 head, It may very well run on the small tank too.

Okay, hope y'all approve of my work. I have pics of it all in case anyone is curious about some other part of the model I haven't included here.
Rusty

Here's some pics and a couple more questions.
These pics are hosted on Photobucket. After opening a thumbnail, I think if you see a gray and white magnifying glass to the right of the picture, click it and you'll get a huge version for a closer look. You can see all my blems that way.


This fuselage came in the kit as two pieces to be laminated. My buddy Wayne Robinson built the fuse and sandwiched carbon fabric between the halves. He covered the whole fuse with light fiberglass and dope. After he built the fuse, he turned it over to me to me to finish the wing and rest of the kit.
I really like the sleek razorback look rather than the bubble canopy.
Now look at the 4th rib from center. Someone whacked it and it's chipped under the covering. Maybe it was me. At least I haven't dropped a screwdriver through it yet.



That white DC Lacquer is pretty bright and reflective. It might be heavier than dope, but it seems like the lightest paint I've ever used. I have blue red and black for trim colors.

Questions: Should I wet sand it before masking and spraying the trim colors on? Or wait until it's all painted, and wet sand before the clear dope?


I love the outboard tripler on the nose. Not only extra strength and resistance to vibrations, but at first glance, the recessed tank and engine will look like a full fuselage.


Here's a look at the fillets. Microballoons and eopxy.


The Stab fillet. I forgot I had 1/4" triangle stock for the underside, but I think the fillet will serve the same purpose. I'd already put it on there before I remembered.


Here is my only mistake so far as I can tell... the control rod hole is too far aft, so I have to move it forward and try not to ugly it up in the process. Another headslapper. GRRRRR!


My painting supplies.


 23 
 on: Yesterday at 09:55:16 PM 
Started by Fredvon4 - Last post by Chris Keller
That would be great let me know thanks


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 24 
 on: Yesterday at 09:22:34 PM 
Started by bob whitney - Last post by bill bischoff
Biscuits and Gravy will be there, so tell Jason not to run out of the circle until the race is really over!  Layingdown

 25 
 on: Yesterday at 09:19:51 PM 
Started by Tim Wescott - Last post by Mark Scarborough
As far as I know, the larger tail increases the range and moves it back.  But -- what's wrong with having a narrower, more forward range?  (Note: I'm not arguing for or against this -- I'm just curious if anyone's run it through their gray matter, and what they thought of it).

When you balance your electric ship more forwardly than your gas ship with an empty tank, are you going further forward than your gas ship with a full tank?
as normal Tim, I am blathering too, hoping if I am whacked that Brett or Paul will pop in and correct us/me

The CG can affect the point the airplane pivots in the corners and the appearance of the corner thus affecting scoring.
and YES the happy place CG on my electric airframe is farther forward than it is with a IC GLow and full tank Happy place.
I think if you actually tested the CG shift on a glow airframe you might be surprised and how little it moves. but thats my opinion,, I know I can move my battery ( 14 ounces) and I was surprised I thought the room I had was going to make a big difference,, not as much as I thought

 26 
 on: Yesterday at 09:09:22 PM 
Started by Dave_Trible - Last post by Matt Colan
Can't make it this year but I will hopefully make it next year, with an extra year of practice and with an airplane that will not receive a "dozen" appearance points!

 27 
 on: Yesterday at 08:11:49 PM 
Started by okcub2015 - Last post by Chris Wilson
Big Art once told me to get a 10X3 Top Flight prop to break in my OS.35S that he had breathed on.  I would us a 6X3 prop on your Cub for break in.  Plus add some castor, the cub did need more castor in my observations that the Cox engines. And make sure you leave the ignitor on long enough.  Just my thoughts.....

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM
Yep, that is pretty much what the tester reckons in the supplied link.

 28 
 on: Yesterday at 07:50:26 PM 
Started by Fred Underwood - Last post by Fred Underwood
"Saved by the bell" might now be "saved by the light."  I've been flying by charging to 4.17V and still using only about 75% battery.  I wanted to have more RPM without affecting the headroom for acceleration, or actually increasing headroom, so upped the charge and started at a slightly voltage.  That allowed 3 clicks lower rpm setting for the same lap time.  I initially guessed on the rpm setting and didn't want a long flight that was too fast or slow, so set the timer minutes back to 2. The lap time was good, as well as overhead speed, so I placed that battery on charge and put in a new battery.  Unfortunately, I forgot to reset the time, and started into the pattern.  It was a bit unnerving to get into the outside square going down and inverted, and see the warning light come on.  After the very brief first thought of timer failure came the reality of pilot failure.  Fortunately there is about 10 seconds of solid light, from blinking, until power off. Lesson learned, and I will pay attention to the light.

 29 
 on: Yesterday at 07:49:41 PM 
Started by Dane Martin - Last post by Dane Martin
Hey Chris! I keep missing you in cali!
So this project actually turned into
http://stunthanger.com/smf/engine-set-up-tips/ro-jett-61-prop-advice/

After some digging, I found that a ro-Jett 61 was in this plane first. So I got one for myself so I could just drop it in the plane. Then I decided it was too loud, and figured why not go for the gusto and pipe it. So the plane underwent huge modifications any way.....
Indecisiveness struck big time on this "little" project.

 30 
 on: Yesterday at 07:40:40 PM 
Started by B Norton - Last post by Greg McCoy
Henry Ford is reputed to have paid a large bill itemized "knowing where to tinker".

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