Legacy 40 - Electric A build Log

[Crist Rigotti]

Time for another build log.  I have my shop set up enough to start building again after the move to Texas. 

This time it will be a Legacy 40 electric.  Back in 2001 Allen Brickhaus contacted me and asked if I would be interested in building one of the prototypes the other being built by Watt Moore who Allen used to CAD the drawings.  I powered that one with a Stuka Stunt OS35FP and a 12 inch Bolly prop.  The plane flew very well for me and it was retired in 2006 using an OS 46 LA.  That airplane was used to fly my first full pattern in August of 2001 with Floyd Layton coaching that day. 

Allen was my mentor and good friend.  His gentle coaching and encouragement has help me through the years.  After every contest he would ask me what went well and where I thought I could have done better.  At the end of every year we would talk about the year and the new flying season ahead along with what airplane I intended to build over the winter.  When I started to compete he would tell me that there are only 2 important things on contest day; Breakfast and Dinner, everything else in between was fun.  I often would think that on contest day especially if it didn't go well.  And there were many that didn't.  I knew what he meant and have always kept that close to my heart.  I miss Allen and this build thread is dedicated to his memory one year after his passing.  He touched a lot of people and I hope through this build thread, I can stir some of those good memories for you.

[Crist Rigotti]

This version of the Legacy 40 (L-40) retains the same size and outline as the prototype that I built.  Some of the stats are:

WS- 54 inches
WA - 571 sq in
Flap volume - 16.41%
Tail Volume - 27.9%
Weight - 50 oz
Stab area - 90.5 sq in
Elevator area - 68.84 sq in
Wing offset - .5 in
Flap area - 93.76 sq in

The changes I've made are all internal except 1.  They are:
Foam wing
Landing gear moved into the wing
Molded top blocks
Canopy moved aft 1/2 inch to accommodate the battery hatch
2 1/2" wheels instead of 2"
Hinged rudder for either a Rabe or adjustable rudder
Eliminate the "engine" cowl
Increase the fuselage width 3/8" to facilitate electric cooling

I've included a pdf of the full size drawings that I'll be using along with my weight and balance chart, my electric worksheet and my building notes and weight chart.

I'll try to be very specific as to the density of the balsa wood I'm using for each part, the type of glue, and nearly a step by step as we go along.  Please ask questions and leave comments as you see fit.

EDIT: I added a note to the plan that states the "Top" view is really the "Bottom" view.  This is the way I build my fuselages on the bench using my jig.  I build them upside down.  Hence the upside down view on my drawing.

Another Edit: I increased the scaled width of the landing gear to match the full size Legacy and created a pdf in ledger size rather than full size till the build is finished.

[Bob Hudak]

Crist,
 Looking at your ledger plans I'm trying to figure out what the template on the bottom of the plan is. Maybe the bottom view of the plane? Will the battery tray be vertically adjustable? I see holes in the tabs of the battery tray.
Bob

[Crist Rigotti]

Crist,
 Looking at your ledger plans I'm trying to figure out what the template on the bottom of the plan is. Maybe the bottom view of the plane? Will the battery tray be vertically adjustable? I see holes in the tabs of the battery tray.
Bob

That template would be the 1/8 Lite-Ply wing spar.  I could adjust the battery tray by using shims under the tray.  The holes are for the #2 servo mounting screws that will hold the tray in the fuselage.

[RC Storick]

  Crist is this another build a log? Beating by proxy. 

[Crist Rigotti]

Crist is this another build a log? Beating by proxy. 

Well Bob, I guess it is!  Looking forward to getting it done now that I'm pretty near settled in here in Texas.  A good group of flyers from these parts and expecting some good advice on what to improve.  Have a Happy New Year.

[Crist Rigotti]

I have the foam wings all cut out.  Each panel weighs 43 grams.  They are triple cored and the leading edge is sectioned for the wing mounted landing gear.  I'm under the weather lately with the crud.  Progress has been slow.  Feeling a bit better today.  Pictures and more info later.

[Leester]

Hope you start feeling better, since your retired are you going to start cutting foam wings again ?? GO HAWKS !!

[Crist Rigotti]

Hope you start feeling better, since your retired are you going to start cutting foam wings again ?? GO HAWKS !!

Thanks Lee.  Maybe on the foam wings.

[Dennis Vander Kuur]

Crist,
Looking forward to following your build thread. Hope you're staying warm down there in Texas. We're freezing up here in Illinois brrrrrrrr.
Dennis

[Crist Rigotti]

Crist,
Looking forward to following your build thread. Hope you're staying warm down there in Texas. We're freezing up here in Illinois brrrrrrrr.
Dennis

Good to hear from you Dennis.  Staying warmer than you, that's for sure!   

[Crist Rigotti]

Here is a picture of the foam core that I cut.  The wing will use a wrap around sheeted leading edge.  After cutting the airfoil shape I sand the cores using 180 grit sandpaper to get rid of the "cotton candy" crispies and to knock off the LE leading of the hot wire.  After sanding the cores change on how they feel.  They go from the "hairy crispy" state to a soft velvet smooth feel.  I then mark out the location of the spars and the LE ribs.  The LE rib locations are the outer edge of the outer rib and the inner edge of the inner rib.  The foam between those 2 cuts will be trimmed down to fit between the ribs once they are glued in.  

The spar slot is then cut using a 1/16 ply guide that has approximately 1/8 slot and held in with 1/8 aluminum roofing nails.  The slot is then cut using a small bow with nichrome wire.  I then "horizontal bore" near the center of each the 3 cores on each panel.  I use a 3/16 4 foot rod that I heat the end with a propane torch. I have the bench marked out the "travel" of the rod and align the center marks of the core piece with the bench mark.  I then heat up the rod and twist it while inserting it into the core.  I only go half way.  I do this for each of the 3 cores starting at the tip.  I then turn around the wing panel so the rod goes into the root and meet the hole already half drilled through.  Same procedure is used till the rod meets the other holes.  Once done I then put my templates on the wing panel and using a 1/8 x 1/4 x 36 inch piece of spruce I then thread the hot wire through the holes and hook each end back up on the bow.  BTW, I use .020 stainless steel safety wire on my long bow.  I turn on the electricity using a foot switch and proceed to cut the core.  I repeat this 3 times for each panel.  On the inboard panel I also add a notch to the spar to allow lead out adjustment.

Once the wing panel has been cored, I then make the cut on the LE for the landing gear ribs.  I tape guides in place and use my small bow to do this.  Once done I then cut the outboard panel down 1/2 inch to provide my 1/2 inch wing offset.  Each panel weighs 43 grams.

Next up the Leading Edge sheeting!

[Crist Rigotti]

I used 6.3# 1/16 balsa for the LE sheeting.  This will be the wraparound type LE.  I used a 4" wide piece of nice "A" grain wood then cut it into 2" strips 26 inches long.  I then used 2 pieces of 3" balsa on each side the the 2" balsa.  I try to use "A" grain because it goes around corners (the LE!) easily.  The root is about 8" wide and the tip is about 6 3/4" wide.  I taper the the 3" pieces to obtain the tip dimension needed.  This tapered side goes against the 2" LE piece.  This allows the grain of the 3" pieces to be parallel to the spar.  I think this gives me a stronger wing this way.

After trimming the pieces to size, I then edge sand the sides that will be glued together.  I use a 4 foot level with some sticky backed sandpaper on one end and clamp it to my workbench.  I then clamp a 1/4" balsa in front of the level.  This is done to get the piece that I'm going to sand up from the table and on to the sandpaper.  The picture should help.  I then sand the edges carefully.  It only takes about 6 passes to produce a good joint.

I then edge glue them together using Bob Hunt's method of using thin CA glue and masking tape protected fingers.  I do this over wax paper to prevent the skins from sticking to the bench.  Once glued, I mark what side goes in (usually the side I just applied the glue to) and sand the skins smooth.  Not too much, but just smooth.  I then draw a center line down the middle of the 2" center piece for alignment when I mold the LE.  Each skin just before molding weighs 19 grams.

[Zuriel Armstrong]

Crust,

Thanks for taking the time to post your build log. I look forward to each installment. I find this very helpful.

Zuriel

[Crist Rigotti]

Crust,

Thanks for taking the time to post your build log. I look forward to each installment. I find this very helpful.

Zuriel

Thanks Zuriel.

[Crist Rigotti]

Let's add the spars to the wings.  I use 1/8 Lite-Ply for the spars.  I use 3M #77 spray glue and glue the plan onto the Lite-Ply.  After cutting out on my jig saw and hand filing the holes.  I then used my disc sander to sand the out edges to their final size.  I then use some acetone and a paper towel and dab the plan sheet to loosen the glue to remove it from the Lite-Ply.  A little sanding and they are ready to glue in.

A fit check then is in order.  I glue it to the foam panel using my Pica-Gluit for foam.  This stuff works great.  I then tape into position and place into the cradles and weight them down till dry.

[Crist Rigotti]

After the spars are dry I then glue on the inboard portion of the LE.  I first cut out the foam for the bell crank then I dry fit the LE piece.  I then mark the bell crank cutout and cut the foam.  Once done I glue on the LE piece using Pica-Gluit carefully aligning the foam on the root edge and centered on the spar.  Again this is taped into position and weighted down in the cradles to dry.

[Crist Rigotti]

BTW, I almost forgot to mention that I use 1 sheet of newspaper and wrap each of the "plugs" from the 3 sections that have been cored.  By wrapping them with newspaper, I make up for the hot-wire kerf.  They now fit just a bit snug and when weighing down the cradles, the wing panel retains its shape.

[Allan Perret]

That's a neat tip about the newspaper with the core plugs.  I would have thought the hot wire kerf would take more than just one layer.  So where do you get the Pica foam glue you mentioned ? 
Really enjoy following your builds, thanks for making the extra effort to post.  I did this a couple of years ago with my RMD-3 build on the Ringmaster BrotherHood forum, then shortly after it was done their server crashed and it was lost.. 

[Crist Rigotti]

That's a neat tip about the newspaper with the core plugs.  I would have thought the hot wire kerf would take more than just one layer.  So where do you get the Pica foam glue you mentioned ?  
Really enjoy following your builds, thanks for making the extra effort to post.  I did this a couple of years ago with my RMD-3 build on the Ringmaster BrotherHood forum, then shortly after it was done their server crashed and it was lost..  

Allan,
Unfortunately the Pica-Gluit line is no longer produced.  I only have the 1 bottle of the foam stuff ( it is listed as a acrylic copolymer emulsion) , but 3 of their wood-to-wood glue (it is listed as an aliphatic).  The foam glue reminds me of Pacer's 560 canopy glue.

I tried 2 sheets of newspaper and it got too thick.  Instead of layers I should have said sheets.

[Crist Rigotti]

I make up my wing trailing edges using 2 pieces of 3/16 x 3/8 6.8# balsa and 1 piece of 1/32 x 3/8 13.5# balsa.  The 1/32 wood is what I had laying around so I used it.  I've used anywhere from 6# to 15# 1/32 balsa.  The 1/32 balsa is used to from the hinge slots when I laminate the TE.  

On one piece of the 3/16 balsa I layout the hinge center and the mark the root location.  I then measure out 3/8 inch from each location to mark out each hinge slot.  I then cut the 1/32 balsa to length.  I use my 4 foot level and some wax paper and then I glue on the 1/32 pieces using medium ca.  Once that is done, medium CA is applied to the 1/32 pieces and the top piece of 3/16 is positioned and pinned in place till dry.  Note that I place the pins where the hinges will go so as not to interfere with the top piece when gluing.

When dry the TE piece is trimmed to the root mark and cleaned up a bit using my 2 foot sanding bar clamped in the vise.  

Then I draw a line 3/32 from the edge all along the trailing edge of the TE.  This mark is used as a guide when shaping the TE.  It assures symmetry and a straight TE.  This mark is just slightly "higher" than really needed but the last thing I want to do is "round" this piece.  I want it just a little high so when I glue on the TE sheeting I get a good tight fit.  You'll see in the other pictures later on what I mean.

Eagle eye people will notice that right at the root there isn't any 1/32 balsa.  This is done on each TE and the slot will be used to help align the wing halves when joining.  I'll use a small strip of 1/32 ply for that.
Each TE piece weighs 10 grams ready to glue on the foam wing panel.

[Crist Rigotti]

Now that the spars and the the foam LE are glued in, it's time to make up and install the false ribs for the landing gear.  I use 1/8 Lite-Ply for the ribs.  After cutting out and final sanding they are ready to install.

I use Pica-Gluit for foam and used masking tape to hold them into position.  

Once dry I then trim down the outboard end of the last piece of LE foam that needs to be glued in.  I trim the outboard edge because this will allow the most foam to be used and thus allow some sanding to smooth the entire rib/foam assembly.  Again Pica-Gluit was used and some masking tape was used.  As usual it was weighted in the cradles till dry.

I then sanded the whole assembly till smooth.

I then marked out the location of the aft edge of the landing gear plate.  I then drew another line 2" aft.  I also located the outer edges of the false ribs. These lines will be used to locate the cutout for the landing gear plate after sheeting.

[Crist Rigotti]

Time to mold the LE sheeting.

I soak the sheeting in the bathtub using only hot water - no ammonia.  While the sheet is soaking I lay out 2 strips of masking tape about 2 inches from each end of the sheet.  These strips will be used to "locate" the sheet on the form.  BTW, you really don't need a separate form.  You can use the wing itself only after you've installed the TE.  The balsa trailing edge will prevent the foam from collapsing from wrapping the sheeting to the foam.  Do this before you shape the TE.  This way if the wrapping does crush the wood TE slightly, it won't matter because you'll sand it away.

After the sheeting has soaked for about 20 to 30 minutes I remove it and scrape off the excess water with my fingers.  Then I wipe it with some paper towels.  I place the sheeting over the masking tape and position the mold form on the center line of the sheeting.  I then wrap the sheeting, from the LE aft up onto the form.  I then hold it in place with the masking tape.  I do the root end first.  Then I do the tip.  Once satisfied with the placement of the sheeting on the form, I wrap the the whole thing tightly using strips of bed sheet about 3 inches wide (thanks Al Rabe for this tip).  I use bed sheets instead of an ACE bandage because the bed sheets won't leave a weave pattern in the balsa wood like an ACE bandage does.  I usually clamp 1 end of the strip to my workbench and the start winding on the form from the root end first.  The wrapping is held in place with masking tape.

I then placed it into the oven set at 170 degrees to "bake".  I usually just place it over a hot air register but in the new house they are all in the ceiling.  I'll bake them for an hour or so.

[john e. holliday]

Crist, this is a great thread that I will have to keep track of.   

[Crist Rigotti]

Time to sand/shape the TE. First thing I do is run a piece of 1" masking tape about 1/4 inch forward of the TE.  This is used to protect the foam during sanding the TE.  I then use my Master Air Screw plane and plane down the TE just to the top of the ink line.  I then sand the TE/foam section till smooth using a 11" sanding bar being carefull not to "round" off the TE.  I want the TE straight to get a good joint when adding the TE sheeting.  I then remove the tape and do the final sanding down to the bottom of the line.  Flip the wing panel over and repeat.

[Crist Rigotti]

The next step I took was to draw out where the LE, TE, Center Section, and Tip sheeting go.  I used a ball point pen and just drew on the foam itself.  These will be my guidelines when sizing and attaching the sheeting.  I then placed the LE sheeting on the wing panel and marked the spar line and the root and tip rib locations.  I trimmed the sheet on the spar lines and just a little longer on the root and tip ribs.  Each LE sheet after trimming weighed 17 grams.  

I then mixed up about 3/4 ounce of my MGS 285 epoxy that I use to glue skins on the foam.  I got this stuff from work which was left over from a job we did.  I dribble the epoxy inside on either the top or bottom and I use my sheeting tool to spread it around on the one side.  This tool is 1/16 plywood about 3 inches wide with the corners rounded to prevent it from digging into the balsa wood.  I also file a 1/32 deep notched about every 3/16 inch using a small triangular file.  I then scrape all the epoxy I can off leaving small rivulets of epoxy.  Then I repeat the same for the other half.  I then weighed the sheeting to see how much epoxy I used.  I used 7 grams of epoxy.

I then placed the LE sheeting over the wing panel and used a straight pin (thanks Bob Hunt) to located the center line of the sheet to the center line of the the foam LE.  I then used 5 pieces of 1 inch masking tape to hold into position.  In the cradles they go with a piece of 1/16 balsa to shim the core in the cradle.  I used wax paper on each side of each wing panel.  Then weighted the whole shebang till the morning.

[Crist Rigotti]

The TE, tip, and center sheeting are all made from 7# 1/16 sheeting.  I trimmed the sheeting to size and then glued the 3 pieces together using CA.  I then trimmed each sheet to just a little over size.  I wet the sheeting that mated up to the LE and the LE sheeting too.  This will cause the the joint to be very tight when dry (thanks Bob Hunt). I then masked off where the sheeting will be overlapping the TE.  I used my MGS 285 epoxy and my spreading tool.  I then removed the masking tape and used Pica-Gluit to lay down some glue for the TE and on the LE joints.  I use the Pica-Gluit because it sands great and doesn't leave a hard edge.  I then placed it on the wing panel and used some masking tape to "pull" the LE joint tight.  Then the whole thing gets weighted down till morning.  The Sheeting weighed 17 grams per panel and I used 6 grams of glue per panel.

[Crist Rigotti]

I added the 1/16 x 1/4 cap strips today using 6# wood.  I used Pica Gluit and Tom Morris weights.  

[Crist Rigotti]

I sanded the cap strips and sheeting lightly and now for the tip weight box fabrication and installation.

The box is made from 1/8 Lit-Ply sides and 1/8 Birch ply bottom.  The side dimensions are 1 1/8 tall and either 1 or 7/8 inches wide.  These are glued using thin CA to form a rectangular box.  The long side will be butted up against the forward face of the spar.  I then trace this box onto the 1/8 Birch ply bottom.  I trim and then drill a 5/32 hole in the center for a 4-40 blind nut.  I glue on the bottom with then CA and sand the entire assembly smooth.  I then glue on a 1/64 ply skirt onto the top of the box.  The ply is 3/4 tall with a 3/8 overlap onto the box.

I then locate the forward face of the spar using pins pushed down from the top of the wing.  When located I invert the box and trace around the perimeter.  I then cut out this section.  I then dig out the foam underneath the box.  I then added a small 1/8 shim on the aft edge of the cutout for the box to sit onto.  This regulates how deep the box goes into the wing.  I try to have the aft 1/64 skirt just above the wing sheeting.  I then mix up some 5 minute epoxy and micro balloons.  I dab some in the bottom of the cutout and also on the front face of the spar.  I then push the box into the wing. I then use my Pica-Gluit around the skirt and the sheeting.  Do NOT use CA.  This will melt the foam away!  When dry I mask off the wing and sand down the skirt to the sheeting.

Continued on next post.

[Crist Rigotti]

I make the top using 1/8 5-ply Birch ply and 7# 3/8 sheet.  1/4 sheet would probably do.  I fit the 1/8 ply into the top of the box.  I then mark off the center and drill a 1/8 hole.  Then cut the 3/8 sheet over size and drill a 7/32 hole in the center.  Use medium CA and glue in 7/32 aluminum tubing into the hole.  When dry cut off the tubing and sand flush with the 3/8 sheet.  Use a 4-40 socket head screw to locate the 7/32 O.D. tubing over the hole in the 1/8 Birch ply cover.  Glue on the 3/8 sheet using medium CA.  Thrim the sheet flush with the outer edges of the cover.  Install into the weight box and I mark the airfoil shape on all 4 side.  I then use my disc sander to get the 3/8 sheet close.  Install the cover using the 4-40 screw and do a final sanding to match the airfoil.

On my cover I then lined each side with 1/32 bass wood to give and keep a nice crisp edge.  I'll Monokote the wing and I don't want to roll the edge.

[Crist Rigotti]

With the wing tips coming up I decided to make the adjustable lead out guide.  I used 3 pieces of 3/32 basswood.  The middle piece has the grain going vertical while the other 2 has the grain horizontal.  I use medium CA for this.  Once glued I draw a center line and lay out the holes for the eyelets on 1/4 inch centers.  I drill the holes and I create the slot using my band saw.  I then use a small piece of 1/64 ply to "plug" the slot on the end from the band saw blade entrance.  I then use 120 grit sandpaper to enlarge the slot so the lead outs can slide for the adjustment.  I then soak the holes and slot with thin CA.  The holes and slots are cleaned up and the guide is trimmed and sanded to final size.

[Crist Rigotti]

Time to do the landing gear mounts.  I basically followed Bob Hunt's method.

The base is 1/8 Lite-Ply with 1/8 basswood and balsa wood.  I used medium CA to build this.  I used some 1/2 x 3/8 hard maple and epoxied and clamped to dry over night.  I then trimmed the maple to size and installed the 4-40 blind nuts.  I then used a #30 drill for the 1/8 music wire landing gear.  I then chamfered the hole to accommodate the bend radius of the 1/8 music wire.  Then the assembly is epoxied into each wing panel.  When dry I installed a 3/8 balsa piece on the inboard end and a 1/4 balsa on the outboard end.  The forward and aft sides were lined with 1/8 balsa. These were glued in with Pica Gluit. I then made the removable hatch using 1/32 ply and 1/4 balsa.  I lined the the 4-40 screw holes with 7/32 O.D. aluminum tubing.  The hole thing was sanded down to match the airfoil.

[MarcusCordeiro]

Really cool!!!!

Marcus

[Crist Rigotti]

Thank you Marcus.

I cut 1 inch holes in each rib bay in each cored section to allow the air to flow around especially because I use Monokote on my wings. This is NOT done to reduce weight!  I layout the centers and place the my template on the center line and use an old 30 watt soldering pencil to go around the the template melting the foam as I go.  I do this for the top and bottom of each wing panel.

Total weight saved by doing this was 2 grams per panel.  Never cut out all the foam between the cap strips!  You will greatly weaken the foam wing and will only save a few grams.  The "return on investment" is not good!  I only cut the foam away as shown.  I could pierce each bay and get the same result of venting each bay.

[Crist Rigotti]

I use Tom Morris hardware for the push rods.  I also use 7/32 O.D. aluminum tubing as a ferrule to prevent the Cf push rod from splitting.

After measuring the CF tube to length I roughed up the ends with some 120 grit sandpaper.  I clean the CF tube and the threaded ends with rubbing alcohol.  I cut the ferrules 3/4 inch long.  I leave one end "rolled" over from the K&S tubing cutter that I have for the RH threaded ends and remove the "rolled" over end on the ferrule that will go on the LH threaded end.

I use JB Weld to glue each threaded end to the CF tube.  I use a round toothpick to spread some JB Weld in the inside and then on the the RH threaded end.  I then insert the RH threaded end into the CT tube.  I then spread the JB Weld around on the CF tube where the ferrule will go and also up onto the rounded portion of the RH threaded end.  I then put the ferrule over the RH threaded end and onto the CF tube.  The ferrule will cover the rounded portion and onto the CF tube.  I then wipe everything clean and inspect to be sure the RH threaded end is pushed all the way into the CF tube.

On the LH end of the elevator push rod I spread glue on the outside of the CF tube, then slide the ferrule onto the tube before I insert the LH threaded end.  It seems that the LH end is just slightly larger in diameter than the RH ends.  When all done I clean up the push rods and ensure that the ends have not push out and remain "seated" into the CF tube.  I let them dry overnight.

[wwwarbird]

 Full length turtledeck on this one Crist? I always thought that was a good look on your old one.

[Crist Rigotti]

Full length turtledeck on this one Crist? I always thought that was a good look on your old one.

Wayne,
I debated that option and I agree I like the look of a turtledeck.  But probably not because I want this to be pretty near what the prototype was.  Though, I'm not done with the fuse either!

[wwwarbird]

 Gotcha, at least we know what color it will be.

[Crist Rigotti]

Gotcha, at least we know what color it will be.

Like this maybe?

Yup, on the colors!

[wwwarbird]

 Yeah but I'd move the windscreen profile back a bit. Copying you're old one would be perfect IMO, right down to the canopy framework detail and overall paint scheme.

[Crist Rigotti]

Yeah but I'd move the windscreen profile back a bit. Copying you're old one would be perfect IMO, right down to the canopy framework detail and overall paint scheme.

Wayne, which airplane do you mean?

How's this, better?  I think so.

[Crist Rigotti]

Struggling a bit with the wing tips.  Should have those worked out tonight or tomorrow.  Stay tuned for pictures.

[wwwarbird]

Wayne, which airplane do you mean?

 The one you sold at Polk City a year or two ago, the top half of the fuse was solid red and the canopy outline was somewhat similar to a P-51B. I think it may have had an ST.51 in it?

[Crist Rigotti]

The wing tips are done except final detail sanding.  They were made up from 3 layers of 1/8 6.7# balsa.  These were laminated using medium CA and trimmed very close to the final outline.  The LO guide was then glued in using Pica Gluit.  Once dry the tips were glued on to each panel again using Pica Gluit.  Once dry I added some LE blocks and some TE filler from 1/8 sheet.  Once dry these were carved and sanded to the shape as shown. 

The struggle I had was whether I wanted to use the LE blocks or not.  I let it stew for awhile and decided on using them. 

I still need to elongate the outer most hinge slot that extends into each tip.

[Crist Rigotti]

I had a bell crank and lead out assembly form another airplane so I decided to use it.  My bell cranks are home made out of 1/8 phenolic with a 1/8 music wire post.  I triple up the thickness (3/8) where the post goes through the bell crank.  I used 1/16 annealed brass tubing to bush the LO .027 wire.  I also solder washers to center the bell crank on the post.  I bolt on the ball link using 4-40 hardware.

I then use 5 minute epoxy to glue it into position in the LH wing panel.  I already cut the wing panel for the flap push rod which will be inserted once the wing is glued into place in the fuselage.

[Crist Rigotti]

I carefully joined the wing panels tonight using 15 minute epoxy and a small amount of microballoons.

I then prepped the 6 circles of medium silkspan that will be used to reinforce the center section both top and bottom.  They are 4, 6 and 9 inches in diameter.  After cutting them out with my scalpel, I then "feather" the edge with an Emory board.  This is done to prevent a "hard" edge on the silkspan circle.  I'll lay down the 4 inch circle centered over the bell crank post, then the 6 inch circle centered over the bell crank post, then finally the 9 inch circle centered over the center section sheeting.

[Crist Rigotti]

Today I doped down the 3 silkspan circles on each side with SIG Nitrate dope.

I first thinned the nitrate dope 25%t that is 25% thinner 75% nitrate dope.  I then brushed on 2 coats onto the bare wood center section.  Each coat was followed by some light sanding with 320 grit sandpaper.  I then moistened the 4 inch circle and laid it flat over the bell crank post.  Then I brushed on 1 coat of nitrate dope.  Let it dry and sanded lightly, especially around the edges and applied the 2nd coat of nitrate dope.  When dry I sanded the edges to further feather them and then applied the 6 inch circle in like manner.  Then the 9 inch circle likewise.  Then added 1 more coat of nitrate dope to finish it off.  Once dry some more light sanding and it will be done.

[Crist Rigotti]

The wing is done being built.  Some minor detail sanding needs to be done just before covering.  The weight of the wing as shown is 295 grams.

[wwwarbird]

 Lookin' good Crist!

[Crist Rigotti]

Thanks Wayne.