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Author Topic: Build up wing for indoor flight  (Read 4133 times)

Offline Matt Piatkowski

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Build up wing for indoor flight
« on: November 15, 2016, 04:15:53 AM »
Hello,
I fly currently two indoor electric models (MP Bee1 and Wasp: see the attachment).
The third model shown, LGWII, with white fuselage and uniformly yellow wing, is the outdoor electric trainer for Cobra 2814/12.

MP Bee1 resembles Igor Burger's indoor Gee Bee, Wasp is modified 330 SC foamie (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXYSC1). Respective RTF weights are: 9.1 oz. for Bee and 7.8 oz. for 330 SC.

Bee's wing is stiff enough but 330 SC wing lacks torsional stiffness and twists during flights. I will add more carbon composite struts and this will fix the problem but I started thinking about build up 36" rectangular wing for the indoor foamies.

Such wing, with say 24% symmetrical airfoil, can be build as thin shell using 3 mm. grey Depron when it becomes available (http://www.rcfoam.com/depron-and-epp-foam-suppliers/depron-foam-sheet/). I have this material and it is more flexible than original white Depron Aero. After the sheet is properly heated with the covering iron, it can be carefully wrapped around balsa ribs and glued together. Such wing does not need spars and L.E and T.E beams - it will be sufficiently stiff and strong for the indoor flight having only ribs and the Depron shell. The grey Depron shell can be left uncovered and this will save some weight.

Building the indoor wing using the method described above may be a bit difficult and may require some form of fixture to temporarily hold the ribs in place while wrapping Depron but such wing will be much stiffer than flat Depron wings.

I wonder if anybody tried this method before and, if yes, what was the weight of the finished 36" wing?

Thank you,
Matt

Offline Kim Doherty

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #1 on: November 16, 2016, 09:23:34 AM »

MP Bee1 resembles Igor Burger's indoor Gee Bee, Wasp is modified 330 SC foamie (http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?I=LXYSC1). Respective RTF weights are: 9.1 oz. for Bee and 7.8 oz. for 330 SC.

Bee's wing is stiff enough but 330 SC wing lacks torsional stiffness and twists during flights. I will add more carbon composite struts and this will fix the problem but I started thinking about build up 36" rectangular wing for the indoor foamies.

Such wing, with say 24% symmetrical airfoil, can be build as thin shell using 3 mm. Such wing does not need spars and L.E and T.E beams - it will be sufficiently stiff and strong for the indoor flight having only ribs and the Depron shell. The grey Depron shell can be left uncovered and this will save some weight.

Building the indoor wing using the method described above may be a bit difficult and may require some form of fixture to temporarily hold the ribs in place while wrapping Depron but such wing will be much stiffer than flat Depron wings.

I wonder if anybody tried this method before and, if yes, what was the weight of the finished 36" wing?

Thank you,
Matt


Hi Matt,

First I would say that your models are too heavy in general. You would be more successful if you used equipment designed for indoor flight. (eg. ESC)

A built up wing is far too heavy (the depron wing surface represents almost half the bare bones airframe weight). Doubling it will require faster lap times to generate enough lift. On short lines the lap speed would be pretty high. Especially if you are just learning to fly the pattern. Stick with flat plate airfoils.

You will find that you NEED drag to fly in control. You will also need lots of out thrust by angling the wing to fuselage and side force generators. Actual model speed in a well flown indoor pattern will SCARE YOU !! they are (and need to be) so slow.

To stiffen up the leading edge just use some .007 carbon uni sheet and glue along the leading edge.

For stiffening use triangulated .5mm carbon rod.

You should spend some time reviewing the F3P (Indoor R/C Pattern) forums. There is much to be gained from studying weights and equipment selection.

http://xavier.mouraux.com/indoor/f3p-canada.html

https://www.rcgroups.com/indoor-pattern-f3p-373/?s=56df4b2404c0e83180027b225169ddd6&

http://www.pauzuolis-rc.com/rc-blog/donatas-designal-victory-1s


You may not use all of the techniques in these threads but they will provide you with a base of understanding of materials and design.

Kim.

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #2 on: November 16, 2016, 11:47:21 AM »
Hi Matt, airfoiled wing will not work well in slow indoor flight. The reson is called critical reynolds number. If you are curiouse, try google. The point is that flat wings does not have any critical reynolds number, they fly the same slow of quick.

Kim is right, the weight is high, but unlike R/C with counterprops, we need some weight, looks like 180 to 200g is good weight for models of that size. I tried to make it lighter with smaller battery and motor, but I did not get anything better flying, reason was too low line tension, simply I was not satisfied with lighter model.

Regarding stifness - you have to use either reinforcing like I have on my GeeBee (foam plate - it will give also little bit area), or you can use also carbon rods, but they have to be organized so, that they do not allow wing flexing (that mentioned triagles, not rectagles etc), it is not bad to look to real GB, it has also such things.

We fly lap times aproximately 5.3 ... some of us 5.5 and some 5.0, I will attach my old vide showing speed on 5m lines



Offline Matt Piatkowski

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #3 on: November 16, 2016, 02:21:29 PM »
Hi Kim,
Hi Igor,
Wasp's wing has been fixed and is sufficiently stiff. The weight penalty: 12 grams. I am flying my toys this coming Saturday and will share the results.
Lap times were 5.1 and 5.2 seconds on 5.22 m. lines (eye to eye) but I will increase slightly the RPM to get a bit more lines tension because I am ok with 4.9 or even 4.8 sec. laps.

Just for fun, I will build the airfoiled wing for my next indoor model and we will see.
If the thing falls from the sky, I will know that the particular solution of the Navier-Stokes for this particular flight regime was wrong. If not, I am convinced I will have fun with it.   

Igor: do you have active website? If yes...could you please send me a link.

Thanks,
Matt
matt.piatkowski@gmail.com



 


Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #4 on: November 16, 2016, 02:33:18 PM »
I have Maxbee page here:

http://maxbee.net/index/index.htm

But if you mean home page for indoors, then here is link to Tania's home page:

http://www.indoorgeebee.com/

But there are also "more alive"  ;D FB pages which we update more often:

https://www.facebook.com/MaxBee-363984487112995/

https://www.facebook.com/IndoorGeeBee/


 

Offline Matt Piatkowski

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #5 on: November 19, 2016, 08:44:13 AM »
Hi Igor,
I have just returned from my morning indoor stunt session.
Results:
1. Both planes fly 4.5-4.6 sec. laps and I am ok. with that at this moment.
2. Both planes fly the Wingover, inverted level flight, inside loops, inside squares and triangles well.
3. The outside loops are very unstable, the planes wobble and try "to fall on me", loosing the remaining lines tension.
I did not try other maneuvers.

The wings in both planes are sufficiently stiff, straight and do not twist in flight therefore I started suspecting the torque exerted on the models.

Both planes use 10x4.7 APCE pusher props. Launch RPM ~4,600.

The thrust angle is 0.0 degrees.

Igor,
I know that 4 deg. down thrust is used in many Bees using the normal props.
I believe you recommended 4 deg. up thrust when the pusher props are used.

Could you comment, please?

It is also possible that the gyroscopic moment of propeller ( http://supercoolprops.com/articles/gyrovibes.php) plays the major role in this what I called "wobbling" and "falling on me".  Simply put: at the top of the first outside loop, when the lines tension is smaller than in the level flight, the combination of torque and the gyroscopic moment of propeller may create such behavior.

Comment: I have to double check the direction and the estimated value of the gyroscopic moment of the pusher propeller in the outside loops. It is possible that this moment is small compared to the torque exerted on the models.

If this is so, the motor torque must be somehow reacted using the geometric ( thrust angle) or/and aerodynamic means (ailerons?).

I would be grateful for your recommendations.
Regards,
Matt


Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #6 on: November 19, 2016, 09:08:59 AM »
Igor,
I know that 4 deg. down thrust is used in many Bees using the normal props.
I believe you recommended 4 deg. up thrust when the pusher props are used.


I think so, but I have never tried pusher ind that configuration

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #7 on: November 19, 2016, 09:16:10 AM »
The thrust angle is 0.0 degrees.


I use little bit trust out, but most of line tension overhead comes from fuselage yawed out by aproximately 20 degrees (centrifugal force is small fraction of model weight, so it is not able to keep tight lines) - means LO guide must be designed so. Also the nose area is oversized, so as model slows, fuselage yaws out, motor offset is there to do it. Result is that model keeps line tension also on top of wingover even if model stops - many experienced pilots first time flying those models expect that model will fall down, but it does not, pilots learned to "believe" it ... it will simply go, just wait :- )))

Offline Igor Burger

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #8 on: November 19, 2016, 09:21:39 AM »

If this is so, the motor torque must be somehow reacted using the geometric ( thrust angle) or/and aerodynamic means (ailerons?).

That is real problem, while precession is relatively easy to deal with, the reaction torque of 10" prop on such small model, is difficult to compensate. Yes you can twist wing to keep it in level in normal flight, but when you slow down, reaction torque will be much stronger and aerodynamic compensation weaker, so it will "fall in" in negative maneuvers, the only way is to create artifical line tension which will keep wing and lines paralel - means cancel effect of that reaction torque.

Offline Matt Piatkowski

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #9 on: November 19, 2016, 12:13:50 PM »
Hi Igor,
Both models have the build in yaw angle ~15 degrees.
Clarification: This angle is measured from the inside wing spar to the line connecting the bellcrank rotation axis with the LO. The wings spars are perpendicular to the fuselage axis.

Both model clearly yaw out approaching the top of the outside loop but, at the same time, they both roll inside.

Clarification: rolling inside means that the inside wing goes even lower and the planes start "sliding" sideways towards the ground. This is really surprising as the moment exerted by the motor on the fuselage has the opposite direction (!).

This is what I will do: I will yaw the motor outside, say, 4 degrees, I will add some surface area to the portion of fuselages in front of the C.G and test next Saturday.

Cheers,
M




Offline Matt Piatkowski

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Re: Build up wing for indoor flight
« Reply #10 on: December 28, 2016, 04:53:06 AM »
Merry Christmas and the Best 2017 to Everybody!

I did not touch the motors yaw angle. This angle is zero degrees w/r to the fuselage longitudinal axis.
1. I have increased the surface area of the front portion of Wasp's fuselage by 4 sq.in.
2. I have removed the air brakes from both models.
3. I have added the outside wings Depron ailerons ( 3 sq.in.) that are bent down ~7 degrees.
4. I have replaced the prop.saver style mounts (with rubber o-ring) with the collet style, aluminum prop.adapters.

I did these changes in the order listed above and flight tested both models after each change flying the outside loops and vertical eights.
1. Had positive effect
2. Had strong positive effect: the turbulent wake was adversely affecting the tail surfaces. Now, both models react in the predictable manner to the smallest elevator movement on top of the outside loops
3. Had very strong positive effect. Now, the motor torque is reacted by the aerodynamic moment. I was wrong with my free body diagram and confused myself.
Comment: because the aerodynamic moment is the function of velocity, it weakens on top of the outside loops but the remaining moment is sufficient to prevent the excessive inside rolling motion of both models. The tendency to roll inside is still there when and if I almost stall the models but "normal size" outside loops look and feel fine now.
4. Very strong positive effect. The gyroscopic moment of the propellers in sharp corners that was stretching the rubber o-rings is reacted now by the motor shaft.
The buzzing sound that could be heard while executing such corners disappeared. This sound was caused by the propellers rattling on the ring of the prop.mount when the o-ring was stretching and contracting. Comment: this behavior appeared when I started flying sharp corners. Sharp corners have higher pitch angular velocity, therefore the gyroscopic moment exceeded the "holding" strength of rubber o-rings.

I have also increased the flight time of both models to 5 minutes with my 2S 800 mAh batteries used only ~60% and the no load (after landing) voltages about 3.79V per cell.

Comment: with 4.6 sec. laps on 5 meter long lines, both models are faster than typical indoor bees. The way they fly is much closer to the outside C/L stunt models and I am finding this very useful for my pattern practice.

Please go to: https://www.youtube.com/my_videos?o=U to see my flights.

Regards,
M


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