Author Topic: 2016 Electric Stunter Build Log (Read 64657 times)

john e. holliday · « **Reply #150 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:31:25 PM »

Ilnow some think it is dull;ooking, but haven't seen a Blue Angels scheme seen Larry Scarinzi's Blue Angel.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #151 on:** January 31, 2016, 03:51:57 PM »

Quote from: Crist Rigotti on January 27, 2016, 09:31:05 PM

OK guys, here's your chance on some feedback that I'm asking for. I'm trying to decide the color scheme for this airplane. It will be red, white, and blue.

I'll show 2 schemes I'm considering and let me know which one you like the best. If you don't want to post here, them PM me what you think.

The first picture is what I've used in the past and I call it my traditional scheme. Many of my airplanes had it and it was well received.

The second picture is of my Legacy 40 from this year in the Air Force Thunderbirds color scheme. I've used this scheme on my jet models and carried it over to the Legacy 40.

Let me know what you think.

Thanks.

Of the two I like the scheme on the Agenda, fits the airplane design well. I'm also going to suggest not doing the chrome L/E thing.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #152 on:** January 31, 2016, 06:59:46 PM »

OK guys. Thanks for your comments.

I'll go with the Agenda color scheme.

Stay tuned.

Thanks.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #153 on:** February 02, 2016, 08:51:00 AM »

Just a quick update. Working on getting the parts covered with Monokote.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #154 on:** February 02, 2016, 09:48:04 PM »

Whitie Tighties!

On to the trim, then hinging.

Dane Martin · « **Reply #155 on:** February 02, 2016, 10:20:22 PM »

Now that looks great! This is coming along really quick for scratch building it. Thanks for keeping the pics coming.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #156 on:** February 04, 2016, 12:24:16 PM »

The Monokote trim has been applied. I use the Windex method. I spray some Windex where the trim will be and on the trim piece too. Then the trim is positioned in place and I use a paper towel to smooth the trim piece out. I can make some minor placement adjustments using this method. I let it "dry" overnight and then seal each trim piece with my sealing iron set to "1.5". The LG covers and tip weight box are also done.

On to hinging and some pin striping.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #157 on:** February 04, 2016, 03:24:10 PM »

Hinge time.

I use the discontinued Klett hinges. Yeah, I stocked up on plenty from hobby stores and eBay.

I use Pacer 560 glue to glue in the hinges. I use .032 wire threaded through the barrel on 1/2 of the hinge. For example, the stab uses 3 hinges on each elevator. I always hinge the movable part first (flaps or elevators). I put 3 hinges on the .032 music wire. BTW the music wire has a 90 degree bend on one end to help removed the wire once the hinge glue has set up. I always put the hinges so that the outer most "barrel" is toward the tip of the flap/elevator. This is to help when doing the final assembly, to align the .025 music wire hinge pin. You can move the flap/elevator up/down to help the wire find the barrel.

I use one of those "pulled" CA applicators to squirt the Pacer 560 glue into the hinge slot. A couple of good squirts usually does it. I don't fill the slot. The hinge takes up most of the slot and then you have a lot of ooze out and then you're cleaning up the extra glue. Gets to be a real pain. Once the glue is in the slots, I then insert the root hinge, then the rest out to the tip. I align the hinge in the slot and then make sure the .032 wire just barely touches the LE of the flap/elevator. Don't push too hard on the hinge or you'll deform the wire. You want to keep it straight along the LE. Set aside to dry.

When the flap/elevator side is hinged, I then "marry" them to the wing/stab TE. Another post regarding that.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #158 on:** February 04, 2016, 08:00:03 PM »

I did the "inking" this evening. I use Black Super Monokote and slice out each line with my scalpel. Each line is about 1/32 thick. I found I could even do 1/64 thick line this way if I wanted to. I mark the flap/elevator where I want the lines to go and then tack it in place with my sealing iron set to about 2. Once in place, I then press the line firmly with my iron and the trim the line. Another firm press all over the line and we're done. A little wiping with alcohol to clean up the fine line Sharpie and now we're done.

I did the final hinging too. The steps I take are:

1) I trim the stab hinges to fit the 1/2 wide TE. The hinges are about 3/4 long so I trim off about 1/4 inch.
2) I then slip the .032 wire into the tip hinge on an elevator.
3) I then add the stab half and insert the wire through the hinge assembly.
4) Push the wire toward the root to the next hinge and repeat adding the stab half until all the hinges are added. 3 in my case.
5) I do the same for the other elevator.
6) I then dry fit the elevators to the stab with the horn.
7) When satisfied all is good, I then remove one elevator and squirt the Pacer 560 glue into the slot. Not too much here because the hinge slot is enclosed in the stab TE because of the CF.
8 ) I then install the elevator on the horn, then the root hinge through the tip. Wiping up all of the ooze out.
9) I then use thin strips of tape to ensure a tight hinge gap. I'll be adding some tape later on to seal the hinge gap at a later time.
10) Then the other elevator like wise.

Ditto for the flaps except the hinges didn't need trimming down. The excess length just went through the TE. If I remember the hinge slot on the wing TE was 1/2 long too.

On some of the pictures below, I just used some printed paper letters and numbers to see how it will look when done.

Tomorrow I'll add the correct hinge pins of .025 music wire and then on to installing the wing.

Shawn Lenci · « **Reply #159 on:** February 05, 2016, 02:17:24 PM »

Crist,

So you when you assemble and fly the airplane the Klett hinges will have .025" wire in them and not the .032"? Just checking. Is there any kind of issue with slop in the controls? I can see where the hinges would be incredibly free with the .007" clearance between the hole diameter and the wire diameter. I wouldn't think of doing this on an R/C airplane but then again the controls are usually driven by a horn on the side or middle of the control surface and not from the end like on a stunter. I can see where the smaller wire diameter may not be an issue when the surface is driven from the end.

I just finished a Trophy Trainer last year and used the Kletts with a solid piece of wire running through the hinges. I used the .032" like the original pins, I did not think to use a smaller diameter. Let me know your thoughts.

Shawn

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #160 on:** February 05, 2016, 06:38:06 PM »

Quote from: Shawn Lenci on February 05, 2016, 02:17:24 PM

Crist,

So you when you assemble and fly the airplane the Klett hinges will have .025" wire in them and not the .032"? Just checking. Is there any kind of issue with slop in the controls? I can see where the hinges would be incredibly free with the .007" clearance between the hole diameter and the wire diameter. I wouldn't think of doing this on an R/C airplane but then again the controls are usually driven by a horn on the side or middle of the control surface and not from the end like on a stunter. I can see where the smaller wire diameter may not be an issue when the surface is driven from the end.

I just finished a Trophy Trainer last year and used the Kletts with a solid piece of wire running through the hinges. I used the .032" like the original pins, I did not think to use a smaller diameter. Let me know your thoughts.

Shawn

Shawn,
Yes, I use .025 wire as the hinge pin. I haven't noticed any slop. Remember that the flap is 26 inches long and there are 6 hinges. Really no slop at all. Also remember that I use tape to seal the hinge line on both flaps and elevators. I don't think most R/C ships have there hinge lines sealed with tape. Where the horn is has noting to do with using .025 wire.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #161 on:** February 05, 2016, 08:07:54 PM »

When he gets it done as well as test flights, maybe put this all on a disc for us to add to our library. Learning some new stuff from this Crist. Texas must be good for you.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #162 on:** February 05, 2016, 10:37:36 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 05, 2016, 08:07:54 PM

When he gets it done as well as test flights, maybe put this all on a disc for us to add to our library. Learning some new stuff from this Crist. Texas must be good for you.

Thank you Doc. It's here for all to see and learn. Once in awhile, I refer to a previous build log of mine to see how I did it!

Guled the wing in tonight. Tomorrow I'll add pictures.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #163 on:** February 06, 2016, 01:33:01 PM »

Let's get the wing in this thing!

The first thing to do was to cut out the bulkheads for the wing. Once that was done, I enlarged the fuselage cut out on the outboard side near the LE. It really didn't take too much. Once I could get the wing in the fuselage I installed the flaps and "shimmed" them with 1/8 balsa on each side of the fuselage. This locates the TE tip to tip distance. You have to have the horn in place but not glued yet. I measured out from the center of the wing equal distance and made a mark with a fine line Sharpie. I then used a tape measure pinned to the tail post to get equal reading to the marks on the wing TE. I then marked the fuselage sides both top and bottom. I removed the wing and then cut "VEE" notches in the Monokote to give a good gluing surface. The point of each "VEE" is equal to the outside of the fuselage. The wing was inserted into the fuselage and the ailerons were once again attached and shimmed to locate the TE. I then used the tape measure to get the wing straight in the fuselage. I also used some 1/2 maple motor stock at the tips to ensure the wing was level with the top of the fuselage. BTW, all this is done with the top of the fuselage on the bench with the nose section overhanging the edge so it will lie flat on the bench. Once satisfied with the wing position, I use some thin CA to tack it into place. One final check and then I use medium CA along the inside of the fuselage to lock the wing in place. When cured, I flip the airplane over and CA the top of the wing. Another final check and all is well!

I then cut a "filler" for the LE from some 1/16 stock and glued it in with thin CA.

I used some CF tow to secure the flap horn bushing in place along with some thin CA. Once that is cured and the flap horn is secured, I removed the flaps.

I then fiber glassed the center section, top and bottom. I used 1 1/2 oz. FG and my MGS 285 epoxy. I cut each section of FG to 1/2 inch overlap up the fuselage side and each bulkhead. I then use 3M 77 to spray a very, very, very, light dusting on one side of the FG. This is done so aid in positioning the FG on the center section. Once positioned, I use a acid brush to apply the epoxy. I use a little excess and the brush to force the epoxy into the joint between the wing and the fuselage. Once the section is all epoxied up I then blot the excess epoxy with a small sheet of toilet paper folded over several times. I blot the epoxy up till there are no more "shiny" spots. Shiny spots are "pools" of epoxy and all they do is add weight. Once the top and bottom have cured, I trimmed the FG cloth and cut it away from the push rod opening in the top of the wing.

Up next, the controls.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #164 on:** February 06, 2016, 06:00:01 PM »

For the controls, I install the flap push rod into the bell crank ball link. It's a bit tedious, but it can be done. I've done this on most of my full fuselage models and had to cut a hole in the sheeting only once. Once the push rod is installed the length is adjusted for neutral. When making up the fuselage sides I drill a 1/16 hole in the fuselage along the wing center line just aft of the flap horn. This is my neutral set point.

The elevator push rod is next. I get it close to the correct length and the ball links are inline with each other, I insert it through the bottom most aft of the fuselage. It is then bolted to the flap horn and the to the elevator horn. On the elevator horn I use a slider horn. You'll notice the placement of the washers. 1 under the head of the socket head screw to act as a "keeper" if the ball link comes apart and 1 on either side of the slider horn. Do not omit the washers on each side of the slide. Without them, the slider part will spread open due to the ball link and you'll have a control failure.

The stab is then inserted into the fuselage and the elevators are installed. They are shimmed with 1/8 balsa on each side of the fuselage to set the stab TE and then I measure from the flap hinge line to the stab hinge line at each stab tip and when they are the same, the stab is pinned in place. A quick check of the controls and then I mark the stab Monokote so I can trim it before the stab gets glued to the fuselage.

When all is well, I apply a small drop of J-B Weld epoxy to the flap horn side of the push rod hardware.

The stab is then removed and the Monokote is trimmed. The stab will be glued in at a later date when the fuselage is covered with 2/10 CF.

On to closing up the fuselage.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #165 on:** February 06, 2016, 06:23:46 PM »

With the controls done, I closed up the fuselage.

I wet the edges of the fuselage and the "blocks" so that when they dry, it will result in a nice tight glue line. I used Pica Gluit to join the molded pieces to the fuselage because it sands well and won't leave a "bump". They are "clamped" to the fuselage using masking tape.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #166 on:** February 07, 2016, 07:29:17 AM »

Thanks Crist, I put the wing into the B-25 and used the flaps to get the wing centered. Spot glued using CA. Once I seen all was straight I used more CA. Then I mixed up the poly-fil and filled the joint. Amazing how this stuff stays in place. Must have read this procedure on one of your other builds. Thanks. Didn't realize how big this thing is, thanks again.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #167 on:** February 07, 2016, 01:19:19 PM »

Doc,
It does make sense to use the flaps to center the TE of the wing doesn't it?

Today I cut out the tail wheel well.

I locate the center line and where I want it to be fore and aft. I measure the front and the back, in my case 1 3/4 inches.

I then used a 1/2 brass tubing sharpened to cut the holes at either end, centered on the center line. I then connect the holes using a ruler and scalpel. I then dry fit the 1/64 wall and mark the parting edge and the around the perimeter to get the right height. I then trim the ply wall and glue it in place using thin CA.

When dry, I'll sand the edges flush with the bottom sheeting.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #168 on:** February 09, 2016, 07:32:17 PM »

I have been detail sanding the fuselage and pieces getting them to be ready to cover with the CF veil. I have been using some Aeropoxy Lite to do some of the filling so it takes a day between coats. In a few days it should be ready to start the finishing phase. Details, details......

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #169 on:** February 11, 2016, 04:05:31 PM »

This afternoon I started to do the finish. A quick summary of what it'll be. I use SIG dope and DuPont 3608S voc thinner. I'll use Nitrate for the base coats because it helps keep the CF "stuck" to the fuselage. I'll use Nitrate through the filler coats. Then I switch to Butyrate. For the clear I use SIG Lite-Coat.

I'm applying the first several coats of Nitrate clear thinned 2/1 dope/thinner to the bare balsa. I'll do at least 2 coats, but probably do 3 because I thinned it out. I'm really amazed how just a few coats of dope will start to change the "feel" or "texture" of the balsa wood! It starts to take on that "plastic" quality.

When done with these 2 or 3 coats I'll weigh and report of the weight gain. As a matter of fact, I'll report throughout the finishing process what the weights are. It's a good reference.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #170 on:** February 11, 2016, 08:10:02 PM »

OK, the 3 coats of 2/1 Nitrate have dried and sanded lightly with dry 600 grit. Total weight gain was 4 grams. On to the CF veil.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #171 on:** February 12, 2016, 01:02:26 PM »

The 2/10 CF veil is on! I used 3/1 thinner/nitrate dope to apply. Where I could I put some dope on the wood then put the CF on top of that. Then brushed it liberally. A quick trim with some 400 grit sandpaper. The CF feels like velvet! Weight added was 3 grams total. Total weight of finish - 7 grams.

Next up 2 coats of 2/1 dope/thinner.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #172 on:** February 12, 2016, 07:33:43 PM »

Tonight I put on 2 coats of 50/50 Nitrate/thinner. After the first coat, I dry sanded it with 320 grit to help smooth the surface. Past experience taught me to sand it after 1 coat and not to wait till after the 2nd coat. If I wait till after the 2nd coat, the CF gets real hard and it is a lot harder to sand smooth. So I sand some now and then again when the 2nd dries. Maybe tomorrow because I have a contest in Dallas Saturday.

After sanding the 2nd coat, I'll install the stab, fin, and fit the canopy. After that the fillets.

Here are some pics after the 2nd coat has been applied but not sanded. Once sanded, I'll weigh the parts.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #173 on:** February 14, 2016, 07:56:24 PM »

Today I got the stab, fin, and canopy glued in.

I aligned the stab TE using shims between the elevators and the fuselage. Then I measured from the wing TE to the stab aft most edge on the TE. When these were equal, I lined up the stab tips to the top of the wing to get the stab level. After triple checking, I used some thin CA to tack it into place. Once I was satisfied, more thin CA along with some medium CA. To aid in gluing the stab in, I cut the fin slot into the top aft portion of the fuselage. I could then get down on the inside of the fuselage where the stab goes through. I then epoxied in the elevator horn bushings. When everything was set up, I removed the elevators.

I then fit the fin to the fuselage. I notched the bottom of the fin to go "over" the bulkhead at the stab LE. I then notched the aft portion of the fin TE to fit the fuselage because of the taper of the fuselage. I then used my triangle to "square" up the fin and glued it to the top of the stab with Pica Gluit and then CA along the fuselage top.

I then trimmed the canopy to fit. I use a 1/4 thick bulkhead to act as a "shelf" for the aft portion of the canopy. I used some 1/2 brass tubing to cut a vent hole in the top skin. I roughed up the canopy with some 80 grit sandpaper and epoxied the canopy in place. I used some masking tape as clamps.

Tomorrow I blend in the canopy and start the fillets!

Oh, BTW, the 2 coats of 50/50 Nitrate dope and sanded added 6 grams to the model. Total weight added for the finish so far is 13 grams.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #174 on:** February 15, 2016, 10:06:38 AM »

I still love your detail work. But, will it be too light for those Texas breezes?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #175 on:** February 15, 2016, 10:41:28 PM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 15, 2016, 10:06:38 AM

I still love your detail work. But, will it be too light for those Texas breezes?

Doc,
Those Texas breezes can be a bit trying! Stay tuned for the "rest of the story...."

The detail work has been done and now onto the fillets.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #176 on:** February 16, 2016, 06:58:32 PM »

The fillets are done. I did them the same way as I do all my fillets. I outlined the way in my Legacy 40 build log found here:

http://stunthanger.com/smf/gettin-all-amp'ed-up!/legacy-40-electric-a-build-log/msg398194/#msg398194

The fillets added a whopping 3 grams! Ya gotta love Aeropoxy Lite. Not only light, but strong too!

Tomorrow I'll sand the fillets then brush on some Nitrate on them directly. Then on to the filler coats.

wwwarbird · « **Reply #177 on:** February 16, 2016, 09:52:54 PM »

I've never tried Aeropoxy Lite, does it sand as easily as the blue Aero Fil? Looking at the photos the Aeropoxy reminds me of the old Sig Epoxolite, that stuff was like trying to sand a piece of granite.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #178 on:** February 16, 2016, 11:46:27 PM »

Quote from: wwwarbird on February 16, 2016, 09:52:54 PM

I've never tried Aeropoxy Lite, does it sand as easily as the blue Aero Fil? Looking at the photos the Aeropoxy reminds me of the old Sig Epoxolite, that stuff was like trying to sand a piece of granite.

Wayne,
I think the Aeropoxy Lite is harder to sand then Aero Fil. I've never used Aero Fil. I do think I remember reading that Aeropoxy Lite is much more structurally stronger than Aero Fil, so I would expect Aero Fil to sand easier. Yes, Aeropoxy Lite sure looks like SIG Epoxolite.

Because Aeropoxy is harder to sand, I try to get it as smooth as possible. Aeropoxy Lite does not sand like "a piece of granite." If you look carefully, you'll see where I used it on the turtle deck to help take care of some "waviness". It sanded quite well and didn't load up the sandpaper either.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #179 on:** February 17, 2016, 10:29:39 AM »

The fillets are sanded. I use a radius tool that I made up from some 1/8 Lite-Ply and 3/16 dowel. I wrap some 320 grit sand paper around the dowel and up onto the Lite-Ply where I hold onto the tool and do my sanding. I also use some rolled up sandpaper where needed.

Once sanded I wipe them clean with acetone. Then using a touch up brush, I apply some Nitrate dope to the fillets. I do this to keep the finish from blistering. The Nitrate dope helps keep the dope stuck to the fillets.

Next up the filler coats.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #180 on:** February 17, 2016, 07:27:29 PM »

I applied 2 filler coats and sanded them off today. The filler coats were 50/50 Nitrate dope/thinner with a Tablespoon of Zinc Sterate added. The first coat was brushed on, and when dry, sanded off. Then the 2nd coat was brushed on and again sanded off. The model was dusted off and weighed. The difference was 2 grams!

Tonight I'm doing the last of the Nitrate dope. I'm brushing on 2 coats of 40/60 dope/thinner to "seal" the model. These will be lightly sanded then at least 1 or 2 coats of SIG Lite-Coat clear will be brushed on, then sanded lightly. Hopefully from there I can spray the gray blocking coat.

Getting there. Weight added for the finish so far is 15 grams.

I know there will be a lot of glazing putty used on this model. Lots of dents and such will need to be filled.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #181 on:** February 18, 2016, 09:41:45 AM »

The late Rusty Brown told me to never brush the carbon dust off after sanding. He stated it help fill the weave with another coat of dope.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #182 on:** February 18, 2016, 10:03:33 AM »

Quote from: john e. holliday on February 18, 2016, 09:41:45 AM

The late Rusty Brown told me to never brush the carbon dust off after sanding. He stated it help fill the weave with another coat of dope.

Makes sense!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #183 on:** February 18, 2016, 10:44:01 AM »

I sanded the last of the Nitrate coats off today with some 600 grit. Weight added by these 2 "sealer" coats of Nitrate was 2 grams. Total so far is 17 grams.

Onto brushing on 2 coats of butyrate SIG Lite-Coat clear to get the model ready for the grey blocking coat.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #184 on:** February 18, 2016, 07:04:40 PM »

I brushed on 2 coats of SIG clear Lite-Coat dope thinned to about 40/60 dope/thinner. I then applied 3 more coats of about 25/75 dope thinner. The model now has a nice shine to it. The next thing to do is to wet sand the clear with 600 grit to prep it for the grey blocking coats. As a matter of fact all sanding from now on will be wet sanding. These clear coats added 4 grams. Total weight from bare balsa to now is 21 grams.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #185 on:** February 20, 2016, 07:50:43 PM »

I shot 1 blocker coat tonight. I used SIG white and a little Jet Black dope and DuPont 3608Svoc thinner. I'm guessing that the ratio was 35/65 dope/thinner. Actually I ran out of dope before I could finish the right side of the fin.

Tomorrow I'll start filling the dents and such with automotive glazing putty.

The weight gain on this coat was 7 grams. 28 grams so far.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #186 on:** February 20, 2016, 09:26:12 PM »

OK, I started filling the dents tonight!

Sina Goudarzi · « **Reply #187 on:** February 21, 2016, 03:24:35 AM »

Crist
thank so much for sharing these info on line, I follow this with open eye and excitement. It's a great learning opportunity for me.

Could you advise about how to deal with the paint neighboring with film, or gluing the fuse to the wing while there is film around the area.

many thanx in advance,

sina

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #188 on:** February 21, 2016, 05:31:58 PM »

Quote from: Sina Goudarzi on February 21, 2016, 03:24:35 AM

Crist
thank so much for sharing these info on line, I follow this with open eye and excitement. It's a great learning opportunity for me.

Could you advise about how to deal with the paint neighboring with film, or gluing the fuse to the wing while there is film around the area.

many thanx in advance,

sina

Sina,

Good to hear from you! I had the pleasure of judging your nephew last weekend. It was great!

First I'll deal with the film covering where the wing/stab meets the fuselage. I insert the wing and line it up. Then I use a fine line Sharpie to mark the top and bottom of the wing along the fuselage. Then I remove the wing and measure about every 3/8 or 1/2 inch along the line just made. I then use my scalpel and cut small triangles toward the center of the wing. Once the top and bottom are done, I go over the Monokote with the sealing iron to be sure it is stuck down real well. In the pictures you can see what the wing will look like with the triangles cut into the Monokote. BTW, the Monokote only goes into the fuselage about 3/8 inch. I then insert the wing, line it up and glue it in.

Concerning the paint line on the Monokote. I run some masking tape just to the outside of the fillet and do the filler and grey coats. Before the white goes on, I re-mask the line but just a little further out about 1/32 inch. This is because you want the white to cover the grey edge that was along the masking tape. Then when I do the clear coats, I re-mask the line again about 1/32 further out to be sure all the color is covered with clear. This has worked real well with the nitro engines and of course no problems at all with electric.

Hope this helps and take care.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #189 on:** February 21, 2016, 08:50:56 PM »

Quote from: Motorman on February 21, 2016, 08:18:13 PM

It looks like you glued the fuselage to monokote and the only thing really holding it is the fiberglass? Why didn't you go for a wood to wood joint?

MM

I've done it this way for at least 10 years without any problems. So I stick with what I know works.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #190 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:05:16 AM »

I like it Crist and why change some thing that works.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #191 on:** February 22, 2016, 10:58:49 AM »

After a couple of days of glazing, sanding, glazing, sanding, etc I decided that I need to put on another coat of grey to really see how it looks. But instead I decided to spray on some of Sparky's DC 540 grey primer first. Here's the results. When dry I'll wet sand it with some 600 grit and see what it looks like.

More later today.

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #192 on:** February 22, 2016, 03:45:52 PM »

All sanded down and ready for the white. I left "a lot" of the primer on the model. I sanded it down till I could just see the grey dope that I sprayed on the other night. The glazing putty ( there was a lot of it!) and the DC540 primer added another 14 grams. So from when the fillets were done till now added 23 grams. More than I would like but the effort and weight gain was worth it. Total weight from bare balsa to now is 44 grams. My budget is 70 grams. 15 grams for the white, 5 grams for the red, 3 grams for the blue, 15 grams for the clear. That should put me over budget by 12 grams......we'll see how it turns out.

Curare · « **Reply #193 on:** February 22, 2016, 05:06:36 PM »

Christ, is that going to be a Rabe rudder, or just an adjustable one?

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #194 on:** February 22, 2016, 06:49:11 PM »

Quote from: Motorman on February 22, 2016, 06:28:59 PM

To increase the safety margin?

MM

Give me a break!

I've never had even a hint of structural failure of any of my stunters.

You build how you want and I''ll build my way.

Increase safety margin! Ha!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #195 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:21:28 PM »

Quote from: Curare on February 22, 2016, 05:06:36 PM

Christ, is that going to be a Rabe rudder, or just an adjustable one?

Both, maybe. At first adjustable, then I'll try a Rabe style, then decide which works best for me.

Shawn Lenci · « **Reply #196 on:** February 22, 2016, 07:28:48 PM »

With the glass cloth bonding the center sheeting to the fuse sides internally, that airplane is not coming apart under "normal" pull test and flying conditions. Probably not even in a crash. Very nice work on the entire model. Crist, thanks for taking the time to photograph each step and sharing. Lots to learn here.

Shawn

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #197 on:** February 22, 2016, 08:20:59 PM »

Quote from: Shawn Lenci on February 22, 2016, 07:28:48 PM

With the glass cloth bonding the center sheeting to the fuse sides internally, that airplane is not coming apart under "normal" pull test and flying conditions. Probably not even in a crash. Very nice work on the entire model. Crist, thanks for taking the time to photograph each step and sharing. Lots to learn here.

Shawn

Thanks Shawn for the kind words.

P.S. Here's a picture of my Legacy 40 after going straight in. You're right on the part not even coming apart in a crash!

Crist Rigotti · « **Reply #198 on:** February 23, 2016, 03:39:58 PM »

I finished shooting the white today. What I usually do is spray on at least 2 coats over the entire airframe. Then additional coats where only the white will show like on the fuselage sides.

I'll give it a thourough sanding with 600 grit wet and then shoot on a clear coat to seal the white. That should happen tomorrow.

19 grams were added for the white. 63 grams so far.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #199 on:** February 24, 2016, 10:03:58 AM »

Was the plane too damage to graft a new nose on? I know when my P-47 went in on maiden flight, I too many pieces to pick up and internal pieces was unbelievable.