ve in the past built a custom tank with the pickup in the location I want it, so in other words an assymetrical tank. Move the pickup upand the wedge up on the tankas well.

Think ive seen one where theyre fixed to a 1/16 wire thats soldered into the tank floor . Measure the protrusion with them at tank centre . Soften with soldering iron and push in 2 mm for 2 mm pipe shift , ad infiniteum .

picture showing vague resemblance to the general idea , insides shown uncovered .
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What?! I don't know about other people, but I can't grasp your statement or the drawing.......

AFAIC, the best way is to take the back off, (Set it on the range until the solder melts) and proceed from there.

Good luck, Jerry

Taking the back off is a good method
 BUT
I totally got what Matt suggested and think it a very crafty method

Yes, I also understood, once I looked at the diaphragm (sic). I usually have little or no comprehension of Mr. Spencer's posts, so I'm somewhat flummoxed over this happenstance.    Steve

push in 2mm for 2mm pipe shift....what? measure protrusion....what? Sorry but that's the most confusing thing I've ever read. Should I open the tank and bend the uniflow tube and solder it with piece of wire to the roof of the tank. Remember, I'm RAISING the "tank height".

Say for only the Uniflow Pipe in a Wedge Tank . Should get easy enough travel iin there . nearenough 3/16 in Ea Way.

Of Course the feed would be soldered In the Wedge there . The Uni Pipe WOULD NOT be soldered to the FEED Pipe back there at all , just to a 1/4 in dog leg on the adjusting wire .
The Paranoid or owners of Fox 35s  Would BIND & SOLDER the wire to the Uni Pipe . or make it 1/2 + lap on the wire adjustor rod . 

push in 2mm for 2mm pipe shift....what? measure protrusion....what? Sorry but that's the most confusing thing I've ever read. Should I open the tank and bend the uniflow tube and solder it with piece of wire to the roof of the tank. Remember, I'm RAISING the "tank height".

   Take the rear cover off the tank. Reach in and desolder the end of the uniflow vent tube from the side of the tank or whatever it is soldered to. Move it up (towards the bearers) about one tube width or 1/8" and solder it in place. It will probably end up right above the fuel pickup tube, so you can solder it to that.  Then reheat the solder where the uniflow vent tube comes out of the tank to relieve the stress from moving the tube.

      Brett

Thanks Brett

  You are welcome. I *think* I get what Matt Spencer is attempting to do, and it's actually a kind of neat idea, but given that you only have to determine the correct position once ,and have it stay that way forever, soldering and desoldering is acceptable. Once you know where it needs to be, then you can make all the subsequent tanks with the same offset.

   BTW, if it is very far off, you can also make the tank with the wedge and pickup off-center. But if it's just a little bit, like 1/8", then it's OK to leave the rest of it centered.

     Brett

I think I just got a grip on what Matt is talking about and it is interesting. I think he means you have an "adjustment wire" sticking out of the tank and you "loosen" the solder to raise or lower the tubes inside and resolder once in position, using a scale to mark where you are??? Is that it?

Was / Is more . . . thoughts ( derived from ) a set up on say a side mounted engine                   , with a built in tank .

Trying a variety of engines in the second Phantom , where the tanks not accessable . The Intake on the 21 series Super Tigres with the offset in the case are not on the centerline , like the OS 35 it was built for .

It was the 35C Flat Top , with intake on centerline that split the tank and shook the joints loose with its vibration , and was thirstyest . So it got a new nose and the FSR 25.

So . . . if you DID have a permanently installed tank with a sidewinder engine , and were worried about even speed upright/ inverted , having some set up so you could haul
the pipes around might ease your worried mind ! .

From Memory I think , the 21 40 was worst uneven & 21 35 ran dead even . 10 min on the 25 , 7 min on the 21 35 , 5 min on the C 35 Flat Top , on the same fuel .

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Say a 10 mm hole with a 1/2 Sq Patch over it , back at the rear ; If you left the last inch of the pipes unsoldered , would let you get in easy to tweak them , on an accessable tank . A spur of the moment thought .

Bit like the guys soldering a tin lid with the threaded cap receptical on for clunk access in a tin tank . Also let you clean the thing out and VISUALLY check it .

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We could have a thread for photos of the insides of rusted / gunked up TANKS . Mines Worse than Yours . With a Quaterly Winner .