Whats your opinion, do they work for Stunt ?
Because if they do ....

Whats your opinion, do they work for Stunt ?
Because if they do ....

  Worked every time I tried them, Fox 35 to 25LA. The only problem I have seen is that for the ones molded into the backplate, on a profile, they get broken off in an inverted crash, which breaks the backplate as well. The type on a bracket is fine, far as I can tell.

      Brett

So this is why I asked about this.  I'm thinking a bracket mounted NVA can be adjusted vertically eliminating the need to make the tank adjustable.  Moving the NVA with respect to tank position should have same effect as moving tank relative to a engine mounted NVA.   Not a big deal for profiles, but on full fuse birds its a big plus.  Not having to move tank for adjusting means you can use the full space for tank volume and installing a fixed tank should be easier in general.

Does not  work that way, you need  to move  either end,  (pick up, uni, or inlet into venturi )  but  not the middle.

And  NO  it is not the  same, the remote NVA  works fine on a non cycle motor, running a  wet 2 cycle, or  sometimes  a  all 4 cycle,  but.. the remote  NVA  does not  work as well as standard  when running an engine cycling, it  has a slight delay, making the motor  slightly  dumb.. and is not as quick to respond.  It/s  close  but not quite there,  Does it work  OK  for  your  use???  maybe so maybe no ,  The only way to tell  is to try the  setup on your  airplane  and see  if  you like it.


Randy

I've only tried two remote NV's, one from an OS .29X (old Max III speed engine), and a bone-stock OS .25LA. I didn't like either, for starting problems mostly. I think the .25LA one leaked a lot of air, so when I choked the engine and got the fuel up to the venturi, the fuel would run back away from the venturi by the time I put the igniter on.

The .29X deal was about 55 years ago, so I can't remember much except that it went away very quickly. For both, I recall that the NV response to adjustments was painfully slow and totally unacceptable. The .25LA unit suggested to me that the Magnum and ASP remote unit is one heck of a lot better made, and that is difficult for me to admit.

As Randy said, that's not the way to avoid adjusting for tank height. Moving the uniflow tube inside the tank is the only option, other than changing relative height between tank and engine. Not many will move the engine instead of the tank!    Steve

   My experience with rear mounted needle valves when Sean was younger is that you need to choke the engine more when starting, and if you don't have the tank exactly right, it takes a loooong time for the engine to quit. That is tank height and back end canted out a bit, to get a clean cutoff. This was mainly on OS.40FPs.
   Type at you later,
    Dan McEntee

The suction head at the  engine's intake is independent of needle valve location. What matters is where the fuel opening into the venturi is. Typically, this is the same place the needle valve is, but it doesn't have to be.