A couple more things I thought of after my last post. Since you had to tinker with the spray bar assembly already and have an idea of what is going on there, you may want to take it out and put the needle valve on the other (inboard) side. This will let the fuel line make a nice straight run from the tank to the spray bar fitting. When you put the spray bar in, try to have the hole at a slight angle towards the back of the venturi. Kind of where it is just out of site if you were looking down the venturi. This is the area where it will get the best fuel draw. Make sure that you get the nut secure. I find that a couple of nut drivers, one for each side, makes this easier. Jim Lee makes some neat little socket wrenches for this chore also.
With the tank that you have, you will notice that the engine will pick up speed as the tank runs down,more noticeably at the last 1/4 tank probably. This is because it is a normally vented tank, and as the tank level goes down, there will be a bit of a vacuum left behind in the tank that will decrease fuel flow, thus leaning out the engine. If you had a muffler, that would minimize the affect some what. The cure for that is a uniflow tank, which can be made from a plastic tank, or made from tin stock, and it doesn't have be a clunk style tank. Search uniflow tank here on the list and you will find volumes on the subject.
Again, have fun with the "big" engine. You will find that they act a lot like the Cox, and can be easier to get good steady runs from them. I imagine a 7-4 to 8-4 prop will be what you want for the engine, and given that Enyas can take a while to break in, I would run at least a quart of fuel through on the bench with the 7-4 prop.
Type at you later,
Dan McEntee