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Author Topic: What do you guys cover your Aircraft with?  (Read 863 times)
beercamel
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« on: April 16, 2017, 12:12:24 AM »

What does everybody use to cover classic combat aircraft with?

I am rebuilding an old VooDoo and I am considering silk , just because I like the look..  I have been out of the hobby for 30 years and only have experience with silk, silkspan, and monokote.. so please be specific!

Thanks

BC
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« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2017, 08:30:39 AM »

If you want a plastic type finish try SLC over polyspan.  Works really well and strong.  I've done several that way and I like it for sport type finishes.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/paint-and-finishing/slc-over-polyspan/

Check some of the later posts to see my 2 old time combat planes that I did using the method.  An original design from the 60's and a Berkeley Lancer.
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john e. holliday
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« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2017, 12:22:24 PM »

Here is my combat wing using the poly-span with SLC over it.


* DSCN1271.JPG (125.24 KB, 640x480 - viewed 44 times.)

* DSCN1265.JPG (123.55 KB, 640x480 - viewed 30 times.)
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« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2017, 01:20:54 PM »

Looks good John, may I ask way you use two coverings? I just use SLC and scuff it with scotch brite to give it a more vintage look.
Thanks
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Ken Burdick
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« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2017, 04:22:38 PM »

for combat Graffiti, we grade the finish on authentic materials for extra finish points, so a lot of silk and nylon are used
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Chad Hill
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« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2017, 08:51:13 PM »

Nice looking Guillotine, John. Full flaps! Did you use line connectors to attach the stab, just like in the old days? Why apparently a tank instead of a bladder? Just kidding, whatever suits your fancy. I loved the way they flew. Hoff
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Paul Seeley
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« Reply #6 on: April 17, 2017, 12:55:12 AM »

Just covering a couple of vintage designs (A Squig and a Pirhanna since you ask) I was going to use Nylon, but decided to try some Sig Koverall.

Happy to say it went on very nicely and easier than nylon Grin

I used clear UHU as an adhesive; two coats thinned with cellulose thinners brushed on and allowed to dry then stuck the Koverall on with an iron just like film. A quick blow over with a hot air gun tightened everything up before giving a few coats of dope (2 x 50/50 and 1 x 60/40 so far, will give a light sand down and add a couple more 70/30 later today to give a nice shine)

I've a few others to do and was going to use silk on mylar for a couple to compare weight wise, but coverall looks like nylon and is about as tough. Only drawback is it's only available in white, although some folks dye theirs)

Cheers
Paul
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Bob Mears
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« Reply #7 on: April 17, 2017, 08:07:35 AM »

I use cheap laminating film I get off ebay. 1.3 mil works great. I spray the back side with white primer to look like tissue. You can change colors and still look like colored tissue. Just a light mist, dont coat it. Then I spray frame work lightly with 3m77 for a good stick. If I want to paint I scrub with scotch brite and shoot. Looks like silkspan with great gloss. More durable and much better shelf life. I do miss the smell of dope though.


* Small Nemisis.jpg (55.09 KB, 500x373 - viewed 31 times.)

* small Raunchy.jpg (101.59 KB, 500x373 - viewed 27 times.)

* Small Barn Door.jpg (83.89 KB, 500x373 - viewed 24 times.)
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john e. holliday
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« Reply #8 on: April 17, 2017, 10:45:13 AM »

Looks good John, may I ask way you use two coverings? I just use SLC and scuff it with scotch brite to give it a more vintage look.
Thanks

Makes for a more durable covering.  To me in person it looks like a ton of clear dope on silk span, but weighs a lot less also less time.   Also my pups don't like the smell of dope any more.  Top to bottom,  Sandy, Prissie and Teddy.


* DSCN0884.JPG (135.01 KB, 640x480 - viewed 16 times.)

* DSCN0887.JPG (136.11 KB, 640x480 - viewed 19 times.)

* DSCN0882.JPG (136.53 KB, 640x480 - viewed 18 times.)
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« Reply #9 on: April 18, 2017, 11:49:06 AM »

Bobby.
I'm in the midst of building a Raunchy (per the article) . The covering is dress lining (med weight) and dope. It looks perfectly like the silkspan we can no longer get. The most difficult part is getting the graphics. I may do it freehand.


Ken
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Bob Mears
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« Reply #10 on: April 19, 2017, 06:53:09 AM »

Arlene painted that one freehand. She just looked at the old mag pic and whipped it out. No way would I take a paint brush to my airplane....b ut I guess it wasn't her airplane, so no worries!
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« Reply #11 on: April 19, 2017, 09:10:29 AM »

thinking the same here.......we be airplane builders, not artists. If it isn't a stencil or mask then don't do it....good motto.
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beercamel
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« Reply #12 on: April 20, 2017, 11:13:55 PM »

If you want a plastic type finish try SLC over polyspan.  Works really well and strong.  I've done several that way and I like it for sport type finishes.

http://stunthanger.com/smf/paint-and-finishing/slc-over-polyspan/

Check some of the later posts to see my 2 old time combat planes that I did using the method.  An original design from the 60's and a Berkeley Lancer.

Thanks for the reply!.. What is 'SLC'?

Sorry for the ignorance..  I was big time into C/L until about 1974, when I began college and went into the service..  I diddled a bit with what I still had..  but now as I approach the end of my career I have time to get back into model aviation..  A lot of things have changed!!

BC
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« Reply #13 on: April 20, 2017, 11:14:31 PM »

Here is my combat wing using the poly-span with SLC over it.

Looks GREAT.. Just what I want!..
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« Reply #14 on: April 20, 2017, 11:19:06 PM »

I use cheap laminating film I get off ebay. 1.3 mil works great. I spray the back side with white primer to look like tissue. You can change colors and still look like colored tissue. Just a light mist, dont coat it. Then I spray frame work lightly with 3m77 for a good stick. If I want to paint I scrub with scotch brite and shoot. Looks like silkspan with great gloss. More durable and much better shelf life. I do miss the smell of dope though.

Do you have a link to that film?  How do you shrink it?
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Paul Smith
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« Reply #15 on: April 21, 2017, 07:23:23 AM »

The lightweight laminating film I used to get came from GBC.  Nap-Lam.  Part # 300002.
.0015" x 12" x 500'.  Crystal clear with a dry stick-um on the back.  You iron it on and it shrinks.  The benefit is that the low temperature lets on use it over bare foam.

A roll should do 70 to 80 planes.

« Last Edit: April 25, 2017, 07:32:55 PM by Paul Smith » Logged

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« Reply #16 on: April 21, 2017, 07:27:29 AM »

Here's a link to some on ebay. It's 1.5 mil. It will work great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/School-Smart-Laminating-Film-1-5-Mil-Roll-12-x-500-foot-1-inch-Core-1277259-/291994564405?hash=item43fc3b7735:g:U7IAAOSwt5hYcbY-

Thas a 12" roll. Make sure that will cover your wing. They have wider rolls too. just follow the links
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john e. holliday
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« Reply #17 on: April 21, 2017, 11:33:06 AM »

Beercamel,  SLC - Super Light Covering from Phil Carter at the Corehouse.   It is basically a mylar film with heat sensitive glue.  It is also available on the Ebay.  I know the roll I got from Phil did at least a dozen planes.
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« Reply #18 on: April 25, 2017, 09:07:42 PM »

Here's a link to some on ebay. It's 1.5 mil. It will work great.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/School-Smart-Laminating-Film-1-5-Mil-Roll-12-x-500-foot-1-inch-Core-1277259-/291994564405?hash=item43fc3b7735:g:U7IAAOSwt5hYcbY-

Thas a 12" roll. Make sure that will cover your wing. They have wider rolls too. just follow the links

Is that strong enough to cover a repaired Russian F2d airplane?
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john e. holliday
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« Reply #19 on: April 26, 2017, 12:58:19 PM »

Yes. Hoff
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I was always taught to respect my elders, but it keeps getting harder to find one.
Today I broke my personal record for most consecutive days lived.
John E. "DOC" Holliday
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Shawnee, KANSAS  66203
AMA 23530

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