Hi Fellas! So I finally got around to building a kit. Ive never built a Brodak kit. Ive built plenty of Sterling, Sig, Top Flite, Control Line Classics, Carl Goldberg and Dumas kits but never a Brodak kit.

Anyway Ive been pondering what kind of controls to put in. I like the ball link controls I put in the Nobler from Tom Morris (I hope he gets well soon). I was thinking of going that route. What benefits do you get from those kind of controls as opposed to just the music wire sloppy control?? I Suppose a 4in bellcrank, although I put a 4 in the Nobler an felt it took a lot of wrist movement doing the stunts. On the fence with that too.

What does Tom use for his controls, is that Carbon rod? What does he use to wrap the ends with that he epoxies?

I'm giving a pool table slate with a sheet of drywall on top a try.

Thanks for your thoughts guy!

Chris

In the photos above, the top tube is mine. The lower tube is from Tom Morris. The three ends are Titanium, so I'm told.  As you can see. one end has grooves for the epoxy.  The bottom one is designed to go in the middle of a tube or tubes and can be turned either way for fine adjustment. Same for the middle one, except it fits in one end only.  The top one is a typical end.
The short piece of aluminum tubing and the Kevlar thread serve to keep the tube from shredding.  

Very interesting! I was just going to epoxy a piece of all thread on the ends. Where do you get those ends at, specifically the top one??

I found some carbon tube at a hobby shop today, I wasn't sure what size to buy so I found one that 4-40 fits inside easily. But I also got one a little smaller that it didn't fit right in. Got them home an saw Tom uses the smaller one I got.

Chris,

For push rod materials go to Central Hobbies.

https://www.centralhobbies.com/cat3.php?cat=27&subcat=124

Click on whichever button you're interested in; carbon fibre rods, carbon fibre pushrod sets or titanium ends.  Tom Morris gets his threaded ends from Central Hobbies.

Thanks for the heads up on that!

Post needs to go thru hardwood or ply plates. 

Post needs to go thru hardwood or ply plates. 

Thanks, I figured it probably did.

Hi Chris. It's really good to see you back at the building table.
Here's how I secured it on my Twister. I carved the end of a square poplar dowel to fit a brass tube that sleeves the top of the screw. The brace is epoxied to the top spar and rib. Also in the photo, is a balsa brace against the rib at the bottom plate, also epoxied to the bottom spar. So those spars take all the forces in that direction from the bellcrank. I think it's pretty tough. I would not bore a hole through a spar.

Arrows point to the two braces and the brass tube sleeving the pivot screw.

Hi Rusty! I'm slow going but at least I started building something. Are you building anything right now?

But now that the Winter Solstice is behind us, I am counting the weeks till Spring.

Boy when you put it that way I better get moving on this airplane. I don't even know what to cover it in. All I've ever used was monokote. I bought some covering from Tom Morris but I've never used that stuff.

Get moving on that wing Rusty!

As far as warps I some times make the piece work depending on the use.  The leading edge should be no problem.  If you got the Poly-Span covering from Tom Morris, check out the finishing procedure by Larry Renger .  I have just covered a wing using the procedure and it sure goes fast.  Two days of piddling in the shop and I have a covered wing that has a shine like I could never get with clear dope.  See the post My Secret Weapon.  It's in the paint and finish section.

Had a bit of a setback today. Some fur ball danced on the wing

Hope you cut a notch for that set screw.   I lost my Sheeks Spitfire because the set screw came loose.   I put a ply plate top and bottom over the rod so it can't move vertically now.  I also don't like fuel tubing for spacers.  I use flat washers or make play spacers.

Hope you cut a notch for that set screw.   I lost my Sheeks Spitfire because the set screw came loose.   I put a ply plate top and bottom over the rod so it can't move vertically now.  I also don't like fuel tubing for spacers.  I use flat washers or make play spacers.

Ok Doc I got the flats and used aluminum tubing instead of the fuel line.

Chris
Or you could have used a couple wheel collars as well.

Carl

Does anybody like the fuel tubing  . What are you building this winter Carl?

Does anybody like the fuel tubing  . What are you building this winter Carl?

No, not fuel line for that purpose. I think the aluminum will work fine. As I posted in the other thread, I used brass tube for a similar setup.
Rusty

I didn't know Tom liked it, and I wouldn't dis anything he endorses.

I started to graft the two halves back together under the tutelage of Bob Zambelli, when a new box showed up at my front door with a Walter Umland label on it. It was a brand new laser cut wing kit! What a guy! Walter is alright. And that was only days after his return from the hospital.

So it's on the glass now. But I have developed such a fiery case of tendonitis in my left arm, it's only partially started while I drag around the house moaning. What a pathetic mess I am.

Merry Christmas, Buddy.
Rusty

I didn't know Tom liked it, and I wouldn't dis anything he endorses.

I started to graft the two halves back together under the tutelage of Bob Zambelli, when a new box showed up at my front door with a Walter Umland label on it. It was a brand new laser cut wing kit! What a guy! Walter is alright. And that was only days after his return from the hospital.

So it's on the glass now. But I have developed such a fiery case of tendonitis in my left arm, it's only partially started while I drag around the house moaning. What a pathetic mess I am.

Merry Christmas, Buddy.
Rusty

That's pretty awesome Rusty! I hope you can get it together an your tendinitis calms down.  Nothing worse than feeling to bad to do things.
Merry Christmas to you guys too!
Chris

I've never had a problem with the fuel tube, and it's been on planes of mine for almost 10 years. I would imagine a 5oz tank would work just fine, I like the ATF (All Tubes Forward) style of metal tank.

I don't like the fuel tubing but I like it better than the aluminum tubing. Get some extra wheel collars and glue some flat washers to them if you have to and leave the set screws out except for the collars next to the bellcrank. I have a piece of 1/2" phenolic rod that I cut spacers out of. After the 1/8" music wire is in place hit the ends with a drop of CA glue.

That rib that's right there where the lead outs meet the bellcrank needs more clearance or you're brass tubing will catch.

I think you could do the pattern with a 4.5oz wide wedge uniflow tank.

http://brodak.com/wide-wedge-uniflow-fuel-tank-4.html

Check the length and see if you have room for mounting tabs back and front or if you have to go top and bottom. Set the tank 1/8" above the thrust line to start.

http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets.html

MM

I don't like the fuel tubing but I like it better than the aluminum tubing. Get some extra wheel collars and glue some flat washers to them if you have to and leave the set screws out except for the collars next to the bellcrank. I have a piece of 1/2" phenolic rod that I cut spacers out of. After the 1/8" music wire is in place hit the ends with a drop of CA glue.

That rib that's right there where the lead outs meet the bellcrank needs more clearance or you're brass tubing will catch.

I think you could do the pattern with a 4.5oz wide wedge uniflow tank.

http://brodak.com/wide-wedge-uniflow-fuel-tank-4.html

Check the length and see if you have room for mounting tabs back and front or if you have to go top and bottom. Set the tank 1/8" above the thrust line to start.

http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets.html

MM

Why don't you like the aluminum tubing idea? Why would you have move the adjustable leadouts further out than the last full wing rib?

Just make sure it's Silicone Adhesive !! I sand the back of the tank to give it some tooth to hold onto, also the plywood . Like I said it has worked for me, Your mileage may vary !!

Chris

All my planes with adjustable lead outs use the dual line adjusters.
The new plane will have seperate line adjusters. (that is what I had in my parts box)

The tank mount that Leester had is a good one. (make sure to fuel proof the wood) Or you can solder the end ones on from Bordak. http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets/adjustable-tank-brackets-end.html

A 4 1/2 oz tank will work fine. The choice is up to you as for the type of tubing location. I like these on profiles: http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets/adjustable-tank-brackets-end.html

Make sure to lengthen the opening on the outer wing rib for the adjustable lead outs.

Chris

All my planes with adjustable lead outs use the dual line adjusters.
The new plane will have seperate line adjusters. (that is what I had in my parts box)

The tank mount that Leester had is a good one. (make sure to fuel proof the wood) Or you can solder the end ones on from Bordak. http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets/adjustable-tank-brackets-end.html

A 4 1/2 oz tank will work fine. The choice is up to you as for the type of tubing location. I like these on profiles: http://brodak.com/fuel/fuel-tank-brackets/adjustable-tank-brackets-end.html

Make sure to lengthen the opening on the outer wing rib for the adjustable lead outs.

The dual line looks easier to screw with so I'll try that one.

Do you guys solidly mount the tank once you solder the ends on? Or do you put something to cut down the vibration?

I think the aluminum tubing is thin and could cut into the plywood.

Bolt your tank hard to the plane just make sure you're not stressing the solder joints of the brass brackets. If you want to glue your tank with caulk to plywood with thin wood around the slots good luck with that, not on my plane.

You want the lead out guide to be as close to the tip as possible so the cables don't work the slot.

MM  

I think the aluminum tubing is thin and could cut into the plywood. I mean the center section, rib #2 next to the bellcrank needs more clearance on the brass loops. Bolt your tank hard to the plane just make sure you're not stressing the solder joints of the brass brackets. If you want to glue your tank with caulk to plywood with thin wood around the slots good luck with that, not on my plane.

MM 

I'm my Thoughts on a Tanager thread you had mentioned moving the adjustable leadouts out further than the plans mentioned, I was just wondering why.

For the landing gear is a two pice that comes in the kit ok or would I be better off bending a one piece landing gear?

The two piece landing gear is fine.