I am still working on my stunt trainer...  (with foam wing)   I ordered some CF pushrods... I also ordered some rh and LH thread ends...  I didn't stop to think that I would need to get LH thread ball link or clevis or something for that end.. Anybody using pushrods with RH and LH ends?  where do you get the LH hardware?  I email Tom Morris to ask.. haven't heard from him yet...

seems like a great idea to just turn the pushrod to adjust.  then tighten lock nut...  I made an adjustable leadout rig like I saw on Tim Wescott's thread... His posts have some really great ideas.

Thanks

steve

Erick Rule of RSM Distribution has just added a line of left and right threaded pushrod ends to his line of products.

http://www.rsmdistribution.com/index-2.htm

Also, you can use the tie rods from the RC car counter.  You only need to cut the thing to get the left and right threaded pieces to put into your pushrods.  As suggested by Mark, the ball link ends make their own threads.  Also, many in the CLPA community would suggest to stay away from clevises anyway.

Keith

Ball Links are pretty much bullet proof, a clevis will eventually fail. There is more force on control surfaces of a control line stunt plane than an RC plane, so I've heard.

Don

Hey Kieth, you got a picture of this item, or Manufacture & p/n ?

Almost all of the manufacturers for RC cars provide tie rods in different lengths.  You can get them made from steel or titanium.  Associated lists several.  One of them is at

https://www.teamassociated.com/parts/details/25381-ASC25381-ft_titanium_steering_turnbuckle_4_5_16_in/

Traxxas is another at

https://traxxas.com/products/parts/6057

I like these because they are larger diameter with a larger and finer thread than the normal 4-40 threads used on the couplers normally used for our toy airplanes.  And the ball link ends from those RC car counters are larger and heavier duty to match those tie rods.  I have used some variation of these at the end of carbon pushrods on my stunt ships without any failure or problem for over 20 years.  On those RC cars and trucks, these things are stressed much more than what will ever be experienced on our CLPA models and I am wary of 4-40 couplers.  I had a brass 4-40 coupler fail once.

I do take care to make sure these tie rod ends are securely fastened to the pushrod ends.  JB Weld is a must.  I sometimes put a 1/16" pin though the pushrod and tie rod, then wrap it with carbon tow or an Aluminum band secured with JB Weld.  (It is a real trick to drill a 1/16" hole through the diameter of those titanium rods - usually destroy one bit for each hole.)

Keith

I like these because they are larger diameter with a larger and finer thread than the normal 4-40 threads used on the couplers normally used for our toy airplanes.  And the ball link ends from those RC car counters are larger and heavier duty to match those tie rods.  Keith

So the larger ball links that match these tierods, what hole size does the ball have, for the mounting to bellcrank and control horn ?  Hoping its still a # 4 size hole ??

Steve, it's best to wrap the pushrod ends with something to prevent splitting. I don't know about other products but I use carbon tubes from Tom Morris.

My first attempt at binding was not pretty and I was pleased that it was inside a box fuselage. Subsequently, I found a K&S thinwall aluminium tube that is a neat slide fit on the tube OD. Slide the aluminium tube—about 3/4" long—onto the carbon tube, smear the end of the carbon tube with epoxy and slide the aluminium tube into place at the end. Wipe off excess epoxy with iso propyl alcohol.

That's right, Allan, the through-hole in the ball is for a #4 screw. At least all the ones I have used are.

Same  here.  Its like double nuts on a screw.