I do the same as Mike, even when doing CF or glass. The wrap is fail proof as far as releasing. Sure you can get some wrinkles but that's why they make sandpaper.
"Good" Will Hinton,
I used to make fiberglass parts for art work, but parts are parts.
I used the large black plastic bags and cut them in long endless strips 2" or so wide, just keep cutting round and around the bag, could get 20 feet or more. Eyeballed the width actually.
This would get wrapped around the mold continually from one end to the other. I once did one large fiberglass Coca Cola disk about 24" in diam. For that I applied the black bag over the entire area then just gathered the excess behind the mold tight. Second bag wrap over the glass was to pull it tight. Could also squeegee on the bag depending on the task.
Could easily use the 2" wrap thing, because as you wrap from one end to the other, you can set the skin. Un-rap for change in the sheeting then start again if necessary.
I haven't done this in years, but it could be one method that could work well for sheeting.
I have sheeted models, like one of the two Grumman F3F-1's I started years ago for R/C, but I prefer "planking."
As I just recently did on my Gee Bee R-3. The GBR3 model was planked carefully for fit, but the Mig-3 planking was rushed and I paid no attention to correct fit or detail on it.