I've been looking for a glass desk top or something to put on my work bench...  Right now I have a small one.. and I am liking it...  would like a bigger one...   Haven't had much luck yet...  way to much $$ to order from binswanger or somebody.  Also wanting to get something for my grandson

What about mirror?   Lowes has a 36" x 60"  1/4" thick unframed mirror for < $50  Has anybody used a mirror?  I wonder if they will cut down to 30 x 50?  or whatever??

I've been watching Sparky's hangouts and the glass workbench looks like a GREAT idea!!

Steve,

IMHO, I would go score a piece of granite. These guys have left over stock that they would let go for a small cost, or maybe none.

The granite is flat and true.

Glass, even thick glass can bow depending what it's laying on.

Plus, granite looks nice.

Charles

Here in Dallas area we have an outlet called Seconds and Surplus. They have damaged (broken) pieces of granite that are really cheap. I got a piece 7' x 3' for $129  It will bow in the middle if you don't put it on something relatively flat but nothing like glass. The only problem with mine I've noticed is it is mottled in color and if you drop like pins or small screws, washers etc...they are kinda hard to see. Wish it was a solid color. Other than that it is flat and true in both axsis (pl)?

I currently have 3 different building table surfaces, glass, granite, and pool table slate.  Glass is now my last choice, as mentioned earlier you need to shim it flat, it will follow whatever your support surface is.  If you can find a granite countertop supplier check them out, when I told the local granite shop owner what I was doing he gave me 2 cutoffs big enough to build wings on.  One edge is rough but who cares.  If you have a billiard supply (pool table) store nearby go there and get in touch with whoever does their setup and repairs.  The slate tops usually come in 2 or 3 pieces, if you are persistent you may find a cracked but still whole piece sometimes for the price of hauling it off.  Pool table slate is my first choice for a building surface.

I use glass 1/2 inch thick. but my table is 3/4 inch wood and is well braced underneath. Took years to finally get the table that I always wanted and I'm perfectly satisfied with mine. It is dead level everywhere. Not bad for an 8 by 5 foot table

Dennis

Floyd,
That's one take on it and I'm sure it's not unique to you.  My obsession with a true building surface goes back a long time but became really serious when I began cutting and sheeting foam wings for others.  You can't charge someone $200 for a sheeted wing with a visible imperfection/bow.  Now I build and align everything including built up wings and fuses on my slate tables.  One thing I wonder is what you base your careful measurements on if you don't have an accurate surface to work from?  In the end it's all a hobby, if pretty flat is good enough for you that's all that matters.  George

I don't understand the mania for a workbench flat within 0.001".  Whatever you build will certainly "settle" after building.  Warps, and small "movements" always happen with wood.  So your expensive table top is for nothing!

The solution is to monitor your work as it is assembled and covered.  Careful measurement, and "eyeball" scrutiny will correct deviations, or warps.  Many completed models will require adjustment after first flight to get it into trim.

My workbench is covered in thick MDF composite.  It's pretty flat.  Good enough!

Floyd

I'm mostly in agreement with you, Floyd. Our building surfaces need to be flat and true, but not to the umpeenth thousandth of an inch. I build on 1/4" glass on a 3'x7' table. Laying a straight edge across the glass reveals a slight drop in the middle of the whole thing, but hardly enough to slip cereal box cardboard into. Certainly not enough to fret about. I can't build that straight anyway.

You're not heating the pins up enough Keith

The glass I use is a mirror 1/4 inch thick. I shimmed it flat and always check it before a new wing. If it's a few thousand out no big deal as stated in previous posts the wing will move after dope and covering. The best thing is your eyes to check for warps as you go.

Hi. followed this thread with interest. If you want to build on glass and don't want to spring a bunch of money, try your local soda bottler. They usually have a bunch of soda coolers around that are waiting to be trashed. The doors on most of the coolers are a perfect for a building surface. Most have a frame around the glass that's about 1/8 inch proud of the glass, Perfect for butting the trailing edge of a wing against. This is  what I use and I really like it