Author Topic: Fancherized Twister Build (Read 56472 times)

Tim Wescott · « **on:** July 31, 2012, 08:40:12 PM »

So, does the world need another build thread? Particularly one that's for a plain old Fancherized Twister, from a kit even?

I dunno. But I'll start this one, and if folks seem interested I'll keep it up.

Here's the bellcrank and mount. Bellcrank's made out of 1/8" phenolic, whacked out of the sheet with a coping saw then sanded around the edges to make it purdy. It's four inch, with the control holes spaced the same as on a Sig 3" -- I'm not sure yet which hole I'll use for the pushrod; I'm leaning toward the outer one, with a good long arm on the flap.

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #1 on:** July 31, 2012, 10:00:30 PM »

Tim ... keep up the thread. I have a selfish reason cause I have a Twister kit that I am fixing the Fancherize also.....thanks for doing this..

Mike

Glenn (Gravitywell) Reach · « **Reply #2 on:** July 31, 2012, 10:21:18 PM »

Ditto....keep posting. I don't care how many times I see a Fancher Twister made....they are just flat out cool!

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #3 on:** August 01, 2012, 01:12:37 AM »

Tim, inboard hole,, probably should be about .75 inches from the pivot. I strongly encourage you to use "standard" dimensions on all the control stuff, trust me I have overthought this many times,, and hated that I did later. go ahead and keep the thread up,, its not that you are showing off, but it sure will give us backseat drivers a chance to kibitz,, and hopefully keep you headed the right way!!! LOL

besides that I enjoy pickign on you,, even though onlookers may think I am being

"mean" to you,,, you know we are having fun,, right?

Perry Rose · « **Reply #4 on:** August 01, 2012, 04:46:58 AM »

Cap strips on the ribs and a molded leading edge. 1/4" flaps and a stretched built up stab/elev, 22 inch span by 3/8" thick. Wing mounted landing gear with spats. Duplicolor acrylic enamel paint and clear. Simple one piece rounded wing tips with plastic slider. Buried slant wedge fuel tank. And hurry up.

Derek Barry · « **Reply #5 on:** August 01, 2012, 05:28:17 AM »

Tim, I think you should listen to Mark about the controls. I drill mine and 5/8 to 3/4.

Derek

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #6 on:** August 01, 2012, 07:46:48 AM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 01, 2012, 01:12:37 AM

I strongly encourage you to use "standard" dimensions on all the control stuff

Quote from: Derek Barry on August 01, 2012, 05:28:17 AM

Tim, I think you should listen to Mark about the controls. I drill mine and 5/8 to 3/4.

I almost started a thread to ask about this, actually. All my concrete references are kits and plans from decades ago, and lots of web pages of "this is how I build a control system", so I'm not sure what really counts as "standard" today. The Twister kit has you using a Sig 3" bellcrank and nylon elevator horns on the flap and elevator, which seems barely adequate to me -- that's what motivated the phenolic bellcrank.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #7 on:** August 01, 2012, 07:48:45 AM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 01, 2012, 01:12:37 AM

besides that I enjoy pickign on you,, even though onlookers may think I am being

"mean" to you,,, you know we are having fun,, right?

Yes, and in that spirit I want to assure you that I'm not making one single change from the Fancherized Twister plans.

(I mean -- the bellcrank and the tricycle landing gear already count as two -- right?)

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #8 on:** August 01, 2012, 10:04:57 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 01, 2012, 07:48:45 AM

Yes, and in that spirit I want to assure you that I'm not making one single change from the Fancherized Twister plans.

(I mean -- the bellcrank and the tricycle landing gear already count as two -- right?)

wait what! tricycle gear,, no really,, sigh
and the true spirit of the FAn twister is the moments, not the style,, excepting the shortened rudder with is to keep it from popping off.

that said do yourself a favor, do not sheet the leading edge, do not use cap strips, add the half ribs, and monokote the wing. Perhaps using spruce spars would be ok, I did. The real advantage for YOU ( and me when I flew this) is that the wing structure will absorb a lot of abuse when ,, uh,, if you bounce it on the bottom of manuevers. It will flex, pop the monokote/ultracote between bays on the wing, and most times with some 2 inch packing tape to patch the covering, you can be flying again. If you build the wing more rigid , sheeting and cap strips, it will shatter.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #9 on:** August 01, 2012, 10:33:42 AM »

With the exception of the suspended 4" bellcrank and the trike gear mount, the wing is getting built exactly per Dr. Fancher -- for exactly the reasons you cite.

The trike gear is because my normal practice field is about as smooth and even as the backs of a herd of buffalo. There's about 20 feet of grass where, if you grease a landing like you ought to on pavement, the plane doesn't nose over. Everywhere else you need to bend the gear forward and do a tail-down full stall "plop to finish" landing. Takeoffs are just as bad: try for smooth and you either dig the prop in or you bounce up then bump. I don't think that I can fix takeoffs with anything short of tilling up the field and rolling it flat (and, since it's a state park, I don't think I can get away with that). I am hoping that trike gear will allow me to practice my landings without having to drive 40 minutes each way to Delta Park (or Salem -- it's actually not that much farther).

And besides, everyone who uses trike gear raves about how good it works. Clearly, if it were for everyone then everyone would use it. But just as clearly, it's good for some, so I ought to try it.

dirty dan · « **Reply #10 on:** August 01, 2012, 11:28:12 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 01, 2012, 10:33:42 AM

And besides, everyone who uses trike gear raves about how good it works. Clearly, if it were for everyone then everyone would use it. But just as clearly, it's good for some, so I ought to try it.

Yes, and a goodly number of those ravers changed their minds and never went back to trike gear. Fact.

The only possible reason I can see for such gear is packaging. That's why Paul was using trike gear on several eelecktrick models.

At the very least build model so you can improve it by fitting conventional gear without tearing up the structure. If a rough field is a consideration build model to allow for fitment of both way-forward gear (as seen on a great many OTS models) and proper setting for smooth fields.

Dan

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #11 on:** August 01, 2012, 11:31:58 AM »

Quote from: dirty dan on August 01, 2012, 11:28:12 AM

At the very least build model so you can improve it by fitting conventional gear without tearing up the structure. If a rough field is a consideration build model to allow for fitment of both way-forward gear (as seen on a great many OTS models) and proper setting for smooth fields.

The landing gear block is very close to the CG, with the legs tilted back, and I'm going to put in a mounting block for a tail wheel. Remove legs, swap sides, turn toe-out to toe-in, plug in the tail wheel -- voila.

proparc · « **Reply #12 on:** August 01, 2012, 11:33:14 AM »

Can someone tell me why, a plane like the Fancherized Twister which, as far as I can ascertain, has become almost a modern day Ringmaster has never been kitted. I can only assume legal issues because, the plane is a modification, (albeit significant) of an existing design and rights may be involved.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #13 on:** August 01, 2012, 11:40:28 AM »

Quote from: proparc on August 01, 2012, 11:33:14 AM

Can someone tell me why, a plane like the Fancherized Twister which, as far as I can ascertain, has become almost a modern day Ringmaster has never been kitted. I can only assume legal issues because, the plane is a modification, (albeit significant) of an existing design and rights may be involved.

I think someone does offer a laser cut kit.

Legally, if Sig wanted to go after you for selling a kit like that called a "Twister" they could -- but in theory you could rename it ("Fancher trainer", if Ted signed up to you using his name) and sell it at will.

Morally -- I dunno.

If Sig ever decides to make laser cut kits and cast their eyes toward the Twister, they could do a lot wronger than making a Fancherized version -- who could resist a Sig "Twister-II", "Ted Fancher version"?

Bill Allen · « **Reply #14 on:** August 01, 2012, 11:55:35 AM »

Hi Tim: You obviously don't subscribe to CONTROL LINE WORLD ...because if you did you would have already read two installments (10 pages each!) of the three part F(ancherized)/A(llenized) TWISTER PROJECT. I'm happy to send you a copy of the two installments already published this year....gratis! Specialty plans are available through Leonard Neumann (of STUKA STUNT). BTW...a "kit" is available through Tom Morris ENT. and Walter Umland. I'll be happy to answer any quetion(s) you may have. Regards, Bill Allen (PAMPA member)

proparc · « **Reply #15 on:** August 01, 2012, 12:11:19 PM »

Quote from: Bill Allen on August 01, 2012, 11:55:35 AM

Hi Tim: You obviously don't subscribe to CONTROL LINE WORLD ...because if you did you would have already read two installments (10 pages each!) of the three part F(ancherized)/A(llenized) TWISTER PROJECT. I'm happy to send you a copy of the two installments already published this year....gratis! Specialty plans are available through Leonard Neumann (of STUKA STUNT). BTW...a "kit" is available through Tom Morris ENT. and Walter Umland. I'll be happy to answer any quetion(s) you may have. Regards, Bill Allen (PAMPA member)

I am the one who deserves the Homer Simpson award here.

Tim was just trying to help me out.

I could save face here by saying, I was not aware of the kit, (I was aware of the articles) because, I don’t involve myself in lowly profiles and that, I was deeply engaged in a high level project to alter the face of stunt across the whole known world. In addition, my collaboration with the scientists at CalTech, simply left me no time to properly investigate the ship.

Suffice to say all of the above is not true, and that I am simply just a stupid a!@ who should have done his homework first.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #16 on:** August 01, 2012, 12:14:45 PM »

Quote from: Bill Allen on August 01, 2012, 11:55:35 AM

Hi Tim: You obviously don't subscribe to CONTROL LINE WORLD ...because if you did you would have already read two installments (10 pages each!) of the three part F(ancherized)/A(llenized) TWISTER PROJECT

It's worse than that, Bill -- we've had this conversation already, and you were kind enough to send me some material on the thing already, and it completely slipped my mind!

(Although, I did sorta kinda remember that there was a laser cut kit out there; I just couldn't remember who made it).

dirty dan · « **Reply #17 on:** August 01, 2012, 12:36:12 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 01, 2012, 11:31:58 AM

The landing gear block is very close to the CG, with the legs tilted back, and I'm going to put in a mounting block for a tail wheel. Remove legs, swap sides, turn toe-out to toe-in, plug in the tail wheel -- voila.

While the following is a bit (just a little bit) tongue in cheek, this is precisely why Mark and I worry about you: Over-thinking everything!!

The majority of the time you fly from a rough grass field and are already planning for toe-in/toe-out adjustments to the wheels! My man, this can in fact be a consideration for prim and proper takeoffs and landings. But compared to the whole of building, powering, trimming and practicing the pattern, adjustments to toe are at the very bottom.

Along with being concerned that a control horn is two holes too long and ought be trimmed back to save weight. That chosen fuel tubing clashes with your trim scheme. Or the pin on your glow plug has some stain on one side.

Dan

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #18 on:** August 01, 2012, 01:49:40 PM »

Quote from: dirty dan on August 01, 2012, 12:36:12 PM

That chosen fuel tubing clashes with your trim scheme.
Dan

Uh I seem to remember some rather vivid colored fuel tubing on a certain dirt plane in years back,, chartruese perhaps,, though I am pretty sure it had nothing to do with color coordination, and more to do with making people wonder why there were two needle valves, three tanks, and only one wheel,, or something like that,,
.
But yeah, Tim, build it straight, reasonably finished, shrink wrap the wings, and fly the dagnabit thing, its a simple fast build, keep it that way,, do NOT do like I did and put a really really nice finish on the fuse,, just fill and lightly sand, paint, and fly fly fly,,

Dick Pacini · « **Reply #19 on:** August 01, 2012, 02:12:33 PM »

http://www.builtrightflyright.com/New_Web_Pgs/kits/FancherizedTwister/FTwister.htm

I have one of these kits, as well as a Sig Twister kit.

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #20 on:** August 02, 2012, 12:21:03 PM »

Quote from: dirty dan on August 01, 2012, 12:36:12 PM

The majority of the time you fly from a rough grass field and are already planning for toe-in/toe-out adjustments to the wheels! My man, this can in fact be a consideration for prim and proper takeoffs and landings. But compared to the whole of building, powering, trimming and practicing the pattern, adjustments to toe are at the very bottom.

They're also quick and easy, and can be deferred until one is actively flying off of pavement. Or done as a matter of course before or after each flying session, since the ground tends to tweak my LG nearly every time and if left alone leaves me with pidgin-toed airplanes.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #21 on:** August 02, 2012, 05:01:15 PM »

Tim, I had aluminium gear legs on my twister,, with 2.25 inch wheels,, The only grass I could not get off of was football feild grass and that was because it was so lush and thick I could not get any ground speed,,
My gear legs were designed so that by swapping left for right ( and right for left,,no I did not end up with both legs on one side,, sheesh) the gear was in optimum location for asphalt and when swapped it moved them forward about 3/4" which made for decent grass performance.. I am not a fan of wire gear on a utility practice, grass, learning airplane,,

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #22 on:** August 02, 2012, 05:11:16 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 02, 2012, 05:01:15 PM

Tim, I had aluminium gear legs on my twister,, with 2.25 inch wheels,, The only grass I could not get off of was football feild grass and that was because it was so lush and thick I could not get any ground speed,,
My gear legs were designed so that by swapping left for right ( and right for left,,no I did not end up with both legs on one side,, sheesh) the gear was in optimum location for asphalt and when swapped it moved them forward about 3/4" which made for decent grass performance.. I am not a fan of wire gear on a utility practice, grass, learning airplane,,

Cool idea. It's too late for this Twister, but presuming that I find out that I'm in the 90% that prefers taildragger gear, it's one that I can implement on damn near anything going forward.

Well -- until I start flying planes with wheel pants. Putting them on pointy-end-first may not look too good.

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #23 on:** August 02, 2012, 09:12:51 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 02, 2012, 05:11:16 PM

Cool idea. It's too late for this Twister, but presuming that I find out that I'm in the 90% that prefers taildragger gear, it's one that I can implement on damn near anything going forward.

Well -- until I start flying planes with wheel pants. Putting them on pointy-end-first may not look too good.

dude, really,, your worried about pointy ended wheel pants,, this from the guy who styled his stunter after a Waix,,, sigh,,
at that point pretty sure you wont be worried about changing your gear around when you get to the point of pants,, ( on the wheels dude, on the wheels) then you make two sets,, one with pants for asphalt,, and one without for off roading

Allen Brickhaus · « **Reply #24 on:** August 03, 2012, 06:17:45 AM »

Bill Allen will soon have his third submission of his Fancherized Twister in Control Line World published. Check him out on this.

Allen Brickhaus

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #25 on:** August 03, 2012, 09:15:47 AM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 02, 2012, 09:12:51 PM

this from the guy who styled his stunter after a Waix,,, sigh,,

Now what's the matter with semi-scale stunt?

dirty dan · « **Reply #26 on:** August 03, 2012, 11:37:21 AM »

While I truly hate to bring this up, were I building an entry-level Pukey Profile such as this and flew from a rough field it would be to the way-back machine for me: looking for proven ways to incorporate drop-off landing gear.

One sheet aluminum strut, one wheel, single socket for plug-in gear, just enough stiction to require a bump or inside loop to get rid of it. Might even fit it with provisions to lock it in place for the odd Asphalt Experience.

Dan

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #27 on:** August 03, 2012, 12:57:07 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 03, 2012, 09:15:47 AM

Now what's the matter with semi-scale stunt?

and its even piped,, and a twin at that

Joe Just · « **Reply #28 on:** August 03, 2012, 01:23:02 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 03, 2012, 12:57:07 PM

and its even piped,, and a twin at that

And it has a "Trike" LG! how could you go wrong?
Joe

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #29 on:** August 03, 2012, 04:25:41 PM »

and lots of side area to help in the overheads too!! man this is looking better and better,, so Tim, is this the direction you are going with your twister kit,, it has the right wing planform!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #30 on:** August 03, 2012, 04:34:09 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 03, 2012, 04:25:41 PM

and lots of side area to help in the overheads too!! man this is looking better and better,, so Tim, is this the direction you are going with your twister kit,, it has the right wing planform!

Hmm. Nah -- a T tail is too much work. Although, it would be a way to use the engines I have.

proparc · « **Reply #31 on:** August 03, 2012, 04:52:39 PM »

Quote from: Mark Scarborough on August 03, 2012, 12:57:07 PM

and its even piped,, and a twin at that

The problem with this plane, if you modeled it, you would be going into the stunt wars with a plane called the "Cri Cri".

Mark Scarborough · « **Reply #32 on:** August 03, 2012, 07:48:50 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on August 03, 2012, 04:34:09 PM

Hmm. Nah -- a T tail is too much work. Although, it would be a way to use the engines I have.

This from the guy who completely rebuilt an ARF ART ( already to fly )donor Flite streak,, to much work,,

oh yeah,, ok,, a T tail tomuch work

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #33 on:** September 02, 2012, 06:33:49 PM »

Quote from: Perry Rose on August 01, 2012, 04:46:58 AM

And hurry up.

OK, well, I'm failing at that. I seem to have lost August to a two-week business trip, recovering from the trip, trying to get caught up on all the work that didn't get done because of the trip, and getting distracted by a gift plane.

Got the control system done up today, though.

You'll note two tubing benders in there -- the first one put too small a radius on the tube, so it just wouldn't go in the bellcrank. The second opens things up a bit, and works better.

James D. Hayes · « **Reply #34 on:** September 02, 2012, 08:52:22 PM »

Tim, stick with the build thread, I'm finished with the S-1 and I'm taking a month off building to do more flying. But I have a twister sitting on my work bench with every intension of fancherizing it.

Jim Hayes
AMA 988835

ron young · « **Reply #35 on:** September 03, 2012, 06:43:24 AM »

I will be putter together a twister soon as well and will follow this thread closely.Cayou tell me about the benders were they came from are they single size specific,i have been looking not sure what to go with.
Thanks
Ron

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #36 on:** September 03, 2012, 09:34:41 AM »

Quote from: ron young on September 03, 2012, 06:43:24 AM

I will be putter together a twister soon as well and will follow this thread closely.Cayou tell me about the benders were they came from are they single size specific,i have been looking not sure what to go with.

The benders came from my lathe. The big one bends about a 1/4" inner radius, and is fixed to the OD (3/32") of the tubing. These are tight bends, on purpose because the bent tubing needs to clear the wing ribs (which I had to cut out a bit for fit).

DuBro has a tubing bender, but I don't know specifics.

I'm not sure where to send you to look for benders. Take a look at MicroMark, Amazon Supply (they used to be Small Parts; I don't know what they're like now -- http://www.amazonsupply.com/), and eBay. I just looked at MicroMark and Amazon and didn't see anything -- now I'm not sure what to say to you.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #37 on:** September 04, 2012, 05:48:35 AM »

Myself, I don't use benders to bend the tubing after it is on the cable. I run the torch until red hot and let it cool. Then cut to 1 or 1 1/4 inch lengths. Debur the ends and open the ends a little. Slide tubing over the cable to the position I want it, then put it thru the bellcrank hole and bend it after it is centered. Take needle nose or pliers and make it tear drop shape. On the leadouts or lines I wrap tubing around 1/8 inch drill bit or wire after inserting the cable. Then finish the way you want, wrap or swage.

Doug Knoyle · « **Reply #38 on:** September 05, 2012, 10:48:02 PM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on September 02, 2012, 06:33:49 PM

OK, well, I'm failing at that. I seem to have lost August to a two-week business trip, recovering from the trip, trying to get caught up on all the work that didn't get done because of the trip, and getting distracted by a gift plane.

Got the control system done up today, though.

You'll note two tubing benders in there -- the first one put too small a radius on the tube, so it just wouldn't go in the bellcrank. The second opens things up a bit, and works better.

Dude! Nice line-term ends!

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #39 on:** September 06, 2012, 01:08:31 PM »

Man, I love CA glue. At least until I start having breathing problems as a consequence of too much fast building with Hot Stuff and plenty of baking soda, in my teens.

Anyway, used in moderation...

Here's the center section, all built (and four more ribs in after I took the picture!). I had the clever notion of gluing up the two center ribs plus the bellcrank carrier all as a unit before gluing it into the wing. Que the Dragnet theme (dumb da dumb dumb). I got things put together backwards three times, each one saved by recognizing what I'd done before the CA set completely and quickly ripping it apart again. The two ribs weren't quite straight when I was done -- I would have been better off gluing in the bellcrank carrier after the fact, or at least using SigBond on the carrier-to-rib joints, so I could continue to adjust until the ribs were glued into the wing.

Also, here's a picture of the wing jig thingie I'm using. The Fancherized Twister plans show a leading- and trailing-edge jig; I just ran with that concept and made something that catches both LE and TE at once. It seems to work, except that the TE is so floppy I'm propping it up straight as I add in ribs. I do prefer music wire wing jigs, I do I do -- I just couldn't figure out how to make one work with the kit ribs.

Bill Little · « **Reply #40 on:** September 06, 2012, 02:50:54 PM »

HI Tim,

I hope you passed your lead outs through the Adj. L.O. guide before you finished off the outer ends....... ?

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #41 on:** September 06, 2012, 03:15:59 PM »

Quote from: Bill Little on September 06, 2012, 02:50:54 PM

HI Tim,

I hope you passed your lead outs through the Adj. L.O. guide before you finished off the outer ends....... ?

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH!

One custom adjustable LO guide, coming up.

(@#$%)

Dennis Moritz · « **Reply #42 on:** September 06, 2012, 03:20:26 PM »

IT'S A TWISTER! THE SIMPLEST FLAPPED PROFILE EVER DESIGNED!

Mike Griffin · « **Reply #43 on:** September 06, 2012, 05:36:51 PM »

Tim I guess I sound like a broken record but I hate CA glue. I didn't like what it did to my skin, my nose or my eyes. A couple of years ago, I spent a few days with Tom Morris to learn some things and one thing I learned from him is that he did not use CA glue at all. He uses Elmers white glue. I think there are a couple of places he might use epoxy but never CA. He even glues his wings in the fuselage with Elmers. After visiting him I started using Elmers and have never had a failure with it. It is cheap, non toxic and holds like you would not believe. I buy it by the gallon. Try it....you will like it.

Mike

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #44 on:** September 06, 2012, 05:46:11 PM »

Mike: Yes, I use SigBond a lot for that very reason. It's a bit better glue than white glue, and not all that more expensive.

But repetitive tasks like putting in wing ribs sure goes faster when your clamp is just your hand and a ten-count.

Dennis: I appear to be fixing that.

john e. holliday · « **Reply #45 on:** September 07, 2012, 08:25:44 AM »

If I remember right the Twister had a aconstant chord wing lay out. Very easy to drill/bore for rod jigs.

Bill Little · « **Reply #46 on:** September 07, 2012, 10:57:01 AM »

Quote from: Tim Wescott on September 06, 2012, 03:15:59 PM

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAGH!

One custom adjustable LO guide, coming up.

(@#$%)

HI Tim,

It might be possible to simply unwrap the ends. That could save a headache.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #47 on:** September 07, 2012, 12:56:41 PM »

John:

I wanted to see how things would come out with this jigging method. The answer: not as well as I'd like. In fact, I just whacked up a 1" square finishing board to prop up the trailing edge evenly, because it was all wiggly before. Fortunately, it seems to not be very rigid, so I think the trailing edge structure will hold it all nicely once it's done.

Bill:

Thanks for that observation. I have 100% faith that I would have thought of that -- after I'd done all the work on some weird split adjustable LO guide and failed to get it aligned in final assembly once or twice. In theory it should be easy to get things re-done, since the LO wire will be kinked and curved in all the right places, and will just need to be re-wrapped. I think you just saved me a hunk of time and trouble.

Bill Little · « **Reply #48 on:** September 07, 2012, 02:46:45 PM »

Hi Tim,

I have done that once before. I was updating an older model and adding an Adj. guide.

SO far I have been lucky on assembly of new models.

BIG Bear
RNMM/AMM

Tim Wescott · « **Reply #49 on:** September 11, 2012, 06:16:31 PM »

I just got the trailing edge finished, and the top spars put in. Soon I'll get the left wingtip finished, then I'll have nothing to save me from undoing those nicely finished ends so I can put the adjustable leadout together.

Author Topic: Fancherized Twister Build (Read 56472 times)

Mike Griffin

Joe Just

Mike Griffin