I don't have pictures but I used triangle shaped gusset stock running behind the engine firewall (tank area). And glued a balsa block between the motor mounts in the tank area.

Shug

I guess its time to open the box an do something...

In my opinion, you don't need a 4 inch bell crank in a Nobler.

I have been flying two ARF Noblers with great success. Use  triangular shaped gussets from the bottom of the motor mounts to the firewall.Place triangle stock in tank compartment where firewall touches fuse sides. Fuel proof engine mounting area and tank compartment with thinned epoxy. Use a fiberglass pushrod and trash can the stock clevises.Use quality R/C stuff or ball links. My stock lead outs and bell crank seem to be fine. Also the stock clunk tank used with muffler pressure works well for me. Both of my planes are .40 powered .One has an OS.40 FSR with tongue muffler,the other an HP.40. Both use 6mm venturi with APC 10.5x4.5 props. I fly on 61' lines eyelet to eyelet with Rayco handle.
Both of my planes use 3/4 ounce of tip weight and both required between 25 to 28 grams of lead mounted on the base of the rudder. I would suggest that you mount the canopy in a way that it is removable so that you can get to the flap horn to make trim adjustments. I also used rubber servo grommets on the holes that attach the cowling . I found no problems with the landing gear. Both of the planes weigh in around 42 to 43 ounces and both fly very nicely.Pay attention to alignment of components and you won't be disappointed. PhillySkip

Chris, you're welcome, and glad I could be of help.One other thing, pay careful attention to your flap horn to  pushrod length. On the elevator horn I used a "fixed" (soldered) clevis,but on the flap end I used an adjustable clevis. I'm glad I did because both of my planes needed me to go into the cockpit area to adjust flap to elevator "neutral".

How do you guys use an incident meter on the wing once the flaps are installed? I guess I should ask how do you make the flaps level to use an incident meter?

Chris one more thing....the covering Top Flite uses on the ARF Nobler is not "real" Monokote as it can't be tightened using the same amount of heat you would use when working with "real Monokote" .I suspect it might be "Econokote". If you try to fix loose covering with high heat you'll be very sorry. Also, the color is different than the Sapphire Monokote they suggest repairing it with. You can use "real Monokote over it but applied at much lower temperature.....PhillySkip

I wonder if they didn't change things along the way,  cause mine has updates that are changes from original plans, relief cuts already in the wing an stab for the horns. My covering I cranked up the iron like I use on regular Monokote an it was fine, it tightened right up.

Chris, what motor are you going to use in it?

Carl

Try this prop with the 46: APC 12x.25 x 3.75 also with the 46 you may want to use 65' lines center of handle to center of plane....Cheers ,PhillySkip

Try this prop with the 46: APC 12x.25 x 3.75 also with the 46 you may want to use 65' lines center of handle to center of plane....Cheers ,PhillySkip

Ive used this prop on my Shoestring with a LA46, its a nice prop for sure!

Looks like you're doing a fine job assembling your Nobler. With the proper mods (as you are doing) these planes fly great. Don't be shy about adding weight to the tail .It's critical in getting the ship to turn properly.....PhillySkip

Leadouts done, I don't have the skill to make a cowl so the original will have to do. Pretty much all together , just have to put some decals on an find a entertaining pilot somewhere.

That's about as nicely done as a Nobler ARF can be. Good work.

My old Nobler beater is the only one I've ever flown and it was(busted now) a very good pattern plane, the next best to my beater Cardinal ARF that I fly this season. But I don't know how much difference is in the planes or how much is me. I'll find out pretty soon because I have another Nobler ARF half way put together, waiting for the Twister project that's dragging along at the almost-finished stage.

Looking forward to seeing your Nobler fly.
Rusty

Thanks Rusty! How's it going?  That Twister looks good!  I have one to build this winter with a Banshee, what all did you modify?

Going good, Chris. I only added more bracing to the bellcrank, and it needed nothing more. This is a Walter Umland kit, builtrightflyright.com. It comes with the 2 piece fuselage already extended and ready to be laminated. Also the half ribs, shear webs, ball link CF control rods, triplers for on both sides of the nose with recessed tank and engine, adj. leadouts, weight box, etc. Looks like it's going to be near 40 ounces, so I'm going to use an fp.35.

Boy that looks like a real nice kit actually. Looking good Rusty!

That's a sweet looking plane you're building Rusty. I bought a really nice Sig Twister rtf with an O.S. .35FP for $30.00 from a fellow R/C club member back in the 80's when I was a teenager. It was my first .35 size stunt ship and to me (stepping up from 1/2A and .15 size) it was like flying a Cadillac with the power of a Ferrari! I couldn't believe the pull on the lines and the smoothness of the controls! I was instantly hooked on the .35-.40 size ships. I learned how to do basic stunt with it before it met it's expiration date. Then from there, it was all Ringmasters, Shoestrings, Flite Streaks and later a Sky Ray. Seeing this thread as well as the other Twisters makes me want another one. I also have a Nobler ARF ready to fly with an O.S. .40LA that I converted to C/L from R/C. Hopefully I'll get a chance to fly it sometime soon. But I'm going to beef up the engine mount as suggested here first. Here is a pic of my Nobler hanging up in my shop.

Shawn

Shawn, that sounds so much like me.
Chris, I hope you're okay with us hijacking your thread about reinforcing Nobler motor mounts.

I was a lone 1/2A guy all my life, and when forums came to be, I learned how to make bladder fed Tee Dees and Norvels, breathing near deamonic life into my Flite Streaks and Stuntman 23s, and you know all the rest. In 2012 I didn't even know 35 planes existed till my 45' lines outgrew the churchyard across from my house and joined an RC club that was totally entertained with my freestyle screaming looping babys. In 2013 I met a re-treaded CL guy with a B-.40 powered Tutor who told me about Stunt, acquired a wrecked Goldberg Shoestring and never looked back. Entered my first contest and was given a Skyray that I flew into Intermediate and some extra engines that I still use. It's been the most fun I've ever had in my adult life. I finally managed a 1st place in Intermediate, but still don't belong in Advanced, and I want this Twister to be the tool that helps me get there. My body is failing fast, so my life goal is to Belong in Advanced, at any level, low or medium, it matters not.
Here she is as of last night. Got some cool colorful decals for it:

Shawn, that sounds so much like me.
Chris, I hope you're okay with us hijacking your thread about reinforcing Nobler motor mounts.

I was a lone 1/2A guy all my life, and when forums came to be, I learned how to make bladder fed Tee Dees and Norvels, breathing near deamonic life into my Flite Streaks and Stuntman 23s, and you know all the rest. In 2012 I didn't even know 35 planes existed till my 45' lines outgrew the churchyard across from my house and joined an RC club that was totally entertained with my freestyle screaming looping babys. In 2013 I met a re-treaded CL guy with a B-.40 powered Tutor who told me about Stunt, acquired a wrecked Goldberg Shoestring and never looked back. Entered my first contest and was given a Skyray that I flew into Intermediate and some extra engines that I still use. It's been the most fun I've ever had in my adult life. I finally managed a 1st place in Intermediate, but still don't belong in Advanced, and I want this Twister to be the tool that helps me get there. My body is failing fast, so my life goal is to Belong in Advanced, at any level, low or medium, it matters not.
Here she is as of last night. Got some cool colorful decals for it:

Hey whatever floats yinzes boat, or flys your airplanes! 

Chris,

You might want to get a lighter spinner ie. a plastic/al BP from Tower and use a wood prop. Personally I used an 11 X 4 Xoar or Vess. Can't remember where I got them but I'm sure an on line search will turn up something.

The LA 46 is a good engine for this plane and can be made to run the pattern on 3-1/2, 3-3/4 oz of fuel.

Also the stock LG is 1" to short. (I know I'm going to get some flak for this) The Green Box Nobler , which this is a copy has a pre bent LG and it is 1" longer than the one in the TF ARF kits. When the plans were drawn they shortened it to save paper (I believe) and that's why the shorter LG IMHO!

Let us know how it flies, Jerry

PS: I also radial mounted mine.

PPS: I've had three GBN's and the LG was the same in all of them.

Hi, but I like my cool spinner I ended up bending new gear but I made it 1/2 longer, looks like it will clear before I start chewing dirt with the prop.

You put radial tires on yours (white walls out?)

Well I finally put the finishing touches on it. Hopefully I'll get a chance to try it out this weekend. Fingers crossed.

Swap the spinner with a Great Planes plastic and make sure your props are really well balanced. Run at least 22% oil by volume with those bushed OS engines. You did use lots of epoxy gluing that whole motor mount beam front to back, wing to fuselage and tail, right?
I think those soft motor mounts and that big, heavy spinner could be a problem if for the some reason they have a bad harmonic. Easy to check by swapping the prop and spinner. Gotta balance stuff, for sure.
Chris...

The spinner was the first thing to go,  I just have a prop nut for now. I've tried a few props from working airplanes too. It was a ARF so the motor mounts were already attached, I tried beefing them up though.  Even just beefed them up some more so I'll have to try it again.  It feels like all 4 mounting screws are loose when it's in the air. Weird.

They probably are loose after running a few minutes. When (if) you go to a radial mount (RC type), you will smell the wood and it is very different than ours. Totally stinks AFAIC!

With a radial mount you'll need to add a second 1/8" fire wall. I no longer have my Nobler (ARF) or I'd post some pictures.

Another thing I did was to use the "smaller" venturi from an LA 25. It's 6 MM.

Tight lines, Jerry